CORNERSTONE FIBRES

Rabbit Care Program


To begin with this is how I care for my rabbits. It is not warranteed in anyway to be "The Way" to care for angoras. You are free to gleam what gems may be present here, but I can take no responsibility for the results you get using them. Each of us is an individual and our results will vary because of small differences in management.

****Topics****
Housing
Feeding
Grooming
Health Management
Harvesting And Storing Fibre


HOUSING

Cornerstone Fibres rabbits are housed in two small outbuildings. One is for the breeding rabbits and the other is for the Woolers. The wooler shed is set up with 3 tiers of cages to each side of the door with a grooming centre straight ahead at the end of the aisle between the cages. Feed is stored in a locked bin under the grooming centre. A thermometer is suspended just above head height at the centre of the building. It helps in making decisions concerning the rabbits comfort on days when the temperatures are extreme. With a series of well spaced trees the building stays fairly cool even on the hottest summer day we get here in Eastern Ontario. The windows and door were positioned to take advantage of the direction of prevailing summer breezes. With an opening in each wall every bit of breeze can be caught to help with cooling. In winter the south and west windows serve as great solar collection points. On a sunny winter day it can be as much as 10 degrees F warmer inside then out. I usually breed once or twice per year, 4-6 litters at a time, and select additions from amoung these litters. Every couple of years I look for new bucks to introduce new genetics and avoid inbreeding problems. This also gives a chance to upgrade the quality of my rabbits overall.

FEEDING

I use Purina 17% protein feeds and a mix of grains for all my rabbits. They get 4-12 ounces per rabbit per day plus a healthy handful of timothy hay. I feed 2 ounces of pellets/grains in the morning and the rest plus the hay at the evening feeding. Water is supplied in an assortment of crocks and bottles, which are checked twice a day. All feed and water containers are cleaned and disinfected as needed in the summer, seems to be about once a week on average. In winter my routine is a bit different because the water freezes most days. At that time I change water crocks morning and night to give them a chance to thaw out.

GROOMING

I brush most of my rabbits only once a month. The French or French crosses need minimal grooming to grow beautiful, long, mat-free coats. The English and Giant rabbits though I find need to be brushed about every other week. Blowing cuts down on grooming alot. Sometimes if the weather is humid or they are very active they need to be brushed every week to stay mat-free all over. I have not yet tried a Groomer's blower unit, but have found a 4.5hp shopvac with blower unit vacuum to be a handy blower for grooming the more densely coated animals. I usually begin by grooming the stomach. I place the rabbit in my lap on its back with its ears pinned lightly between my knees. Beginning at the chin I part a section of wool to the skin to get a beginning point and then brush the wool lightly with a fine toothed comb in small sections till I have covered all of the underside of the rabbit. To finish I may use a cat slicker brush to give a fluffy finished look to the surface. Most often I don't as I am only concerned with keeping the bunny as mat-free as possible. Some words of warning. Rabbits should be accustomed to being handled and placed in all kinds of positions when small. Do not pick up your newly acquired rabbit and flip it upside down unless you are very sure it is use to this practice. A frightened rabbit can kick out hard with its hind legs and rip a person up quite effectively with its hind toe nails. It is also possible for a rabbit to break its own back while kicking the hind legs to avoid something that has frightened it. Once I have finished the stomach area I usually place the bunny on a stand on its feet and proceed to groom the back and sides same as the stomach. Part the wool to the skin in a place behind the ears and working in small segments with a grooming comb work your way to the tail end of the bunny. Does may become nervous as you near the tail area. Firmly but kindly insist she sit for grooming, while bearing in mind that she may interpret the grooming in the tail area as the unwanted attention of a buck rabbit. Using a blower is faster then combing. Again remember the rabbit may have to get use to the noise of the blower and the sensation of the air parting the wool. Try to blow or comb the wool in the direction it grows. Do not blow in the bunnies ears. When working near the ears cover them with one hand to save the bunny any irritation from air blowing at high speed into its ears.

HEALTH MANAGEMENT

Each time I groom a rabbit I give a quick look at the condition of the nails, teeth, eyes and vent area. If the nails are overgrown I use a set of medium dog nail clippers to trim them. The odd messy eye is flushed with a mild salt and water solution. If a runny eye persists more then a few days I make an appointment with my Vet. A very rare occurance. Checking the teeth I look for any excessive growth in the front teeth or jaws that are poorly aligned. Over growth can be filed off like floating wolves teeth in horses or prevented by offering bits of wood to chew on. Fruit tree pruniings are a favoured treat. Misaligned teeth though are a genetic defect. Rabbits with misaligned jaws, their siblings and their parents are removed from my breeding program immediately. Again this is far from a regular event. Vents/rears are checked for any signs of diarrhea or disease. More then minor problems are again referred to a Vet. The ears are checked any time I have a hold of a bunny. Any indication of ear mites is treated immediately with a miticidal oil available at any Vet's office for a small fee. As a prevention you can add a couple of drops of baby oil or mineral oil in each rabbits ears once a month. Ear mites are probably the most common problem rabbits have in my experience with them. I want to stress that while I look my rabbits over carefully for any signs of disease I don't want to give the impression that rabbits are a sickly creature. They are very much disease-resistant.

Harvesting and Storing Fibre

I prefer to pluck my rabbits when possible. A rabbit ready to be plucked will give off little tufts of wool easily. It may be noticed hanging on the edge of the water or feed dishes or may be strands wrapped on the wires of the cages. Groom the rabbit you intend to harvest throughly to remove any mats that may be present. Then taking hold of a small tuft of fibre tuck gently. The fibre should come off the rabbit easily with no signs of discomfort from the rabbit. If your rabbit flinches or there is resistance in the fibre to being tugged on, it is not ready to be plucked. I begin harvesting behind the ears and clear the back, sides and dewlap( chest ) of the bunny of all harvestable fibre first. I then sit on the floor and flip the bunny over with its ears pinned between my knees to harvest the belly wool. Till you develop an eye for the length of fibre a ruler to measure it is a handy device. I sort as I pluck into different containers for each grade of wool. I use 2.5 inches as a minimum length for prime grade, 1.5 inches as a minimum length for 2nd grade fibre ( felting/blending grade) and anything shorter, a tiny bit matted or dirty goes in the 3rd grade bin, makes lumpy felt or very bumpy novelty yarns. I use large resealable freezer bags as my storage bags. A gallon size bag holds around 3 ounces of uncompressed fibre. These are labeled as to day of harvest, amount and rabbit harvested from. Colour is obvious as the bags are clear. These bags then go in large plastic bins labelled by colour for the prime fibre and grade for the lesser fibres. These are stacked, at the moment, on top of each other as I have yet to get a shelf system made for them to fit into. I place herbal satchets in each bin to discourage moths and other bugs. The satchets are made of lavender and penny royal from my gardens. Each rabbit in the rabbitry has a record page on which I keep track of dates for harvesting fibre, amounts and grades harvested and the overall condition of the rabbit. These sheets also hold information on last worming date, anything the rabbit has been treated for, breeding dates, litters due, litters had, numbers of young weaned and their ear numbers, colours of bunnies produced in litters, (learning the genetics and this helps immensely), where I got the rabbit from and more. All of this information helps in making decisions such as which rabbits to breed or which to keep. For a pet rabbit or lone wooler I would not bother except perhaps for wool yield in the wooler's case.


Have fun and enjoy your bunny's company as well as the wonderful fibre produced.


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