Intro
  The long running Fiat 128A (1290 cc @ 73hp - 6000rpm) and 138A-B (1498cc @ 85hp - 6000 rpm)  motors also were produced in 1116cc are unusually short stroke unstressed engines with their wedge shape combustion chamber and two valves in an iron block are pretty rough ordinary engines compared to the Jap engines today. Bores ran from 80 to 86.4mm and strokes from 55 to 63.9mm with 8.5:1 comp using basically the same camshaft for all models in USA (Euro/Aussie versions slightly different in cam, carb, comp, etc). The same engine is still basically in production in other Fiat models today.
  One could reason that the water cooled  Z1300 cc Kawasaki 6 cylinder motorcycle engine would be better with its 120hp at 8,000 rpm and light weight. Regardless, the X19 motors can be tuned to the same state of performance at resonable cost and reliability, being simple to work on with basic tools. Unitary gearbox/diff is also straight forward, as are the single piston (non servo) disc brakes and calipers, electrics are well protected with relay systems requiring replacement of relays or ensuring earth wires have good contacts. Body shell is very basic weighing in at 880 kg and easy to repair, rust usually in sills, lower doors, windscreen frame as a result of the chrome trim trapping dirt and moisture. Suspension is fully independent McPherson strut and easy to refit. Emission controls contrary to opinions, have little effect on a perfomance, since manufactures detune motors by restrictive exhausts to increase back pressure and retard ignition timing close to 0 degTDC which has the effect of increasing nitrous oxides and less sulpher/gas emissions, and sluggish cams that have little overlap to contain the burning period (hence the catalyctic converter can scrub oxides from modern systems, when you see flames from racing car exhaust, this indicates a big overlap cam as both inlet and exhaust valves are open flowing raw fuel vapor into a hot exhaust) charcol canisters do nothing except collect raw fuel vapor, air pumps only add air to the exhaust manifold to reburn any soot particles or fuel. Ideal X19 cruising speed is 100 to 130km with motors lasting 100,000.

Specs not in the Manual: 
  Clearances approx. (stock) Piston to Head = 0.040" plus (+) compressed head gasket 0.050" (total squish clearance 0.080/090", Inlet valve to Piston =3mm+; Exhaust =4mm+, combustion chamber volume 50cc, cam timing stock 12-52/52-12 @ 0.050 lift (seat-seat 18-62/62-18 Fiat rate lift @0.020), cam timing add (advance) one tooth=17-45/45-17 @ 0.050" lift; one tooth less (retard) = 7-62/62-7 @0.050" lift; less tappet lash =higher valve lift and earlier (longer) opening;  ignition timing (static) 8-10deg (use less with porting and high comp. although some use higher), Static Comp ratio 9:1, Dynamic Comp ratio @6000 rpm 10:1 est., distributor advance 28-38deg, total advance 50deg approx, 1500 block 8mm taller than 1300. Block tunnels expand 0.0005" and pistons expand up to 0.001" at normal temp,  preferred RON 95- 97 gas. Stock Pistons are semi racing type, Valve pocket clearance 0.120" side clearance can be reduced to approx 0.80" clearance. 

1. Basic Stock Tune Up.
  Gap plugs @ .025 file earth electrode back to expose flash, index plugs to point flash on piston crown by adding washers,  points gap @ .014, advance 5-12deg @ 850 RPM then set idle to 1000 RPM, 40/70 SAE Oil, change filter every 2,500 kms. run higher gearbox/diff oil level (install elbow). Add a radiator oil with coolant not glycol which breaks down to an corrosive alkalai. Adjust or rejet  carby to specs or slightly rich. Tyre pressure 25-28 psi. Tappet lash .010/.012  inlet/exhaust. Check distributor fully advanced at 3000 RPM. Add free flow air filter.

2. Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres, Gearbox.
Getting around the corners.
  6" x 13" with 60 profile tyres or 50s with 205 front 225, rear Bridgstone Eagers 340/330 with a width of 215/235. Or 13" front with 14" rear, Also I have seen fitted 15" with low 40 or 35 profile may fit but harsh, 70s profile softer running than 40s, (delete rear hub spacer on wide tyres), camber change by slotting lower strut top hole by up to 5mm and packing wedge, machine brakes dics flat with semi-metalic pads (or fit Fiat Uno ventilated)  Alfa 33Ti disc/calipers can be custom fitted, master cylinder peddle rod adjust (weld adjusting nut for zero+ play, same with clutch), Some Fiat Regata parts same as X19.
  Lowering by spring resetting is best, front strut bracket can be rewelded about 40mm up the strut. Stock strut gas refills are adequate, anti roll bars are usefull in extreme cases but both front & rear MUST be fitted. Avoid hard or harsh supensions, they just are not worth the trouble. Ratio change from 70s to 60s profile tyres is about a 5% lower gearing with 50s about 8% lower,  so take off and acceleration will be better with not much loss on top end since motor can rev higher.

Tire and Suspension Handling Chart

Decrease UNDERSTEER	Decrease OVERSTEER	ADJUST
Higher	Lower	Front tire pressure
Lower	Higher	Rear tire pressure
Larger	Smaller	Front tire section
Smaller	Larger	Rear tire section
More Neg	More Pos	Front camber
More Pos	More Neg	Rear camber
Toe-out	Toe-In	Font Toe
Toe-In	Toe-Out	Rear Toe
More Pos	More Neg	Front caster
Soften	Stiffen	Front spring
Stiffen	Soften	Rear spring
Smaller	Larger	Front roll bar
Larger	Smaller	Rear roll bar

  Stock front caster is about 7deg, camber 0deg, toein 3mm (racing neg 5-7deg camber and 5mm toein) and rear camber  2deg with toein 3mm gives optimum tyre wear. Wide tires need less camber. Rim width is critical to reduce sidewall rolling.
  Gearbox, mainly front bearings only need changing, I run straight Lucus polymer oil in the gearbox, it needs one or two minutes warm up and careful gear selection, but runs quiet. 4 speed has better ratios than 5 speed, however 5 speed with 60s profile tyres is better cruising combination. I am ordering a set of T6 13 x 7 alloy rims with a wall thickness of 0.160" (3mm), they weigh 4 kilos, with a set of  Hoozier 225 x 60 rear, 185 x 60 front medium compound tyres, I'll let you know the results. 

3. 1300 Overhaul "Saturday Night Special".
A Quick No Fuss Rebuild 
Head: Stock inlet valves, triple cut seats, radius valve edges, stock exhaust valves, radius the back of valves, seat width .080", stock inlet valve protrude or oversize slightly sunken, lash .010/.012", equalise valve springs first, then add shim one extra washer under old valve springs check for coil bind, dress and round all edges on port chambers, lightly hand emery paper (800 grit) the valve seat ridges. For ports I used wood boring bit and bored out 29-31 mm inlet port (equal of course), dress exhaust porting (sand finish 300 grit), stcck camshaft  set  advance (one tooth on belt), match all gaskets, mill flywheel circumference to 7kg total. 
Block: Run stock compression, Bore minimum or just hone to 45deg cross hatch to 10-12 micro inches, Mill deck 0.020-0.025" (or leave as stock) and skim head (or use 0.5mm copper gasket), fly cut old stock pistons for inlet valve if required, combustion chamber dress and round square edges, Linish flashing off con rods and buff, crack test under UV light for rods and weigh equal on a balance beam (make one up), I don't even bother with this. Piston to bore clearance 0.003-004", add new rings, check ring back clearance and end gap to 0.003" (ring sunken to piston surface) Stock bearings 0.002" mains and big ends clearance, thrust 0.004 - 6, add a few washers  under oil pump relief spring for 85 psi pressure or strech spring 6mm, ignition 8-12 deg advance, single carb 34 DMTR or 28/36 or 32/36 rejeted Weber, stock inlet manifold reamed to 30mm, 1974 mod exhaust twin headers reamed to 30mm. Head and all bolts tension 3 step stock  sequence on buffed & oiled threads and re-check next day. Distributor total advance 32/38 deg BTDC or less on poor fuel, 
  Keyhole crank oil outlets and drill extra holes in shells, Install a free flow cotton air filter or make one (200mm dia type) with cold air induction, Run engine at lower thermostat tempature of approx 75-85 C. Use stock items to save costs. Summary, a good warm street engine, probally close to 100HP for 1300cc or 110HP for 1500cc. Run in for 2 hours.
Build time, one long weekend, I originally just bored the stock inlet to 30mm on a stock motor with a very noticable performance increase and better rpms, most petrol heads think this is just to simple, but it works.

4. "Cafe Racer" aspirated Fiat 1300/1500/1600.
A Serious Performer
  Porting formula 0.82 of valve size, Valve dia formula (inlet) 0.47 and 0.35 (exhaust) of piston dia, combustion chambers cc within a 0.5cc tolerance, each piston height within 0.005". 
Select a 1500 block in preference, since con rods are forged steel running on a stroked 63.9mm crank and cost per result is more dramatic. The 1300 should give 115hp or more and 1500 about 130 hp at the flywheel, I used a 1300 block bored to 87mm,  stock ignition system without any problems although a crank angle sensor to fire a computorised ignition is probally the ultimate.

Example of Custom specs.

	Bore	Stroke	Chanber cc	Gasket thickness	Deck Height	Valve Pocket	Comp Ratio
Stock	3.38" (86mm)	2.19" (55mm)	45-50	0.040"	-0.050"	5cc	8.5:1
1320	3.427" (87mm)	"	30	0.020"	flush	5cc	9.7:1
	"	"	25	"	"	"	11:1
	"	"	20	"	"	"	12.8:1
1500	"	2.252" (63.9mm)	30	"	"	"	10:1
	"	"	25	"	"	"	11.3:1
	"	"	20	"	"	"	13.4:1

  HEAD: same as item 3, added Datsun 260Z inlet valves dressed to 40mm and stems cut to size with collets recut, triple cut valve seat inserts to 70/45/30deg, weld dead side of combustiaon chamber to heart shape, reduce cc to about 30-32cc for about 10-1 comp, bore both ports to about 30mm, use stock cam, I reground inlet cam lobe for 0.415 - 0.420" lift (10.5mm) by grinding base circle, which gave a timing of 33-72 inlet and 52-12 exhaust.
  Duration 285deg (inlet), 244 (exhaust est.), Bore can be taken out to 87mm (1322cc),  Timing belts come in 118, 116, 114 teeth depending on adjustment tensioner. Chamfer all bolt holes as these generally have a slight raising from being tensioned, thus ensuring best mating surface, emery block all surfaces to gaskets for no oil leaks and apply thin non hardening gasket cement.
 

Custom Camshaft Specs

	Inlet	Exhaust
Lift	0.417"	0.375"
Duration@0.020	285 deg	stock
Overlap	45 deg	24 deg
Opening	33 BTDC	52 BBDC
Closing	72 ABDC	12 ATDC
Lash	0.015"	0.015"

Note: I suspect this cam should run 5deg retarded for best results, as it would give a little extra exhaust blow down time, however I suspect the early exhaust closeing reduces exhaust draw back on overrun. Any cam with 290 deg duration will give a rough idle.

  BLOCK: After milling ALWAYS wash with soap and pressure water block and spray WD-40 inside all over. Use Fiat thin Head Gasket, use stock flat top pistons (final comp. will be more after head work is fine for 97 PON fuel (104+ octane booster if comp ratio is over 11:1), use special gapless rings or gap rings to 0.003" (all engines need 0.0001 gap per 1" dia on moving parts),  squish clearance 0.035-0.045", (or use a 0.5mm copper gasket, I milled 0.025" off the deck, so piston protrudes half gasket thickness) full balance everything from flywheel to pulley,  relief chamfer around inlet valve combustion chamber out to the fire ring, only dress rods flashing ridge, radius bolt/cap corners, 4 -1 extractors 35mm OD dia primaries x 400-800mm long into a 50 or75mm exhaust with a flow thru muffler, I am now making a 12" 4-1 extractors into a 3" collector.
  Twin 32/32mm (or single 34/34 or 32/36 DMTR Webers rejeted is better, hand hone all carb internals for better flow), add a carb bakerlite block raiser 50mm and radius underside, lighten stock flywheel to 5 kilos up to 7,000RPM or steel over this, I use an 2.5 kg 5683 grade alloy flywheel, semi metalic clutch facings on standard clutch, forget racing clutches (to harsh and bitey), run water temp at 60-80deg C with/without  water thermostat (blank off by-pass), run cold air induction thru 100mm flexible plasic tub from side vents, fit alloy/fibre heat shield deflector between carbs and exhaust, ignition solid copper wire, Redline 1300 to 7/7,500 rpm (critical at 7,500 to 8,000), 1500 to 8,500rpm. For advance carbs set up use 36mm twin DCNs, although twin 32s or 32/36s progressive opening are better to maintain high air velocity, 40 DCOE not worth the hassel on road cars since you will never get them to run on the main jets under 5000 hence low volocety/atomisation will give poor performance and economy. Later 1500 use fuel injection. 1500 cam has higher inlet lift at 9.25mm. Road test, back off timing until no pinging, run in for 100 miles at 3-5000 rpm in stop start traffic (not long country run). First oil/filter change at 100 miles, I always open up the oil filter to see if metal is deposited, new engine will have some, but, later should be none. 

Example of Usable HP increase @ 4000 to 6500 rpm

Item	1300	1500
Stock Rated HP	75	85
Cotton Air Filter	4	4
Carb 26/27 choke	8	10
30mm Manifold	2	2
30mm Ports	3	3
Triple cut seats	3	3
40mm Inlet Valves	3	4
Highlift cam	2	3
10.5:1 Comp	5	6
Balancing/weight	2	2
0.0035" squish	1	1
Extractors 4-1	2	2
87mm cyl bore	1.5	2
Ignition/timing	1.5	1
Free flow muffler	2	2
100kg weight reduction	5	5
Cold Air/70deg Water	1	1
TOTAL	121	133

  Summary, a real flyer at  DIY prices. Add radical 300 or 310 deg duration cam if you want a race motor, but this motor is in the outlaw class at 6-7000 rpm and gauranteed to get you booked. Build time 4 weeks. Last note, I previously used stock 32/32 Weber with secondary choke bored out to 25mm and drill the main jet to about 1.3 to 1.5mm, idle jet about 0.8mm (no primary choke changes), extend the link arm on the valve cover 10mm, then I fitted a 34 Weber off a Lancia 2000 (per table) with enormous improvement to a 1300cc motor and no problems.
 

Weber 34/34mm-200-15-N6
Downdraft progressive opening

	Primary	Secondary
Choke Size	24mm	27mm
Main Jet	120	150
Transfer Jet	50	90
Emulsion Tube	F30	F30
Air Corrector	110	240

An internal combustion engine needs approx 57mm choke diametr to produce 130hp 60mm for 140hp etc, hence over size carbs will not achieve any better results, 300deg cam for race.

I have personally built this motor and it will close to most small V8s and the average Yogi Bear on a week end. It will blow the doors off any 2.5litre sedan/car or bigger. Recently it equalled a BMW 2.5ltr 6cly.
Torque between 2500 to 4000 is better than stock and power from 4000 to 7000 excellent for a street car, in fact the motor will now over rev past redline easily (I had a stuck throttle in third giving a V8 a hard time at 6,500 when it over reved past  8000rpm and held together).

Speed Calibtations (actual & simulated)

1320cc/4	Computer	Car Tacho/Speedo	Tyre Dia (mm)	Tyre Dia (mm)
-	-	-	564 (13 x 235 x 50)	600 (13 x 225 x 60)
1st & 2nd	-	-	-	-
3rd Gear (1.454:1)	5500/98.636 Km	5500	98 Km (60 mph)	104 Km
-	6500	n/t	116 Km	124 Km
4th Gear (0.959:1)	5500/159.094 Km	5500/140 Km	149 Km (92 mph)	159 Km
-	6500	n/t	176 Km+	188 Km*
5th Gear (0.863:1)	5500	n/t	166 Km	176 Km
-	6500	n/t	196 Km*	208 Km *

These computer figures are acurate (car speedo shows up to 10Kmh error), N/T means not tested in car, only computer model, RPM x gear ratio x tyre dia = speed, 5th gear not fitted. *Unlikely due to increase wind drag. +Believed possible with this tyre ratio (110mph).

5. Supercharging "Fireball" option.
Supercharge or Turbo, that is the question.
   An engine uses air linear to its rpm, superchargers supply linear air, turbo's don't. 
Turbo's on X19s short stroke motors are very fiddly and don't suit the home DIY engineer, as detonation control is too complex, restrictive exhaust is a must to stop the turbo over charging the engine with blown head gaskets, piston melts, etc. Essentially small turbos = small boost with fast spool up, big turbos = big boost and slower spool up, all run at insane speeds, enormous heat, require warm up and cool down times and costly to fix. Paxton and Vortex type are only belt driven turbos. Turbo's generate volume square to the engine rpm (supercharges generate air volume linear to rpm), namely, if you set max boost at redline the turbo will be under boost anywhere else,  5psi is its max before air mass heating and intercoolers are required. They need more maintence and have oil baking problems. Probally the easiest way to  turbocharging a X19 is simply transplant a Fiat Uno and then fiddle with the exhaust efficency, reduce back pressure, delay the waste gate opening to gain higher boost.

  I believe Supercharging is easier by positive induction and no intercooling required with boost from idle lower rpms upwards, less plumbing, Geared directly to the engine in its stock form with no basic changes needed on a 8.5:1 motor, stock cam will suit also,  (add thicker gasket or mill combustion chambers with drill and rotary burr). Best of all you get real torque from idle upwards, and in small engines all the torque you can get is better than hp. 50-60% hp increase is practicle and reliable. To fit one you will have to make up alloy tubes and flanges for a manifold, brackets and drive belts, pulleys, bolt any type of carbie in front of the supercharger, use extractors for exhaust efficiency.
  Eaton, Shorrock and Wimpple are true  superchargers,  can be under or over driven, (ie 1:1 is equal, 1:2 is over driven, 2:1 is under driven etc), about 30% overdrive seems the norm. British MGs and others in the 30s - 50s proved the advantages of supercharging small engines (ie. MG 1100s with 3 bearing cast iron cranks running at 6000rpm were race winners up to 250mph). Boost can be controlled by flow back above the inlet manifold with throttles in front of the supercharger. Superchargers have more usable power, less heat, better mpg, ready at all times, less maintenace and longer service and contary to opinion do not use much hp to run them. You will need colder plugs and know how to read them and accurate timing. 
  Supercharging is all about increasing cubic capacity by cramming more fuel/air into a given space, namely ramming 2.5 litres of air into 1.5litres, so theoretically its a 2.5 litre motor depending on boost.
  I've seen only one supercharged X19 motor and claimed 135 hp on the dyno at the rear wheels at 5,500 rpm, Any X19 with 120-150 hp supercharger torque on tap in a light body is real competition to any one and will 'blow the doors off' a stock Ferrrari. There are many small Jap superchargers around, Ferrari was getting something like 500hp out of a 1500cc supercharged motor before the F1 rules changed, but they sometimes only lasted the qualifying round.
  Rootes type are bsically air blowers not air compressors. Read the book on MG racing cars.

6. Ultra Hot "Off Street Racer"
Burning money to win.
First any engine delivering 140 hp will use 0.67 litres of fuel per minute, physics of engineering state you basically need 57mm throttle opening to get 140 hp, 60mm for 150 and so on, head gaskets at 10:1 have 25%  less life than 9:1, at 11:1 25%  less again, at 12:1 they just dont last, so there are natural limitations, race engines are lucky to get past 20,000 miles..
 Well,  so you want to race a X19, for a start there is NO comparison between a hot street car  and racing car which simply cannot be driven on the street and motors will be stuffed within 5000 miles, although I have not done this, here are some extra tips.
Engine and vehicle preparation is absolute to being competative and attention to detail within the class rules and saftey. These tips may not comply with rules.
  Additional engine mods may include lighter pistons with combustion chambers cc'ed down to 20 or 25cc for 12.5 to 13:1 (gasket wont last), closer squish gap, piston pins of chrome moly wall thichness of 0.130", oil port the piston pins in piston and gudgen pin, gas ported rings, ring gaps 0.004" top 0.006" second, run tight ring side clearance, harder bearings, H beam  rods (not alloy as they stretch) silicon valves, bronze valve guides, titanium valve retainers, thin copper head gaskets, dry sumps, windage trays, oil coolers, wide cam belt and alloy pulleys, lightened milled crank, ultra radical cams 310deg, twin plate clutch, straight cut gears in transmission, chrome-molly suspension arms, rose joints, tubed guards, sticky rubber tyres, seam welded chasis for rigidity, chop tops, glass fibre gaurds,  bonnet, boot, floors, roll cage, motec system, perspex screen, vented discs from a Fiat Uno, lower springs, trash can everything not needed, well the list goes on and on. Head air flow is critical to success and chasis tuning. You will need 3 motors, 2 gearboxes 8 wheels and so forth.
  I suggest any one taking up racing to buy a book called FAZA/STRADA for details, use Ross Pistons, Kryponite rods and cranks, Hooziers Tyres, Isky cams, aero dynamic kit to control underbody air flow and front down force, glass fibre panels from Body parts Unlimited, PBS custom bits,  to name a few. 

7. Cheap Mods, Replacements & Transplants.
  A lot of parts are available from other Fiats, ie 128, Uno's, Lancia's, Alfa's, some Ferrari's, also many new or remanufactured parts, panels and performance gear is available. Much of the performance gear is over rated and expensive, see Garage equip. Heads from 128/X19  1100, 1300,1500 are same castings only different valves, 1100 block can't be bore out, stick with 1300 and bore or 1500. 1500 block is taller. 
  Blocks can be rebored 3 times in .010" sizes, All cranks same with 1100/1300 and can be reground 3 times in .0010 and 0.020" bearing sizes, 1500 cranks are stroked, camshafts should out wear 2-3 engine rebuilds, 1500 rods are longer than 1300 and are forged steel.
  Four speed gearbox has better ratios, most Webber carbs are interchangable parts, Webber 32 and 34 venturies can be bore and rejetted. Rubber suspension bushes can be replaced with nylon/poly type machined to size, Rear ball joints can be un-riveted and repaired. Steering racks last for centuries, gearbox bearings SKF or Timkin same with seals, gear box mostly needs new bearings and easy job, cluster syncro (baulking rings) expensive and tricky to assemble, gearboxes last better with higher oil level and average driving, door seals from Pirelle, CV joints easy and cheap to change (trick is to get the circlip out by unthreading and ripping it out), struts can be refilled or overhauled, however on some sealed units you will have to hacksaw the top off and reweld a piece of exhaust tube over the join, springs re-tempered and reset, radiator hoses from Mitsubishi TN TP 2.6L bottom hose cut to length, water pipes in copper or PVC, engine mounts can be made from large rubber bungs,  Rear A frame are expensive and can be re-built or made up out of alloy. Many things can be rebuilt by the home mechanic.
  Engine transplants are not worth the cost, time, trouble for DIY since a well tuned and developed 1500 will give 130-150 hp. I've heard guys talking 250 and 300 hp which some nut pot a 3litre in an X19 is out side the logic of earthlings, these guys have been watching too many Martian movies, besides that sort of power could not be effectivly put on the pavement for any useful purpose in an X19, power is only useful if it can be utilized. 
  These type of mods really are in the 'Show Car' category. Simple mods that work are the most satisfying. I drive my car every day in the 3000 to 5000 rpm 75-80% of the time, occassionally I give it the hammer but mostly around town its more than adequate. I also go to the Club shows. Its 99% reliable.

8. Things that go wrong.
  Fortunatly not much, unless poor maintenance is the result. all cars need regular attention but here is a short list. Window winders are frustrating, new cable can be wound on and solder the lugs, then wind up the cable and fit spool, carefully thread over rollers and tighten, or insert a 6" spreader in the diagonal section and pull together and clamp or tie wire ends.
  Over heating, due mostly from combustion gas leakage, install multi core radiator, add bigger filler tank, renew all gaskets by emery paper dressing each surface,  clean with thinners then assemble with aviation gasket cement, add fan overide manual switch. Oil leaks result from gasket breakdown and age, Oil burning mainly due to oil stem seal becoming hard and ineffective and out of round bore. Noise due to excessive valve lash and piston slap (doesn't harm engine) . Brake sloppiness due to expanding flexible hoses and uneven surface of discs which is fixed by machining, reduce peddle slack by rebuilding peddle box and add 5mm to master cylinder shaft, wheel noise from CV joint, gearbox rattle results from low oil and too thin (add filler extension by 25mm elbow and use 85/140 SAE, allow few minutes to warm up for good gear change). 
  Wiring is very well protected by fuses and relays (if you can understand the circuites), radiator needs bleeding every 6 months and change main cooler pipes to stainless or copper (exhaust supplier). Body rust doors and sills mainly and front screen surround, only option is bare metal and fibre glass or weld in sheet metal, treat with fish oil. Glass fibre panels available from Bodyparts Unlimited.
  Brake and clutch master cylinders, best undo the steering dash mount, swing away, unbolt peddle box and take out to work on, hone bores and renew seals, blow out lines and bleed.

9. V6 Project "viva la Ferrari".
  Yes, I am definately starting this project, more later, this will be costly but I think worth it, why not the Monte Carlo has a V8, and some small Alfa's got a V6, seems feasable according to the measurments.

  Well, here is the news, its already been done. A 3 litre V6 Alfa motor in an X19. See Auto Italia Magazine No 5, 7th May 2001 page 58 or GoTo www.auto-italia.co.uk it is a 240kph car with a 0-100kph in 4 sec. running 16 inch rims. A real Porche killer and probally will do the same for the driver.

10. Interiors and Upholstering, Painting.
  Most interior work is replacing carpets, linings, door skins fabrication and coverings, head lining for the roof, seat covers by an upholster. The biggest down side is stripping the dash and building a new one or having the old one re-skinned, the dash is easy to remove with instrument cluster taped in place to drive around while work is being done. Front/rear boots generally get carpet and more sound deading on floors and rear firewall. All electrical run up the centre tunnel including piping, cables and hoses.
  Spay painting acrylic solid colours is easy, metal flakes and pearls hard to match by the DIYer, plastic filler and glass fibre resins if correctly applied are great, sand with 300 then 400 , always gring rust to bare metal, appy phosphoric acid to treat all metal, wipe clean with water and air dry (hair dryer), apply spay putty and sand with 600 dry (I dry sand to ensure no moisture traps) give 2 primer coats, 2 colour coats, light sand if any orange peal, 2 clear with 5-10 minute breaks, cut and polish after 30 days. Mix ratio 1:1.5 with most acrylics at suction type gum pressure of 50psi. NEVER use bronze welding as borax flux porosity will swell under paint. Sand blast wheels and spray with 850deg Heat Engine Paint. Use chassis black for compnents.

11. Tools and Garage equipment for X19s.
a) Basic mechanics tool chest of 200 items will do all most strip and assemble jobs for the average owner. Est cost $200-400.

b) For the enthusiast, apart from the standard selection of sockets and wrenches drivers, pliers, calipers, torque wrench, it is worth buying a Air Compressor 8 CFM or bigger, a Pedestal Drill larger the better, a Mini Lathe, jig saw, variable speed hand drill, Bench Grinder, Oxy/Acet gas kit, Trolley Jack, Car Stands, Metal Cut Off saw, Tap & Die set, a good engine dwell/stobe light, 1 Tonne chain block on gantry, spray gun (sucktion type) for acrylic, 2 or 3 flood lights, wash trough, test probe and multi meter. Est cost $2,500- 3,500 buy second hand where posible. This is the main extent of my garage.

c) The fanatic/racer will need optional equip;  pipe bender, mini mill, valve guide extractor, dial micrometer, garage press, 3 metre bench, pressure wash bin, die grinder, water high pressure blaster, hand sheet metal roller, folder, shear, various electric hand tools, welders. Cost $5,000 plus but worth it, since you will get a 10,15, 20 lifespan.

12. Things that are Useless.
  Concerning street cars, oil coolers can actually keep the oil too cool and cause more wear, most oils today are synthetics and operate 90-110deg C, all oils age and breakdown especially over 150 C,  most start to oxidise and have 'oil stink' which is an indication to change oil anyway.
  Forget oil additives, and small filters. Race cams on the street are useless, Fancy spark plugs and leads, coils, Additives for radiators (except glycol) , gearboxes, engines, fuel, most octane boosters, big carbs, big exhaust (over 50mm like the turbo guys) fancy valves, exotic pistons, mirror port finishing, race clutches, hard shocks, none of these are effective unless you are in full blown race trim and drive on a billiard table. I know one guy who put in very hard Koni shocks and punched the strut through the bonnet at the same time being overtaken by a stock model around bumpy corners. Ultra low profile tyres, drilled brakes rotors do little, ventilated are usefull,  Also don't hog bore the motor or over advance the timing, over size high comp pistons are expensive when some weld filled around the exhaust pocket will achive the same.

Summary:
  The X19 engine due its massive over square short stroke is unstressed and a great revving motor, hence can withstand very high consistent RPMs, main performance secret gains are from inlet porting and head chamber cleanup, inlet valve size increase to 40mm max,  high squish and high port velocities are the key,  until this is done little else will achieve the same effect, also remember that dynamic compression is higher than static when ram effect is filling the chamber, cam timing is best at high lift and short duration, thus for this reason the stock cam is very good torquer and ok to 5-6000 RPMs for all street use, 32/36 or 34/34 carb with high intake velocities give good air/fuel atomization/mixing, increase compression only if good fuel available. 
  The real secret with these engines is getting it to breath efficiently since they are more sensitive to inlet development than exhaust. Once large inlet valves and open up the ports been achieved, then the engine will respond to carb, exhaust and cam tuning. Re-camming usually not nessary for street, if you want a cam go for ie 25-70/70-25 with 258 duration and lobe separation 110 deg with 10mm lift, forget the rest, remember Fiat rate cam lift @ 0.020" of movement not 0,050" as in USA. Don't hog out the ports to look like the English Tunnel or mirror polish to see your pretty face in or overcarb the motor, the object is high turbulence and velocities. Performance is directly attributed to power to weight ratio and nothing else, thus lightening anything and everything will improve performance, ie 100 kilos loss is equal to a 10HP gain (figuratively speaking), rayon radial and spun alloy rims are easier to turn than heavy steel rims and steel radials, in fact most so called alloy rims are heavier than stock rims.
  It is not hard to get an X19 under 800 Kg and with a 1300 cc developed motor at 100HP gives good performance with modest cost, Road holding is inhereted with X19's so any wide rubber will extend this, with out resorting to hard and harsh supensions which achieve little, braking is best improved with regular disc machinings and pad changes, I use metalic pads only on the front and will soon fit stainless steel braided lines.
  X19 monoque/subframe is reasonably strong and passed USA 70Km crash test where USA cars couldn't in the 1970, then the USA changed the rules, so a X19 is well built, and don't let any one say different, although I would'nt want to be hit in one, these cars will still kill you.

"Happy Hooning petrol heads, go and blow those motors"