The Enfield Bullet Manual
- by Pete Snidal (C)2002
The Gearbox
Removing the Outer Cover
If complete stripping of the gearbox is intended, ie removal of the
gearset and mainshaft, the clutch should be removed
before proceeding. (The underlined text is
a link to the chapter on clutch removal in the actual manual.)
The first step in any gearbox work will be removal of the outer cover.
It will be well to refer to the diagram, and
probably to print one out before proceeding. (The underlined text is
a link to the diagram) in the actual manual.)
Preceed this work by draining the gearbox oil. Place a clean catch pan
under the gearbox drain plug (42) at the bottom of the inner cover, and
remove the plug. Allow the gearbox to drain completely and replace the
plug.
First, remove the neutral finder lever assy (81-87) from the shifter
shaft (46). Identify each part on the diagram, and place them in order
in the parts tray - a piece of wire or bag tie through them all would be
a good idea. The neutral finder stop assy (77, 78) may be left in
place. Then, remove the gear change lever (RH shift models), and
kickstarter lever.
Old Trick: If you have trouble sliding off the gear or kickstart levers,
remove the bolt completely, and gently drive a slot screwdriver into the
gap until it spreads enough to slide off the shaft easily. On LH shift
models, this trick will come in handy again in a few minutes.
Remove the top inspection cover, - its screw is one of the ones holding
the cover on - and disconnect the clutch cable from
the upper bellcrank lever visible inside the cover. (It will be helpful
to slack off the cable at the handlebar first.) The lower inspection
cover may be left alone at this point. Place all parts in a clean parts
tray.
Finally, remove the four holding screws, noting the length of each and
where it goes, and place them also in the clean parts tray. The outer
cover may now be removed.
This is as far as you will have to go to service the kickstarter spring
or the shifter mechanism. For access to the kickstarter pawl assy
(32-36,) the shifter bellcrank actuator (46), or its bushing (44), or
for a cursory examination of gears and bushings, the inner cover must
be removed.
The Right Side Shifter
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The Shifter, or Gear Change Ratchet assy (56-68) is held to the
inner cover by the Adjuster Plate (57) being screwed to it. It may be
left in place on the cover if the cover must be removed.The shifter
ratchet assembly (57-67), with the Outer Actuator (69) shaft, may be
left in place on the kickstarter shaft (32).
|
At this time, you should examine
all bushings, pins, etc. in the LH shifter mechanism, from foot pedal to
the final actuator shaft into the rear of the inner cover. Owners
report few difficulties with the bushings supporting the actual
crossover shaft, but the design leaves something to be desired with the
pins in the parallelogram arrangement between the pedal shaft and the
crossover shaft.
There are some improvement kits available, - see your
dealer - or many owners have elected to go back to the original design
of the Right Foot Shift. A kit is also available for this conversion.
The drawback is in learning how to ride with right-foot shifting, the
advantage is in the remarkably more positive gearchanging due to the
elimination of so many parts between the foot and the ratchet.
Removing the Inner Cover
The Left Side Shifter
 |
With the LH (Continental and NA) shift mechanism, the internal
shift actuator lever is moved by the LH (Continental/US) external
shift linkage by means of a shaft coming in through the rear of the
inner case. Before the inner cover is removed, the shaft clamp must
be loosened, and the LH actuator removed, in order to remove the
circlip on the shaft just behind the lever. You will probably need
to spread the clamp. |
In order to remove
the actuator, it will also be necessary temporarily to remove the
footchanger plate (67). Remove the two cap nuts holding the plate,
withdraw the actuator, and refit the nuts to hold the inner and outer
ratchets in place.
Both Shifters
To remove the inner cover, the fixing screws must be removed.
The mainshaft bearing cover (52) will be seen to be held in place by two
screws, one of which is used as the anchor for the kickstarter return
spring. Remove these two screws, supporting the end of the spring with
a suitable tool such as needlenose pliers as you take out its screw,
and relieve the spring pressure gradually. Place the cover and its screws
in the parts tray, and then unscrew the nut (51) and washer (50) on the
end of the mainshaft.
Note the mainshaft nut (5) is LEFT HAND THREAD!
Remove all cover fixing screws, whether slot head, philips,
or cap screw (hex head.) This will make it possible to pull off the
inner cover.
(NB:- note the detent plunger adjuster is also a screw head,
but held in place by a locknut. As it has no part in retaining the
inner gearbox cover to the gearbox case, this may be left in place.
, or removed as a unit. (27,28,29) If removal is chosen, first make a
note of the angle of the screw slot relative to the floor. Then,
loosen the locknut, and screw down the adjuster gently , counting the
number of half-turns until it stops. Make a note of this number for
replacement purposes. Then unscrew it until the assembly is released,
and place it in your parts tray.
Drawing Anomaly
At some time in the history, the factory changed the manner of fixing
the pawl shaft stop (38) in place, changing from bolting through the
stop and into threads in the case cover from the inside (with bolt shown
as (37)), and bolting instead through the case cover from the outside
and into threads in the shaft stop inside. If you have one of these,
there will be an "extra" screw, not on the periphery of the case cover
joint, but below and to the rear of the mainshaft bearing - on the
upper periphery of the kickstarter shaft (32.) Leave this screw in
place.
Breaking The Joint
You may now break the joint between the inner cover and the gearbox
case. First, test to make sure that all fasteners are removed.
Lightly tap the cover on the top, bottom, and sides with a block of wood
and hammer. You may also find it helpful to tap it outwards from behind
with a suitable block of wood from over top of the clutch cover or from
the rear of the gearbox.
DO NOT use excessive force. The cover should come fairly easily - if in
doubt, look again to ensure that all fasteners have been removed. There
are none coming in from the back.
Mainshaft Bearing
In many instances, the inner race of the mainshaft bearing (49) will be
a very tight fit on the end of the mainshaft (14). In extreme cases, a
puller could be made up, a plate which would be held across the front of
the inner case by means of the outer case mounting screws, with a nut
and bolt applying pressure against the mainshaft.
However, in most cases, merely placing the nut on the end of the shaft
to protect the threads, and applying pulling force to the outsides of
the case cover, while tapping the mainshaft end with a hammer and soft
(aluminum or brass) drift will suffice.
When the cover is loose, carefully pry it away from
the gearbox case - DO NOT damage the joint surfaces; they must maintain
oilltightness when this is all over.
You want to leave the kickstarter shaft (32) and shifter bellcrank shaft
(46) in place in the gearbox as you pull the cover off. So, using the
thumbs, apply pressure to these shafts as you pull the cover off with
the fingers of both hands. When the cover is off, you will be ready to
service the components inside the gearbox itself. Similar pressure may
be appropriate for the mainshaft to come through its bearing.
The Inner Gearbox parts will now be accessible for service.
The kickstarter pawl mechanism
The gearset
The shifter mechanism
Reassembly
(The underlined text lines are
links to the appropriate sections in the actual manual.)
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