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Tibetan Medicine: Disease

Tibetan Medicine: Disease

Tibetan medicines knows the three primary causes of disease, namely the emotional defilement of desire hatred and delusion, which are symbolically depicted as a bird, a snake, and a pig and concerns the secondary causes of disease, namely, seasonal climatic changes, the agency of harmful demons and improper diet or conduct.

Mandala sansaricq way of the life and reborn:

      • Desire

      • Hatred

      • Delusion

Causes of Pathology

Remote causes of pathology include the general primary cause of all disease, the fundamental ignorance, which gives rise to all cyclical existence, and the particular primary causes, the three poisons of desire, hatred and delusion, which give rise to the immediate primary causes. Wind, bile and phlegm, when subjected to imbalance or transformation, causing them to spread in different directions.

      • Wind is accumulated in the hot season

      • Bile is accumulated in the summer season

      • Phlegm is accumulated in the end of the winter

The secondary causes which aggravate the basis of disease. This has three aspects: the activity fields of season, conduct and sense-organs, to which the aforementioned causes refer when disease originates; the covert gathering and overt arising of secondary causes, and their fully manifest arising, which may be defined in the general context of the three humours, which tend to gather arise and subside during different seasons, and in terms of their specific indications.

The specific secondary causes of wind diseases include bitter, light and rough food, sexual exhaustion, fasting, insomnia, vigorous activity on an empty stomach, excessive loss of blood, diarrhea, vomiting, exposure to cold winds periods of mourning or crying, mental anguish, unrestrained chatter, protracted consumption of non-nutritious food, and the retention or straining of natural functions.

      • Reliance on a bitter, light and rough diet

      • Sexual exhaustion

      • Fasting

      • Insufficient sleep

      • Vigorous work on an empty stomach

      • Diarrhea

      • Excessive loss of blood

The secondary causes of bile diseases include the excessive consumption of sharp hot, or oily food, or of meat, butter, molasses, and wine, surging anger, sleeping in direct sunlight, engaging in hard physical activity, athletic pursuits, or being injured in consequence of falling from horseback, or being wounded and so forth.

      • Reliance on a diet of hot tasting food

      • Reliance on a sharp, hot and oily diet

      • Surging of strong hatred or anger in the mind

      • Digging solid earth

      • Carrying an unbearable load

      • Sleeping exposed to the midsummer

Those indicative of phlegm diseases include bitter, sweet, heavy cooling and oily foods, along with herbal concoctions of dandelion, milk, goat or hybrid cattle meat, fat and bone marrow, stale oils or greens sour radishes raw garlic, cold water, tea unboiled goat's milk, immature curd, unripe grains and pulses, as well as resting after a heavy meal, sleeping in the daytime or in a damp place, and being lightly dressed in winter.

      • And overeating and drinking

      • Causes contributing to diseases of phlegm

      • Drinking milk

      • Lying on damp ground and sleeping in daytime

      • Immersion in water, especially at the end of winter

For the influence of spirits there are innumerable disorders brought about by certain contributory factors or conditions relating to harmful influences or spirits. The 360 female spirit influences are connected with desire and attachment and give rise to Wind. The 360 male spirit influences are connected with anger and hatred and give rise to disorders from Bile. The 360 demons klu or water dwelling spirits) and Sa-bdag (specific spirits that govern or haunt particular places) are connected with ignorance and give rise to Phlegm disorders. If they happen to be disturbed, all these spirits can cause harm.

Elemental Daemons

The inception of disease and the parts of the body in which specific humoural disorders are likely to be localised. At their inception diseases of wind were situated in the bones, those of bile in the blood and perspiration , and those of phlegm elsewhere. When subjected to this pathological transformation, the skin and muscle tissue succumb first, followed by the channels, ligaments and bones; and lastly, by the internal viscera. The skin is the common location of wind and bile dysfunction, chyle is the common location of phlegm and bile dysfunction, and the joints are those of phlegm and wind dysfunction. Subsequently, dysfunctions of wind become localised in the intestines, hip-sockets, bones joints, skin and ears, those of bile in the stomach, blood, perspiration, chyle, serum eyes and skin, and those of phlegm in the chest, throat, lungs, head, chyle muscular and adipose tissue, bone marrow semen, faeces, urine, nose and tongue.

If you are invested in Eastern medicine and would like to learn more about different methods of treatment, you can visit AB Acupuncture for resources on this centuries-old form of therapy and even book an appointment. In the meanwhile, here are the types of diseases as understood in Tibetan medicine.

Types of Disease

Characteristics of different types of disease, which are to be understood in terms of the three degrees in which they arise, namely excess, deficiency, and their mutual aggravation. In general, the main causes of humoural excess or deficiency are the primary and secondary causes outlined above, while undigested chyle is seen as a major cause for the excess or deficiency of the bodily constituents or excretions. As for the corresponding symptoms an excess of wind is indicated by dark skin, emaciation, trembling of the body, bloated stomach, weakness, constipation, vertigo or dizziness, lack of sleep, debility of the senses and frequent chatter. An excess of bile is indicated by jaundice of the faeces, urine, skin and eves, fever, little sleep and by hunger and thirst. An excess of phlegm is indicated by chills, indigestion, bloated stomach, lethargy, looseness of the joints, torpor, depression, excessive sputum and saliva, breathlessness, and pale complexion. An excess of chyle is indicated by chills and so forth, similar to the symptoms of an excess of phlegm. An excess of blood is indicated by infectious diseases such as erysipelas and internal rodes, spleen disorders, leprosy, tumours, internal jaundice of the eyes, swollen gums, difficulty in physical movement, reddening of the eyes, urine and skin and internal diseases. An excess of muscle tissue is indicated by goitres, ganglions, and obesity. An excess of adipose tissue is indicated by lethargy, dullness, enlarged breasts and stomach. An excess of bone-tissue is indicated by enlarged bones and extra teeth. An excess of bone marrow is indicated by heaviness of the body, swelling joints and impaired vision. An excess of reproductive fluids is indicated by seminal lithiasis and excessive sexual desire. An excess of faeces is indicated by heaviness of body, bloated stomach, intestinal pains or rumbling, and difficulty in movement. An excess of urine is indicated by pain in the urethral area and frequent micturition. An excess of perspiration is indicated by profusion of sweat, unpleasant odour, and cutaneous itching. An excess of minor excretions is indicated by local heaviness, irritation and surface putrefaction.

By contrast, a deficiency of wind is indicated by loss of energy, slowness of speech, unclear recollection, and other symptoms similar to those of excessive phlegm. A deficiency of bile is indicated by loss of body heat and pigmentation, along with coldness, and darkness of the skin. A deficiency of phlegm is indicated by vertigo due to brain disorder, palpitations of the heart, and looseness of the joints. A deficiency of chyle is indicated by emaciation, difficulty in swallowing, rough skin, and hypersensitivity to noise. A deficiency of blood is indicated by loss of tension in the channels, rough, cold skin, a deficiency of muscle tissue and a partiality for sour foods. A deficiency of muscle tissue is indicated by protruding bones, arthralgia, and emaciation. A deficiency of adipose tissue is indicated by insomnia, emaciation of muscle tissue, and a bluish complexion. A deficiency of bone tissue is indicated by loss of hair, teeth and nails. A deficiency of bone marrow is indicated by vertigo and vision impairment. A deficiency of reproductive fluids is indicated by bleeding from the reproductive organs, sensations of discomfort and of burning pain in the testicles. A deficiency of faeces is indicated by rumbling of the stomach and pains in the ribs and heart when this wind moves upwards. A deficiency of urine is indicated by oliguria, sudden colour changes and discomfort in passing water. A deficiency of perspiration is indicated by cracking skin, open pores and loss of body hair. Lastly, a deficiency of vital fluid, brought about by mental anxiety, increases fear and general debility, but may be restored by means of life-sustaining medications, fresh milk and broth.

Classification of Diseases

The classifications of diverse diseases, in terms of their primary causes, the sex or age of the patient, and more extensive enumerations based on an analysis of diseases according to their humours main features, locations and types. Diseases specific to a particular sex or age include the seventeen male diseases, the thirty-two female diseases, the twenty-four paediatric diseases, and the general debility of old age. There are one hundred and one diseases common to all types of patients. When these are enumerated on the basis of humoural disorders, they comprise forty-two of wind, twenty-six of bile and thirty-three of phlegm Similarly, when these are enumerated on the basis of their main features, they include diseases distinguished by an independent isolated humour or by a dependent humour in association with others.

When they are then enumerated on the basis of their locations in the body they comprise two mental categories (insanity and epilepsy) eighteen of the upper part of the body, nineteen of the internal viscera, five of the lower part of the body, twenty that are external, including those of the skin, muscles, channels and bones and thirty-seven which are internally located. Lastly, when enumerated on the basis of their types they comprise forty-eight which are internal, fifteen kinds of wounds, nineteen kinds of fever, and nineteen which are miscellaneous.

Briefly summarised, all diseases may be classified as dependent diseases caused by past karma, imaginary diseases caused by demons, absolute diseases of this life, and ostensible diseases, and these are respectively held to be untreatable treatable by ritual means, treatable only by medication, and without need of treatment because they heal spontaneously.

Stages of Diseases

All known diseases may have four stages, namely: primary cause, onset or inception, discernible manifestation, and pathogenic maturity.

Preventing Sinus Infections

Preventing Sinus Infections

Preventative Measures to Reduce Sinusitis Problems

A sinus infection can make you feel miserable. Here are some tips for reducing the frequency of sinus problems.

It’s the cold that won’t go away---that miserable condition known as sinusitis, (better known as a sinus infection). Anyone who suffers from sinus problems knows the discomfort it brings. Besides congestion, a sinus infection can leave you with a bad headache as well as a lingering cold and sometimes a bad cough.

Sinuses are the air-filled spaces in the cranial (head and face) bones near (and connecting to) the nose. Located on either side of the nose in the cheeks, sinuses are both behind and between the eyes. There are four pairs (or eight in all) of sinuses that continue to grow until age 20.

What is a Sinus Infection?

Simply put, a sinus infection is the inflammation (or swelling) of your sinuses. Your sinuses are normally hollow or filled with air. But when you catch a sinus infection they’re filled with growing bacteria. When this happens, infection sets in, resulting in sinus congestion.

Building and maintaining a healthy immune system should be a priority for you now more than ever. Besides the tips to follow, you can also support your immune system with a healthy lifestyle and regular acupuncture treatment. Click here to learn more.

Can Sinus Infections Be Prevented?

Just as preventing the common cold, totally avoiding sinus infections may not be possible. However, you can greatly reduce the frequency of sinus problems by taking a few preventative measures.

      • Install air purifiers---As dusty curtains, as well as carpets and pillows saturated with dust mites, can irritate your sinuses, you need to reduce the airborne allergens in your home. Therefore, it would be a good idea to use an air purifier (especially in your bedroom) containing a HEPA filter.

      • Use humidifiers—Your sinuses need moist air to drain properly. As humidifiers increase the moisture in the air, it’s a good idea to invest in one. Also, use air conditioners rather than opening up the windows, further irritating your sinuses.

      • Avoid tobacco smoke---If you don’t want to verbally confront any smokers who visit your home, a simple sign, “Please do not smoke” should get the message across.

      • Reduce alcohol intake---Alcohol can also make nasal and sinus membranes swell, leading to an infection.

      • Avoid smog---If you live in an area filled with smog, you need to find another place to live as smog is also a culprit in sinus problems.

      • Reduce air travel---Cut back on airline trips as frequent flying can add to your sinus infections. Sinus problems sometimes occur when the air pressure in a plane changes during either taking off or landing. If your job demands that you fly often, use an inhaler or decongestant nasal drops before boarding. Unfortunately, airlines have strict regulations regarding carrying liquids on board. Chewing gum also helps relieve pressure change.

      • Keep your nasal passages clear---You can keep your sinus passages clear of mucous by frequently irritating your nose and sinuses with a solution of saltwater. Or, just buy an over-the-counter sinus rinse that comes with pre-measured packets. Just be sure to read the instructions to avoid overuse, drying out your nose.

      • Relax more---Stress can also be a factor in sinus problems. Find ways to unwind when your life gets complicated. For example, take up a relaxing hobby, pray, or find a trusted friend to talk to about your problems.

      • Drink more water---As water increases the moisture in your body, it helps prevent congestion. Frequent hydration also thins mucus for better drainage.

If you follow all these tips but still suffer from chronic sinus infections, then you may have to go for a battery of medical tests. In some severe cases, surgery is even recommended.

PTSD

PTSD

A useful working definition of PTSD is - The circumstance where a person is suffering from intrusive images, sounds, thoughts or feelings that are linked back to a previous event or set of events. The primary event may have been a life threatening situation or simply any unpleasant situation, particularly if the person were at that time in a state of chronic heightened anxiety. These intrusive elements are usually called flashbacks.

A useful way of looking at this is to think of a computer as an analogy. It is possible to minimize a programme and then run another one in the foreground. The background programme is the sensitizing event. If there is something in the present that in some way links across to this programme then the programme comes into the foreground and is expressed as a flashback or the emotions attached to the primary event.

This phenomenon of running more than one programme concurrently is a normal state of affairs. If the times to which our attention is called are pleasant and positive then we quite enjoy the links as we reflect on previous happy events and call these "daydreams". It is, however, a different situation if the effects of the time brought into recall are negative.

When we experience flashbacks we are in an altered state which is, in fact, a trance. The ability to run multiple programmes at the same time is, in my opinion, a trance phenomenon. Hence only those who are good trance subjects tend to suffer from PTSD. This is great news though, because it means that hypnosis is an extremely effective tool if used in the treatment of PTSD.

Treatment of PTSD

Hypnosis is the treatment par excellence for PTSD. It is very quick and usually results in total resolution of any problems with flashbacks.

What is needed in PTSD is to be able to go to the memory of the event and change that in some way in order to make a learning and then separate the attached negative emotions. The original method of treatment was regression and abreaction where the client is regressed back in order to re-experience the event and let out the emotions that need to be released. Whilst this is still an effective technique, the client (and the therapist) find the technique distressing. If they do not have any more emotional reserves than they had at the time of the original incident then they are re-traumatised and may even be made worse. In my opinion a counselling approach to trauma is inappropriate as that also takes the client back into the event in a similar way to regression and abreaction.

Newer techniques in order to treat PTSD and other sequelae of trauma have now been developed. These are the techniques of dissociated imagery. The essence of this approach is that a metaphor is used in order to allow the client to be dissociated from the event by either floating above it or by seeing it as a projected film. This "distance" or "dissociation" serves to separate the client from the event. Hence they do not re-experience the vivid emotions of the original event. Negative emotions reduce our ability to respond with flexibility. Unless they can generate another response to the event then they have simply re-experienced the original event and reinforced the effect of the event.

Once the situation is in place where the client feels safe and is able to view the event in a dissociated way then it is possible to use various psychotherapeutic interventions in order to change how they feel. The essence of the client's resolution of the problem is that they use imagery in order to in some way take control of the situation as they see it from the new dissociated perspective. Then they can, in some way, give resources to "the younger you" who experienced the initial event.

Treatment of PTSD is usually easy and quick if undertaken by a therapist who is experienced in the use of dissociative imagery.

You can supplement this form of treatment with lifestyle changes and alternative therapies for a holistic approach to tackling PTSD. Learning more about how to practice self care can help you go a long way in overcoming past trauma.

Past Trauma

We have all, in varying degrees, experienced difficult and distressing times. In most cases these events do not cause us to have future problems. In fact they can serve to strengthen us when we experience difficulties in the future, as we have developed successful coping strategies in the earlier events.

Some people use metaphors of precious metals being purified as the furnace gets hotter and hotter. Whilst that metaphor can be helpful for someone who has coped well, it can pour guilt and other negative feelings on those who did not cope as well as they would have liked.

Some therapists work on the assumption that we all have negative traumatic events that are the root of all our present problems. Such persons then "fish around" in the clients' unconscious memories and bring things into consciousness until they eventually find the "right" negative event. That event is then "dealt with" and the client is "totally healed".

We have past events that we have dealt with in a resourceful way. Why should these be dug up and dissected? One way to look at this is to think of well rotted compost. That can serve to nourish a garden. You would not want to separate and re-create the original weeds and dead plants that were used to make the compost.

Whilst it may be appropriate to work on past events this is by no means always the case. Ideally when past events are dealt with this should be done in a way in which the work is kept at an unconscious level using metaphor or dissociative imagery.

Asthma Treatments

Asthma Treatments

How Is Asthma Treated?

There are many things that one can do to control asthma and minimize its impact on one's life. Because each case of asthma is different, treatment needs to be tailored for each person. One general rule that applies, though, is before starting on medication it is important to protect yourself from asthma triggers. Avoidance of asthma triggers can be accomplished by cleaning up the air that you breathe starting at home. People can start by removing or avoiding the things in the environment that you know are irritants to your health and are factors that make your asthma worse. When these measures are not enough, it may be time to try one of the many medications that are available to control symptoms.

Asthma medications may be either inhaled or in a pill form and are divided into two types—quick-relief and long-term relief. Quick-relief medicines are used when necessary during an asthma attack to control the immediate symptoms of an asthma episode. In contrast, long-term control medicines do not provide immediate relief, but rather help to lessen the frequency and severity of episodes over time by treating the inflammatory state of the airways.

Like all medications, asthma treatments often have side effects. These are usually mild and go away spontaneously. Discuss with your doctor any side effects that you may experience from the medication.

Examples of commonly prescribed medications:

Quick-Relief Medications:

      • Beta2 Agonists (Inhaled): Include albuterol (Proventil, Ventolin,), bitolterol (Tornalate), levalbuterol (Xopenex), pirbuterol (Maxair), terbutaline (Breathaire).

      • Anticholinergics (Inhaled): Such as ipratropium (Atrovet).

      • Corticosteroids (Pills): Include methyprednisolone (Medrol), prednisone (Prednisone, Delatasone, Orasone), prednisolone (Prelone, Pediapred).

Long-Term Relief Medication:

      • Cortocosteroids (Inhaled): Includes beclomethasone (Beclovent, Vanceril), budesonide (Pulomcort, Terbuhaler), flunisolide (Aerobid,), mometasone (Asmanex), triamcinolone (Azmacort).

      • Cormolyn and Nedocromil (Inhaled): cromolyn sodium (Intal), nedocromil sodium (Tilade).

      • Leukotriene Modifiers (Pills): zafirlukast (Acculate), montelukast (Singulair), zileuton (Zyflo).

      • Beta2 Agonists (Long acting): Inhaled salmeterol (Serevent), extended release albuterol (Volmax, Proventil, Repetabs)

      • Theophylline (Pills): theophylline (Slobid, Theodur, Theo24, Uni-Dur, Uniphyl, Generic).

Tools of the trade:

Some of the common tools that your doctor will recommend to optimize the effectiveness of the medication are the following:

A metered-dose inhaler (MDI) is a propellant-driven delivery system that allows you to inhale the asthma medications. This is very useful since the medication will go directly to the target organ without affecting other organs. Usually the health care provider will show you how to use this device correctly. Use of MDIs has to be done correctly by coordinating your breathing with the instant that the inhaler is pressed. If not used correctly some of the medication will be lost into the air or around the mouth. MDIs are just one of three basic types of devices used to deliver inhaled medications.

Holding Chambers and Spacers are tube-like devices used with the inhaler to simplify and optimize delivery of the medicine. Holding chambers are placed between the inhaler and the mouth. When the inhaler is pressed the mist is held in the chamber until it is inhaled. There is much less wasted medicine with the use of holding chambers. It has been shown that medication gets distributed more evenly and deeper into the lungs with the use of holding chambers.

Nebulizers Compressors: Nebulizers deliver fine liquid mists of medication through a mouthpiece or a mask that fits over the nose and mouth, using a small air compressor or oxygen under pressure. The medication is delivered slowly into the lungs after being converted from fluid into mist. They are easier to use and more effective but require about a few minute. They are frequently used to treat people with asthma who cannot use an inhaler, including infants, young children and acutely ill patients of all ages. Some nebulizers use ultrasonic waves to break the fluid into mist that can be inhaled. These are called ultrasonic nebulizers. Medications that are more viscous take usually longer to administer.

A peak flow meter (PFM) is used to monitor how well your medication is serving you. For asthma patient, a PFM is like a thermometer for a fever. It’s a tool that helps you monitor if your breathing is normal or if you need to take more or less medication, or if you need to see a doctor. With asthma, sometimes you may feel your breathing is fine, but when you measure it with a peak flow meter, your lung function is slightly decreased. A peak flow meter can help you better manage your asthma without surprises.

Some small clinical trials show that acupuncture may help improve asthma symptoms. To learn more information about acupuncture, visit AB Acupuncture.

A Glitch From Heart And Spleen: Aphthous Ulcer

A Glitch From Heart And Spleen: Aphthous Ulcer

Aphthous ulcers (canker sore) are little, yet they are powerful enough to spoil your mood. Every time you eat, especially hot, sour, and spicy food; brush your teeth; or even talk to someone, the pain reminds you that happiness in itself cannot be granted, even the “little” ones.

According to Western Medicine, the causes of aphthous ulcers include impaired immune function, infections, nutritional deficiency, and Vitamin B Group insufficiency. In general, they can be healed in seven to 10 days.

Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), on the other hand, regards that our facial organs correspond with our internal organs. Take tongue and mouth as examples; while the heart opens into the tongue, the spleen leads to the mouth, suggesting that tongue and mouth diseases are mostly related to heart and spleen. In fact, the mouth as a whole is the sensory organ linked to the spleen and actually a branch of the spleen meridian extended to the bottom of the tongue. As for the tongue, in particular the tip, is connected to the heart.

Having said that, when a TCM Practitioner makes a diagnosis of the disease, the first thing he/she needs to do is to determine whether the condition is “excess” or “deficiency” (Yin, Yang, External, Internal, Cold, Hot, Deficiency, and Excess all belong to the “Eight Principles”, one of the most important diagnostic systems in TCM.)

Although both are aphthous ulcers, the symptoms that patients experience are rather different. “Excess-type aphthous ulcer is red in color and painful; it has swelling around the rim with yellow discharge. In addition, patients usually are accompanied by bitter mouth, bad breath, constipation, swollen gums, etc,” TCM Practitioner said. “This type of aphthous ulcer likely is induced by heart/spleen accumulated heat due to improper diet such as excessive spicy and deep-fried food, or staying up late.”

As for deficiency-type aphthous ulcer, it mostly is caused by a weak stomach and kidney function. Despite the ulcer area has little pain and color, it persists for a long time and recurs constantly. Sufferers generally are accompanied by loss of appetite, lack of energy, and insomnia.

“According to TCM, aphthous ulcer actually is an indicator that the environment in our body is imbalanced,” TCM Practitioner said. “In TCM’s approach, in conjunction with medicating the ulcers, patient’s lifestyles and general constitution will be properly modulated (with herbal medicine and other treatments) as they are brought to light, so that the contributing factors of the problem can be diminished.”

There are two DIY home remedies, though, that can mitigate your aphthous ulcers. Whether you prefer “salt” or “tea,” either one is simple and convenient.

Pour boiling water into a cup with five teaspoons of salt OR one teaspoon of black tea leaves. Rinse your mouth with the water after it turns warm. Twice per day, one in the morning and one at night.

“Both salt and tea can help reduce inflammation and kill bacteria; which are able to ease the pain of the ulcers and speed up wound healing,” TCM Practitioner continued. “If the condition is more serious, rinse can be done a few more times a day. However, if the ulcers show no sign of improvement over a week, one should go to seek medical treatment immediately as it might be a warning of mouth cancer.”

In TCM, acupuncture stimulates the acupuncture points releasing the qi in the body. To know more about acupuncture, check out AB Acupuncture.




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Organic Gardening

Getting Started, Doing the Right Thing

PTSD

The Reasons Why

There are two men in California who covertly place bumper stickers reading “I'M CHANGING THE CLIMATE -- Ask Me How!" on large, late model pollution-belching SUVs. While I applaud their message (heck, I'm a Mustang-driving girl, myself), I’m not so sure about their methods. I prefer using the guilt trip.

So, please return your tray tables to their upright positions and fasten your seat belts. Close your eyes and imagine…imagine your toddler or puppy rolling happily in (or even munching on) the thick, green, weed-free grass of your front lawn. Imagine picking and eating a plump, scarlet tomato right off the vine, with the juice running down your chin. Imagine the pleasures of a tall, cool tumbler of iced tea with a sprig of freshly cut spearmint jutting from the glass.

Then ask yourself this: Would you enjoy any of those situations if you knew that noxious, deadly chemicals had been used on the plants in each scenario?

As poisons trickle into our water supplies, as the soil erodes until it is unusable, as the air is filled with more pollutants, as birds and beneficial insects are wiped out due to human carelessness and lack of adequate legislation, the need for organic gardening methods is clear. We must replace what we take from the environment, and restore natures balance the best way possible - with natural products.

Simply put, organic gardening is one of the ways you can practice doing the right thing. We could all use a little more of that these days.

If you are presently a gardener, you don’t have to convert to organic methods overnight. It is a learning process. Sometimes it can be confusing. A good deal of patience is also helpful. But the rewards and feelings of accomplishment you will personally gain will only be outdone by the gifts you will be providing to our precious planet.

If nothing else, you’ll be in good company by converting to organics. In the last decade, organic practices have expanded dramatically. People are wearing clothing made with organically grown materials, using natural cosmetics, feeding their pets holistically. Utilizing natural products becomes a way of life -- a belief, if you will -- and a commitment.

What Does "Organic" Mean, Exactly?

Webster defines the term organic as “Of, relating to, or derived from living organisms” and “that which is raised or conducted without the use of drugs, hormones, or synthetic chemicals”. There is nothing organic that is created from scratch in a lab. That being said, there are some natural products that are considered no-nos by the most knowledgeable organic gardeners. After all, Mother Nature can be pretty deadly in her own way, sometimes. We’ll cover those sorts of topics in future articles.

Begin With the Basics

If you came to me and said you would love to garden naturally but had no idea where to begin, this is how I would respond:

Start a Compost Pile: Use leaves, grass, coffee grounds (with paper filters too), non-greasy fruit and vegetable kitchen scraps, anything vegetative that used to be alive, and pile it up in a corner of the yard, preferably one that will get both sun and rain. Compost is nature’s fertilizer. Getting started is the most important thing.

Get Rid of Synthetic Herbicides, Pesticides, Repellants and Fungicides: If the container says anything about contaminating water supplies and killing fish and beneficial insects populations, try not to use it. As far as properly disposing of synthetics and toxic chemicals, your local Cooperative Extension office can point you in the right direction.

Learn to Love Everybody (Almost): Change your way of thinking! Most spiders are your friends. Birds are our buddies. Wasps and bees are superheroes (unless you're allergic, of course). Fire ants and squash vine borers are a different story, however.

Make Your Own Natural Remedies: Most insects and diseases can be controlled with natural methods. Start hording those orange peels - they’re a big part of the organic gardening homemade recipes.

Jump In...It's Fun!

Organic gardening isn’t difficult. In fact, it’s downright fun. I wouldn’t be here writing and sharing with you if I didn’t believe strongly in it.

Keep in mind that with any new habit, it takes time to change your way of thinking and your methods. It also takes time to convert your plants and lawn to the organic way. You may not see huge benefits or great success the first year. But maybe the next year or the next, when you’re strolling barefoot through your thick, luscious, untainted front lawn at daybreak and notice a gazillion ladybugs everywhere it will dawn on you. Your efforts have worked. Your living space is clean and natural. You are giving back, keeping the balance and, best of all, you are doing the right thing.

If you need a helping hand while getting started or if you need a general garden maintenance for your house garden, then check out Portland TT, they have professional staff offering wide variety of services.







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Tips for over seeding a lawn

Tips for over seeding a lawn

Over seeding into an existing lawn is a difficult task. The new seedlings have to compete with the established grasses and they will need all the help they can get to ensure they establish. However there are some factors that can determine how successful you are.

Soil Compaction – Any soil or rootzone that suffers from compaction will have a detrimental effect on any over seeding program as it will be difficult to get the new seedlings to establish. A compacted soil suffers from lack of oxygen, drainage problems and will impede root development, all to the detriment of your over seeding program. Compaction also encourages shallow rooting weed grasses such as Annual Meadow Grass.

Excessive Thatch – Thatch is the build up of organic matter between the grass sward and the soil or rootzone. A lawn that has too much thatch will see your over seeding program suffer. The ideal sowing depth is usually below the thatch layer with the seed just coming into contact with the rootzone. This is difficult to achieve if your lawn has excessive thatch. If the seed is sown in the thatch layer it may well germinate but it will be difficult for it to establish successfully.

Soil Temperature – One of the most important factors that will determine if your over seeding program is successful is the soil temperature. This is the main reason many people favour the late summer over the spring for over seeding, as the soil is warmer in late summer. That said, there is no problem with over seeding during the spring, however results may not always be that great. This year we have had a very cold spring with overnight frosts, which haven’t been great for over seeding with reports of some inconsistent results.

Irrigation and watering – Another factor on your program is the use of water. All new seed need water to germinate and establish successfully. However getting the balance right is important, apply enough to keep the soil moist, not too wet or too dry.

Mechanical operations prior to over seeding – Operations such as aeration or scarification and raking can be be beneficial in helping seed to germinate and establish successfully. These operations help create a seed bed where the seed comes into contact with the rootzone which will help with both germination and establishment of the seed.

If you are trying to do some maintenance in your garden or cutting trees, check out Portland TT, they provide great service by a team of professional experts.




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How to Grow this Spring Salad Favorite in Containers or the Ground

How to Grow this Spring Salad Favorite in Containers or the Ground

Organic gardeners should place lettuce seeds or lettuce transplants on their shopping list each spring, even if they aren’t ready to commit to a full scale vegetable garden. Lettuce takes up little garden space, tolerates some shade, and can be harvested in six weeks or less. Growing lettuce in the home organic garden is a way to ensure one’s food security, as leafy crops are more susceptible to E. coli contamination than fruits and vegetables grown on bushes or vines. Furthermore, the Environmental Working Group considers conventionally grown lettuce as one of the “dirty dozen” meaning it has high levels of pesticide residue compared to other crops.

Choosing Lettuce Seeds

Gardeners can choose from four types of lettuce to start in the garden. Loose-leaf lettuce is a popular variety for a salad container garden, as gardeners can pluck a few leaves from maturing plants for daily eating throughout the growing season. The heirloom ‘Black-Seeded Simpson’ is favored among gardeners for its tender texture and mild flavor. Loose-leaf lettuce seed blends are popular, as they give the gardener a mix of delicate and strong flavors over a long harvest period.

Harvesting a fine crop of crisphead lettuce from seed is a challenge, but worth it to gardeners unwilling to settle for a watery head of ‘Iceberg’ lettuce in the grocery store. The difficulty in growing crisphead lettuce is to encourage the head to form before hot weather cues the plant to bolt, but using shade cloth or growing heat tolerant varieties like ‘Summer Batavia’ increase the chance of success.

Romaine lettuce combines the ease of loose-leaf varieties with the texture of head lettuce. ‘Little Caesar’ is a petite romaine variety perfect for small gardens or container culture.

Butterhead lettuce yields sweet, buttery leaves over a long season, sometimes even spring through fall. Gardeners unfamiliar with their attributes often overlook these lettuces, but an heirloom variety like ‘Four Seasons’ will win converts with its tasty leaves and ornamental qualities that make it a possibility for the flower garden.

Prepare the Soil for Planting Lettuce

Despite their fragile appearance, lettuce plants are hardy specimens that evolved from tenacious weeds. An important consideration in growing lettuce is achieving fast growth, as most varieties taste best when harvested before the harsh glare of the summer sun brings out bitter flavors. Work compost into the soil in the fall, and set out transplants as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. Thin the plants ruthlessly after transplanting, as overcrowding encourages diseases.

Lettuce Pests and Diseases

Early spring lettuce isn’t troubled by many pests, but as the season progresses, aphids and caterpillars can be problematic. Blast aphids off lettuce plants with a jet of water, and handpick caterpillars.

If you are in need for your home garden maintenance, needs some plants and trees planting or removal, check out Portland TT.




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Acupuncture for Neck Pain

Acupuncture for Neck Pain

About 90% of those who ever received acupuncture for neck pain are cured or improved, according to domestic and international statistics in China. Although a lot of people overseas are still skeptical about the efficacy of acupuncture for neck pain, the trend is that more and more people are seeking help from acupuncture to relief the annoying chronic neck pain.

Causes of neck pain

Given that busy work and life stress combined with fatigue and poor posture at work, people who live in modern times tend to suffer from neck pain unknowingly. The worse trend is that not only the adult but also the younger generation suffer from neck pain.

Besides the symptom of neck pain, in severe cases the secondary symptoms include dizziness, headache, palpitations, insomnia, chest tightness, gastrointestinal discomfort and other symptoms. This phenomenon should arouse us again how importance our lifestyle can do to us.

For people suffering from neck pain, almost everyone ever experienced a series of examinations, such X-ray, blood test, nerve conduction, endoscopy, EEG, computed tomography, or MRI. However, most of the results of examinations indicate that everything is quite normal. From the perspective of modern medicine, this is a kind of unexplained neck pain.

Acupuncture for neck pain

This kind of unexplained neck pain is characterized by a special sore point besides the pain in neck, shoulders, back and other parts. This special sore point is called “ashi acupuncture point” in Chinese medicine, while a “trigger point” in western medicine. Pressing ashi acupuncture point can cause particular feelings of sore, numb, bulging and heavy.

Common treatment protocols and treatment points by using acupuncture for neck pain are as follows:

      1. Type of neck pain based on nerve root. Main treatment points are Laozhen, Houxi?SI 3?, ShousanIi(LI 10), Chize (L 15), Xiaohai (SI8) and Jiaji etc. Treatment protocols are mainly to dredge the channels and promote blood circulation to remove blood stasis.

      2. Type of neck pain based on spinal cord. Main treatment points are Juegu, Kunlun, Tsusanli (ST 36), Yanglingquan (GB 34), Shenshu (BL 23), Dazhu (BL 11) etc. Treatment protocols are mainly to benefit bone and restore marrow content, benefit kidney and complement essence.

      3. Type of neck pain based on sympathetic and vertebral artery. Main treatment points are Anmian?(Extra 8), Anmian (Extra 9), Neiguan (P6), Shenmen (H 7), Sanyinchiao (SP 6), Taixi (K 3), Yinwei and Yangwei etc. Treatment protocols are to nourish kidney Yin and reconcile the relationship between Yin and yang.

Studies and experiments of acupuncture for neck pain

Acupuncture for neck pain is effective in most of neck pain cases, according to the studies and experiments. To verify the effect of acupuncture for neck pain, researchers ever observed the reactions with EMG during acupuncture therapies. The researchers found that during EMG resting the fibrillation and positive waves were disappearing along with the disappearance of positive signs. At the same time, the strength of muscle with damaged nerve was back to normal and the voltage, current and phase are tending to normal as well. All the results are promising and indicate that acupuncture for neck pain were working. To learn more about acupuncture for neck pain, visit AB Acupuncture.




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Most Used Acupuncture Treatments to Lose Weight

Most Used Acupuncture Treatments to Lose Weight

Weight loss with acupuncture was not documented in the ancient Chinese medicine works, but in recent years clinical acupuncture experience shows promising effects on curbing cravings and suppresses appetite to achieve weight loss. Basically weight loss by acupuncture has been accepted positively and widely these days. Especially for those are not suitable for surgery or want to lose weight fast, acupuncture is a better option.

As for the methods commonly used acupuncture to lose weight, experts say, the following 5 are the most commonly used methods:

1. Ear Acupuncture to lose weight

Ear acupoints: mouth, esophagus, duodenum, hunger point, endocrine, brain, stomach.

Operation: 1 to 2 points chosen for each treatment, insert the needle alternately on pairs of ear, ear attached with adhesive on them between treatments 2 ~ 3 times weekly, 10 times as two sessions, and each treatment interval of 5 ~ 7 days.

2. Body acupuncture to lose weight part 1

Acupuncture Treatment protocols: The main acupoints of RN4-Guanyuan and SP6-Sanyinjiao.

Auxiliary acupoints: On the basis of patterns by syndrome differentiation.

Pattern of Spleen deficiency and Dampness stagnation: Neiguan (P6), Shuifen (CV 9), Tianshu (S25), Fenglong (S 40), Lieque (L 7), Pishu (BL20).

Pattern of accumulated Dampness-heat: Quchi (LI 11), Zhigou (TE 6), Daheng (Sp15), Ssu man (Ki 14), Neiting (S44), Fujie (SP 14).

Pattern of Conception Channel (Ren Mai) disorder: Zhigou (TE 6), Zhongzhu (K 15), Tai mai (Gb 26), Xuehai (Sp10), Shen shu (Bl 23), Taixi (K 3).

Operation: The main acupoints are the must for each treatment, and then 3 ~ 4 auxiliary acupoints added based on the patterns. Retaining the needle for half an hour each treatment, every other day one treatment, 15 times as a session of treatment, each treatment interval of 5 days.

3. Body acupuncture to lose weight Part two

Acupuncture Treatment protocols: Main acupoints of Tianshu (S25), zhongwan (RN12) and Daheng (Sp15).

Auxiliary acupoints: Quchi (LI 11), Ho ku (Li4), Gaohuang (BL43), Neiting (S44), Sanyinjiao (SP6).

Operation: Connect Tianshu (S25) and Daheng (Sp15) to electroacupuncture apparatus, and then continue to power for 15 to 20 minutes, one treatment per day or every other day, 10 times as a session of treatment.

4. Elongated needle to lose weight

Acupuncture Treatment protocols: Jian yu (LI15) through Quchi (LI 11), Liangqiu (ST 34) through Biguan (ST 31), Liangmen (ST 21) through Guilai (ST29).

Operation: Spare No.28 three-inch-long needle, insert needle every acupoint each treatment.

5. Moxibustion to lose weight

Acupuncture Treatment protocols: the main acupoints are Yangchi (SJ 4) and Sanjiaoshu (BL 22)

Auxiliary acupoints: Diji (SP8), Mingmen (GV 4), Sanyinjiao (SP6), Dazhui (GV 14).

Operation: Select one main point and one auxiliary point each treatment, ginger moxibustion with acupuncture treatment.

Among the above mentioned methods to lose weight, experts say, ear acupuncture is the most common one. And the imbedding needle and ear attached with adhesive on them between treatments can get better results on weight loss. However, if we don’t sterilize the needles strictly, it can easily lead to infections. The weight loss effect of other two body acupunctures is quite similar to ear acupuncture. Elongated needle is relatively harder to handle, mainly applying to those overweight with strong physique. But elongated needle can get a better result on weight loss, comparing with the other methods. As for the method of ginger moxibustion with acupuncture treatment, it is difficult to handle and its medical effects on weight loss are relatively poor. For more information about link textmedical acupuncture, visit AB Acupuncture.




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Chinese Medicine Insomnia

Chinese Medicine Insomnia

In Chinese medicine, insomnia can be triggered mainly by 5 causes. Since ancient times in China, people used many remedies and formulas to treat insomnia. According to Chinese medicine insomnia theory, insomnia is always associated with the heart. In fact, the concept of “heart” in traditional Chinese medicine, to some extent, is the equivalence of the brain in modern medicine.

Chinese medicine insomnia theory

According to Chinese medicine insomnia theory, the causes for insomnia are as follows:

      1. Gastrointestinal function and eating disorders. Eating disorders would damage gastrointestinal function easily, which leads to stagnation of food and phlegm-heat;

      2. Liver function disorders. Liver can be impacted easily by negative emotions. The folded functions of liver can result in stagnation of Qi and blood stasis. Therefore, people with negative emotions tend to feel upset and suffer from insomnia;

      3. Dysfunction of heart and kidney. People who are with physical weakness or chronic illness are usually deficient of kidney Yin. The disharmony between the heart and kidney tends to contribute to heart-fire hyperactivity. The heat can injure shen (spirit), which is stored in heart. Therefore, it would lead to restlessness and insomnia.

      4. Function disorders of spleen and stomach. Anxiety and stress injure the heart and consume heart Yin furtively, which will lead to mentally wandering and insomnia. The injured spleen can result in loss of appetite and deficiency of blood, which in the end fail to nourish the heart and lead to insomnia;

      5. Gall bladder dysfunction. A guilty conscience, cowardice and the feeling of frightened and upset easily can lead to insomnia as well.

The root of Chinese medicine insomnia theory

From the perspective of Traditional Chinese medicine insomnia theory, there are many causes for insomnia. But the root is basically related with the sickness of the “heart”. For example,

      • Deficiency of heart blood;

      • Deficiency of kidney Yin fails to eliminate heart-fire;

      • Excessive liver-fire can lead to excessive heat-fire;

      • Confusion of heart (mind) by phlegm;

All these causes, more or less, are relevant to the “heart”. Actually, a considerable portion of the “heart” in Chinese medicine insomnia theory is relevant to brain in modern medicine.

Chinese medicine insomnia remedies

The principles of Chinese medicine insomnia remedies are subject to the syndrome, which refers to the so-called syndrome differentiation.

The regular Chinese medicine insomnia remedies are as follows;

      • Soothing the heart and tranquilizing the mind;

      • Clearing heat and eliminating fire;

      • Nourishing yin to reduce pathogenic fire;

      • Clearing heat and expectoration

      • Promoting blood circulation to dissipate blood stasis;

Although the principles of Chinese medicine insomnia remedies might vary, the results tend to be good if used properly.

Regular used herbs for insomnia

In Chinese medicine, insomnia can be treated by many herbs. The list is so long that it is hard to list them all.

Some regular used herbs for insomnia are as follows:

      • Tian Ma (Rhizoma Gastrodiae);

      • Lingzhi mushroom (Ganoderma lucidum);

      • Ge Gen (Radix Puerariae);

      • Du Zhong (Cortex Eucommiae Ulmoidis);

      • Shi Chang Pu (Rhizoma Acori Graminei);

      • Yuan Zhi (Polygala tenuifolia);

      • Bai Zi Ren (Semen Platycladi);

      • Suan Zao Ren (Zizyphus spinosa);

      • Lian Zi Xin (Plumula Nelumbinis Nuciferae);

      • Hu Po (Amber);

      • Niu Huang (Calculus Bovis);

      • Zhu Sha (Cinnabaris);

All these herbs have the effect of soothing the heart and tranquilizing the mind. No doubt using these herbs in appropriate combination according to the principles of Chinese medicine, insomnia can be cured or improved.

In addition, Chinese medicine insomnia remedies are more than that. Acupuncture treatments, ear acupuncture, electro-acupuncture and laser acupuncture are also the regular and proven remedies to treat insomnia. In most of cases of the combination of herbs and acupuncture in Chinese medicine, insomnia tends to be cured more quickly and effectively.

Planting, growing and care of Amaryllis flowers

Planting, growing and care of Amaryllis flowers

Normally one bulb is planted in a 6-8 inch pot (15-20cm) of well draining mixture. The potting mixture consists of equal parts of loamy soil, sand and well rotted Farm Yard Manure(FYM). Before planting dip the bulb for 15 minutes in fungicides (0.02% Bavistin solution) to control diseases. Never use fresh manure or pine bark as a part of the medium. Plant the bulb with nose above the rim of the pot. Two third portions of the bulbs should be inside the potting mixture and the nose of the bulbs should be planted in an upright position. Firm the planting medium around the bulb and roots so that there are no air pockets.

If planted in beds, the distance between bulbs should be 12 inches apart. It is better to select a sunny spot in the garden that receives some shade during the afternoon hours. After planting, water the medium copiously. It is important not to overwater the plant in order to stimulate the growth of the basal root system. The medium should be kept slightly moist until the flower stem appears. Generally watering is done at an interval of 15-20 days, if the weather is dry. Don’t water over the bulb noses.

Season and cycle for Amaryllis

Best time of planting is December-January in the plains and February-March in the hills. Bulbs bloom about three months after planting. Amaryllis flowers only once in a year. The peak flowering time of Amaryllis is March- April in plains and April–May in the hills. To obtain maximum life from the flowers, they should be kept in cool areas of the house and avoid direct sunlight.

Taking care of Amaryllis

When the Amaryllis plant begins to grow, fertilization is essential. Plants require liquid manure for active growth and flowering. Make the first fertilizer application when new growth begins, then repeat the application when the flower stalk is around six inches tall. Apply the third dose when old flowers dry. When flowering is over, watering should be stopped gradually. Leaves are removed when they become yellow and dry. After harvesting, the bulb should be dried in semi-shade condition. It can be store in cold storage for two weeks at 23-25 o c with high ventilation rates. They are subsequently stored at 13oc at 80% relative humidity for at least 8-10 weeks.

Insects, pests and diseases affecting Amaryllis

Amaryllis may be attacked by several insect pests and diseases which causes extensive damage to the plants and bulbs during storage. The major insect pests are caterpillars, aphids, thrips, mealy bugs, scale insects, mites etc.

Caterpillars (Polytela gloriosae) appear during June-July; and eat all the leaves within 4-5 days. Application of Endosulfan at 0.02% or Cypermethrin at 0.02 percent alternately controls the caterpillars.

Aphids, Mealy bugs, scale insects generally sucks the sap of leaf surface .They can be controlled at a younger stage with the spray of 0.02 percent Malathion or other neem based insecticide.

Thrips suck the juice from leaves, flower stalk and flowers .Thrips can be one of the causes for the amaryllis to fail flowering. It can be controlled by weekly application of Endosulfan at 0.02% or Dimethoate at 0.05% solution.

Mites also damage the tissue and suck the sap from beneath the surface. There are several mites, such as spider mites that make webs on the older leaf of the plants and flowers. These are very small and red in colour. Leafs become yellow after a mites attack. Spray of Propargite (omite) at 0.01 percent concentration controls very effectively if sprayed at regular intervals.

Primary disease of Amaryllis is fire or red spot (Stagonospora curtisii), Leaf spot and Viral diseases. Over watering can sometimes promote development of a fusarium. Fusarium and other fungal diseases can be prevented by avoiding high humidity, crowding of plants and splashing of water on the foliage. Use of fungicides in the early stages of infection may be effective.

The disease may be controlled by spray of copper oxychloride (0.75%) or by warm water treatment of bulbs at 43.5 0c for 2 hours. It has been observed that dipping of bulbs in 0.2 percent Benlate or Captan solution is effective.

Viral disease is generally spread by insects like Aphids as vectors or through mechanically by using the same tools for cutting the infected & healthy plants. General symptoms of virus infected plants are large yellowish green patches that appear randomly over the leaf surface.

All mosaic infected plants should be destroyed when identified. To prevent spread of the disease, control of possible insects or mite carriers through insecticide and clean the surrounding weeds that might harbour viruses.

If you need help maintaining your garden or clearing trees, be sure to visit Portland TT to know more about their professional services.

Raised Bed Gardening

Raised Bed Gardening

Advantages of gardening in raised beds...

      • Plants in raised beds get more sun and air circulation and they can make better use of water. You often can plant earlier and harvest later, because raised beds warm up early in the spring and stay warm later in the fall.

      • Raised beds also make ideal places to grow plants that can be invasive in a regular garden – such as mints and horseradish. But ease and convenience is the benefit many gardeners appreciate the most. If you get a bad back and sore knees every year from gardening, a raised bed may put an end to those aches and pains.

      • Raised vegetable beds are excellent for gardeners who have trouble with their backs and older people who don't have limited flexibility. They are also excellent for people in wheelchairs or with other disabilities and those who don't want to spend the summer on their knees in the garden.

Growing a garden is a challenge in many urban and rural areas because of soil conditions. Homes are not always built on soils with desirable agricultural characteristics, and many soils in urban areas have been modified adversely by home construction. Vegetable gardening can be difficult at best. Gardeners are soon discouraged by the difficulty of preparing an adequate ed because the soil dries so slowly in the spring. If the planting is finally made, crusting, clods, and collapse of plants during the summer prevent the bountiful harvest promised by the seed catalogs.

For centuries, crops in many parts of the world have been produced on modified soils in elevated growing areas between walkways. This "raised bed" technique has been adapted to smaller areas and may be the perfect solution to the problems of growing a garden at home.

At first this may seem like a lot of work. In fact the first stage usually is, however, it gets easier as the years go by and the advantages far outweigh the initial investment of time and money. It's also more difficult to weed when soil is compacted, so with a raised bed, you can plant, weed and harvest without ever walking on the soil. Most gardeners find that raised beds are easier to maintain in the long run.

Soil improvement may be achieved by incorporating organic matter. Substantial quantities are required, so the organic matter should be readily available and relatively inexpensive. Sawdust, ground bark, leaves, or chipped pruning materials meet these criteria to one degree or another. If the organic materials are composted, so much the better, but this is not a necessity.

Other satisfactory materials, although more expensive, include planting mixes, which are sold by forest by-products companies, and animal manures, either alone or mixed with some kind of bedding material. See soil for more info.

Creating a raised bed usually includes a great deal of spading, possibly a multiyear process, but the following method permits great success in the first year after a farely simple soil modification process.

Preparing raised beds

If the soil is compacted, an initial rototilling will be helpful, even if only 2 or 3 inches deep. Do not rush this step; wait until the soil is dry enough to pulverize and not turn it over in large chunks.

Step One

Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic material over the garden's surface. A cubic yard will cover 162 square feet 2 inches deep, so you will need 6 to 7 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet.

Unless you use a composted product, a mixture that contains manure, or a commercially fortified planting mix, you will need to supply nitrogen. Nitrogen is needed for organic matter breakdown. Broadcast one of the following supplemental nitrogen uniformly over the layer of organic material.

Step Two

Rototill to a depth of about 6 inches to mix in the organic matter. Spading will accomplish the same objective, but using a tiller will make the job less backbreaking and the results more uniform, especially in a heavy clay soil.

Step Three

Use a shovel and rake to shape the beds. They should only be about as wide as you can read, say 48 inches. Shovel the walkway area (14 to 16 inches wide) to a depth of 6 inches.

Add the excavated soil to the top of the beds. This creates a soil-organic mix about 8 inches deep, sufficient for adequate rooting of most vegetable plants.

When the elevated area is raked level, the natural slope of the soil will leave about 36 inches of flat planting space on top of the 48-inch-wide bed. Once the shaping is finished, keep traffic in the paths and do not compact your nicely prepared planting beds. Add sawdust or bark to the paths to prevent problems with mud.

The walkways between the raised beds may seem to be wasted space. However, when you see how much more you can grow on the beds, compared to what you did before, you will know the work was worth it.

"Retaining walls" are not necessary unless you want to create special shapes or use narrower walkways to fit your garden space. Boards, blocks, or railroad ties will hold the soil in place, but they also will create another place for slugs to hide and breed.

Planting and caring for plants

Plant seeds or transplants. Application of fertilizer is important at this time because the nitrogen you added in Step 1 took care of only the 2-inch organic layer. Additional nutrients are needed for adequate nourishment of garden plants.

As you read this, you may be thinking, geez, they need a LOT to eat! And it may be starting to dawn on you why our soils are sooo depleted. Read more about that here. Whether you use organic or manufactured fertilizer, keep in mind that vegetables need a lot of nutrients. They grow rapidly, producing an entire plant and crop for harvest in only 25 to 100 days. Be sure you apply enough nitrogen, phosphate, and potash to feed the plants properly. Pale green plants craving nitrogen probably will appear more often in raised beds than in conventional gardens. Add the nitrogen as needed during the growing season.

Irrigate properly to keep plants growing. The mixture of soil and organic matter in raised beds dries faster than clay soil. On the other hand, the soil is loose, so it absorbs water faster. Soaker hoses or upside-down sprinkler hoses can be used to good advantage. With low pressure, they water only the raised bed.

Keep the walkways as dry as possible to help control weeds. You can place stakes at the corners of the beds to catch the hose and prevent it from damaging plants.

Maintaining Raised Beds

Organic matter decomposes and disappears, so add more of it constantly. Use compost to provide nutrients during the summer. Cover the beds with 2 inches of leaves or other organic material each winter. This material will be pretty well decomposed by spring, and planting can proceed on schedule.

Fill the walkways with leaves when they are available. This will create a trench of composted material that you can rake up onto the beds later. Think of it as easy schmeezy compost!

Once the beds have gone through the improvement process, rototilling should be unnecessary. Conditions may not be ideal yet in the first spring following bed construction, but light spading or forking will create a suitable seedbed.

As you keep adding more loosening material, you will be able to garden almost all year. Earlier planting will be possible because the improved drainage creates a better environment for plants. It also promotes faster warming of the soil and more rapid growth in the early season. At the end of the season, better drainage means healthier plants that will continue yielding longer. The walkways can provide better footing after rains begin. You are more likely to harvest cool-season crops with less mud to battle!

If you need help maintaining your garden or clearing trees, be sure to visit Portland TT to know more about their professional services.

Tuberous Bergonias from Seed

Tuberous Bergonias from Seed

Plant Propagation & Seed Starting - Tuberous Begonias from Seed

Tuberous Begonias are very easy to grow from tubers, and prices are fairly reasonable, too. It takes only 8-10 weeks of growing space indoors in late winter, or the tubers can be started directly outdoors. So why would anyone then decide to start tuberous begonias from seed?

Growers may want to develop new hybrid cultivars by crossing two different begonia plants, also called hybridizing. Sometimes, buying seeds can also be cheaper when a lot of plants are desired or when growing plants from superior strains. Finally, the seeds may even be free, if harvested from own plants, for example.

Begonia seed are very fine, like dust or finely ground pepper. The tiny, fragile particles can be difficult to handle and unlike other seeds you can not touch them or they may be damaged. At first glance it may seem that growing begonias from seed is something that should be left to commercial growers or experts, but this is not the case. Anyone can grow begonias from seed by following a few guidelines.

In as little as 18-22 weeks from sowing you can produce a nice sized begonia with flower buds ready to flower. Seeds sown in early January will flower in May through fall.

The key requirements for successful seed growing are good hygiene, patience, careful handling of the seeds and small plants, and later proper spacing, lighting and fertilizing. All of these factors can easily be done indoors and if you have grown plants from seed before, tuberous begonias are not out of your reach. If you are just starting with seeds, I do recommend trying some larger seeds first.

The process involves following steps:

      1. Preparation and disinfection of tools, trays, and containers

      Careful preparation of the seed starting medium, light, and temperatures

      Sowing the small seeds. We will look at various techniques

      Waiting, and checking moisture

      Transplanting small seedlings

      Providing suitable space and conditions to grow to maturity

Preparation and Disinfection

Good hygiene is required when growing tuberous begonias from seeds. This is due to the fact that the sprouts are very small and very susceptible to damping off. Damping off is a dreaded seedling disease which causes death before or shortly after germination. The best way to avoid damping off is to use a high quality seed starting media, and then wash all tools, trays, and containers in a 10% bleach solution prior to starting.

The solution can be mixed by adding 1.5 cups of chlorine bleach to a gallon of warm water. Use a clean sponge to carefully wash the inside and outside of all containers and tools and then rise thoroughly. Set up a separate area which is clean from dirt, plant debris, and other possible contaminants. I like to sow the seeds at the kitchen table.

Preparation of seed starting media

The seeds are very small and can easily fall between cracks of particles such as perlite and long fibered sphagnum moss. You can buy special fine grained propagation mixes, or you can sift a regular propagation media so only the finer particles are left. Normally I discourage this practice as the larger particles provide for better aeration, but we are allowed to make an exception in this case.

Pre-moisten the growing media in a small plastic bag before adding to containers and then water once really well to thoroughly settle the media in the pot. If need be, you can smoothe the surface of the mix with a ruler to ensure it is completely level, but try to avoid squeezing too much air out of the media. Aeration has already been compromised by the removal of larger particles - don't make it worse.

I do recommend that you familiarize yourself with the quality potting and watering techniques before starting. These have been detailed in 3 previous articles.

Light and Temperatures

Begonias should be surfaced sown (see below) as light is required for germination. Germination do not require a lot of light, and keeping the lights on in the room is usually sufficient, but I prefer to place the container under fluorescent grow lights to ensure that the young seedlings receive sufficient light in the early stages as they germinate. This prevents stretching.

Germinate the seeds at soil temperatures of approximately 70 - 80 F. Most reference materials seem to indicate 65-75 F, but seeds germinate faster above 75 F. I would avoid much higher temperatures than that.

Sowing the Small Seeds

The seeds are very small and fragile and can easily be crushed. To avoid stretching of the young seedlings, it is ideal if the seedlings are spaced at least 1/4" apart or wider. If you use celled flats (72, 128, 144, or smaller) then one seed per cell is fine.

In reality, however, it can be extremely difficult to sow seeds individually. When you buy seeds, they typically come in a small glycerin envelope with a few specs of dust at the bottom (no kidding). Trying to sow these seeds typically result in some seeds getting lost in the air on their way to the growing media, and the rest is bunching up on top of each other resulting in very few transplantable seedlings.

To avoid this, you can fill the envelope with a 1/4 tsp of silver sand, fine sugar, or very fine vermiculite (#2). Shake the envelope and then carefully pour the contents out on the surface of the growing mix. In this manner most of the seeds will be sown separately (hopefully).

A better way is to use two cardboard pieces and gently tap the seeds from paper to paper to separate them, and then finally onto the growing medium. This is the method I prefer. I have prepared a step-by-step photo instruction on separate page if you are interested.

SEED SOWING TECHNIQUE 1

Cardboard papers. Sow seeds by tapping them onto pieces of cardboard paper, which allow seperation of the individual seeds. Click here for detailed photo instructions.

Finally, there is a very nice method sent to me by Ray Nye. Using aquarium air tubing and a 30 gauge (medical) needle he created a very nice setup. He can sow 1300 seeds in a short period of time and precisely place each seed in individual cells. On a separate page, I have graciously been allowed to show his setup. The words are his, too.

SEED SOWING TECHNIQUE 2

aquarium airtubing. If sowing a lot of seeds, Ray Nye's method of using aquarium tubing to lift the small seeds can really be a time saver. Click here for detailed photo instructions.

Online gardening companies also sell squeeze “bulbs” which have needles of different sizes attached. The technique is similar to Ray Nye's above.

Germination

After sowing, cover with clear plastic and place in a warm place as recommended above. Bottom heat is preferred. The seeds should germinate within 14-30 days starting with white and pinks and finished with reds and yellows.

As the young seedlings are very susceptible to damping off, I keep the plastic cover on the seeds for a longer period of time for increased humidity than with other seeds. The standard advice is to remove the plastic covering as soon as germination is noted. With begonia seeds, I leave the cover on for at least 20-30 days until the seedlings have reached a certain minimum size (see picture below). If not they desiccate easily.

With regular interval, water the growing media by using a very fine mist, or by placing the seedlings in a pot of water (still covered by plastic) to wick up moisture from below (preferred). A very dilute fertilizer solution can be used after the seeds have germinated to avoid them stalling in the flat.

Transplanting

30 days after germination, gradually remove the plastic cover from the young seedlings. With the pointed edge of sharp knife gently lift out a small clump of growing media below the seedling. Transfer these clumps to separate pots and gently squeeze them into small pre-made holes in the potting soil. Then water the pots from below to settle the soil around the roots. If the seedlings have been growing close together, you can lift out a group of seedlings to the table and gently pull them apart by handling them by the leaves and roots. Do not touch the weak stems. Although the seedlings are small, they are incredible tough.

After transplanting, I cover the new pots with clear plastic for a few days to retain humidity which seems to aid in their recovery. Some loss should be expected, nevertheless.

Growing to Maturity

After the initial transplanting, grow the young seedlings under fluorescent grow lights. Make sure they have amble room to spread out before they get crowded or root bound. 4"-5" pots are good final homes before setting out. If you prefer to keep them potted outdoors, 8-10" pots can be used also.

Initially, the seedlings can be spaced pot to pot, but eventually they may need to be spaced 6-8" between the pots to avoid stretching. Foliage should not touch.

Fertilize weekly with initially 100 ppm from a nitrate based fertilizer, and increase this to 200-250 ppm after transplanting. You can read more about using PPM here.

Finishing Up

About 18-22 weeks after sowing, flower buds will start to form. Switch to a blooming fertilizer at this time and start to gradually harden the seedlings off to go outdoors. When watering the begonias, try to water infrequently but allow enough water to drip through the drainage holes at the bottom. The begonias can do with remarkably little water, and overwatering often result in more problems.

Fertilize begonias every 2-3 weeks with a half strength soluble liquid plant fertilizer outdoors. The plants do very well in partial shade; especially with morning sun. Too hot a position can lead to bud drop, but too much shade result in tall unattractive plants which do not flower well.

Click here if you need experts in maintaining your garden and tree care.

Beating the Gardener's Winter Blues

Beating the Gardener's Winter Blues

Organic Vegetable Gardening - Beating the Gardener's Winter Blues

Now we have all survived the holiday rush and are starting to settle down for a long winter, at least in my cold zone 5. What does the gardener do now when it is too early to start seeds and too cold to do anything outside?

Well, we plan, and review, and plan some more. First, we need to review our failures and successes from this past season. Maybe potatoes are not the thing to grow as they all got eaten up by beatles and nothing seemed to help. Or perhaps, we need to move those tomatoes into a more sunny spot, once we noticed that the tree leafed out pretty good and covered their sun.

Next, we look at our successes. What did well in your garden? Write down those crops that did well and where it did well.

Now we turn to the seed catalogues that have been building up since October or before. As you page through your seed catalogues start writing down everything that you want to do. Don't pause to think, don't limit yourself at all at this stage. Just go wild. Once you are done with that you put aside your catalogues - Now this is key. You can't add to your list anymore- at least not yet.

At this stage you are limiting it to what is reasonable with your own personal time constraints and garden size. Now you are reviewing you list and thinking seriously about maintenance and sun considerations and priority in your garden scheme. That melon sounds really good but do you have a good spot with full sun and rich soil? If not, either move on or be prepared to do a little extra work to get it to where you want it to be. Here we are taking out our drawing paper and sketching the garden we dream about.

Can you see it yet? Your garden is taking shape. Now you can turn back to the seed catalogues and dream some more, but keeping our narrowed list in mind. A problem that many gardeners have is to try too much new stuff at once. If you try too many new things, and they don't work out you can easily make yourself disgusted with your lack of success and can quickly lose interest in gardening all together. It can be done, but it is harder than it seems at first.

Now you can plan how to make it all happen. What tools do you need? What seeds do you need to order? How do you need to move the garden around? When you can expect your first harvest?

Check out Portland TT if you need help in garden planning and maintenance.

Weeds in Garden Landscapes - Remove and Control to Minimize Landscape Maintenance

Weeds in Garden Landscapes - Remove and Control to Minimize Landscape Maintenance

Weeds in garden landscapes are plants growing where they do not belong. Here are tips for effective removal and control strategies that can minimize maintenance.

Overview

Weeds are really plants in garden landscapes growing where they do not belong. Effective removal and control can minimize garden landscape maintenance. How do we effectively remove and control these undesirables?

Basic Strategies

Deep weeding and mulching are tried and true methods of control. Used improperly or alone these may become repetitive tasks that do not minimize maintenance. Avoid creating extra work by:

      • Identifying problem plants,

      • Categorizing them according to growth and reproductive habits,

      • Knowing their growth characteristics, and

      • Experimenting with sturdy new tools that make maintenance easier.

Problem Plants - Categories, Examples and Characteristics

Grasses

      • Annual grasses: Crabgrasses (Digitaria spp.) are prolific because they flower quickly and produce abundant seeds. Annual grass seeds also blow in from outside the bed(s).

      • Perennial grasses: Quackgrasses (Elytrigia repens) leave runners (rhizomes); the smallest piece can sprout a new plant.

Broadleaf Plants

      • Annual broadleaf plants: Common cocklebur (Xanthium strumarium), shepherd's-purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris), common lambsquarters (Chenopodium album) and common chickweed (Stellaria media) are all prolific seed producers. Their seeds also possess mechanical dispersal devices which allow them to "hitch-hike" far afield.

      • Biennial broadleaf plants: Wild carrot / Queen Ann's Lace (Daucus carota) and Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) grow two seasons before producing flowers and abundant seeds. They also possess deep tough taproots that provide staying power.

      • Perennial broadleaf plants: Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) and curly dock (Rumex crispus) flourish and grow larger each year until their superlative taproots are destroyed.

Herbicides - One Follow-Up Strategy

Herbicides are chemical substances used to destroy or inhibit plant growth. Many new herbicides are safe, effective landscape allies when used carefully and according to directions. Herbicides can:

      1. Inhibit seed germination,

      2. Prevent cell division and growth,

      3. Destroy cell membranes, and

      4. Disrupt photosynthesis.

Herbicide classification is based on application in specific parts of the plant life cycle, on which group of plants it is most effective, and how each works. These classifications strengthen reasons for knowing exactly what plants landscape gardeners want to eliminate.

      • Pre-emergent herbicides: control seedlings before they emerge or appear aboveground; most effective when applied a few weeks before plant germination and emergence; will not control established weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides act on specific plant groups.

Preen Garden Weed Preventer, a product of Lebanon Seaboard Corporation, is one example of a pre-emergent herbicide. It prevents growth of annual weeds in flower and vegetable beds, and around trees and shrubs for up to three months.

Preen works by creating a chemical barrier in the top 1 to 2 inches of soil. This barrier prevents cell division in developing seeds. It does not destroy existing weeds, but prevents new weeds from growing. Thorough and extensive weeding is necessary before application of Preen®.

      • Post-emergent herbicides: applied after emergence of a plant from the soil; some act upon new seedlings while others only on actively growing plants. Some post-emergent herbicides work through soil applications. Most, however, are contact herbicides that kill or weaken plants upon even casual or misdirected contact. Use requires painstaking care.

Roundup, a product of ScottsMiracle-Gro, is a systemic contact herbicide that active growing plants absorb. It usually kills the entire plant, including roots. It is rainproof in 10 minutes, and results start to show in about 6 hours.

Landscape Fabrics – Another Follow-Up Strategy

Landscape fabric for weed control yields successful results when utilized properly. It is not an "install once and forget" method of landscape maintenance. Landscape gardeners should:

      • Carefully analyze and then prepare project sites to make landscape maintenance easier,

      • Make use of itemized checklists before planting and/or mulching, and

      • Be vigilant about keeping up pest control for rips and tears in fabric and weed control from viable seeds that germinate in camouflaging mulch.

Mulch - The Finishing Touch

Mulch is the finishing touch for any landscape bed or border. It fulfills many roles in landscape maintenance. However, vigilance is necessary. Mulch may suppress weed growth, but seeds will continue to sprout and grow in top layers. Any kind of mulch makes a perfect germination bed.

Check out Portland TT if you need help in garden planning and maintenance.

Placing your Greenhouse

Placing your Greenhouse

Where to Setup Your New Greenhouse: Things To Consider

Greenhouses are a great place for pampering your plants and getting ready for spring sowing. But to get the most of your new greenhouse, and ensure it lasts for as long as possible, you need to make sure to install it in the right place.

Find a Sheltered Place

You will want to choose a sheltered place in your garden that gets a lot of sunlight in the winter.

However, you will want to make sure that the place you choose doesn’t accumulate cold in the winter.

Another thing you will want to avoid is humidity. Humidity can cause damage to any wooden structures in your greenhouse. It can also encourage moss and other pests to grow. It can be annoying having to constantly remove these nuisances.

The Side of Your Greenhouse Should Face South

A good rule of thumb is to have the side of your greenhouse facing south. This is usually the longest side of your greenhouse. This will give your greenhouse the best exposure to the sun, which is especially important during the winter.

Keep Away From Windy Places — Or Install Wind-breakers

You will also want to consider the wind when installing your greenhouse. Greenhouses that are exposed to wind lose a lot of heat, which means you will have to spend more money on heating. In some areas, winds can get so strong that it can break greenhouse windows.

To avoid this, you will want to ensure that your greenhouse is perpendicular to dominant winds.

You can also install wind-breakers to further protect your greenhouse.

To place your wind-breakers, first measure the height of your greenhouse. Now multiply this measurement by four. This is the distance at which you should place your wind-breakers.

Plastic wind-breakers are simple and quick to install, giving you good value for your money.

An alternative is to place your greenhouse behind a bamboo hedge or some shrubs.

Steer Clear of Trees

Make sure your greenhouse is as far from trees as possible.

There are a few reasons why trees can cause problems for your greenhouse

      • Trees create too much shadow

      • Branches can fall and break your windows

      • Roots can lift your greenhouse, causing problems

      • Deciduous and resinous trees will dirty your windows

Conclusion

Follow the advice above and you’ll be in the best position to enjoy your new greenhouse.

Additionally, you can hire a tree care service such as Portland Tree Trimming Services to help you better manage and understand the trees you have.

Producing Tomato Seeds

Producing Tomato Seeds

Want to grow heirloom tomatoes from your own seeds? Read on to learn more about producing your own tomato seeds.

How Tomato Seeds Are Produced in Nature

Tomato seeds are found inside the tomato fruit.

Within the tomato fruit, each seed is enclosed inside a jelly-like envelope. This envelope contains chemicals that keep the seed from germinating before its time.

Once the tomato is mature, it falls from the plant and begins to rot. This starts a fermentation process that destroys the jelly-like envelope, and allows the seed to germinate.

How To Get Tomato Seeds at Home

To get your own tomato seeds at home, you need to reproduce the fermentation process artificially. Thankfully, this can be done in three easy steps:

      Step 1: Cut the tomato fruit in two

      Step 2: Remove the seeds and place them in a jar along with some of the tomato’s juice

      Step 3: Leave the jar to sit for a few days until a musty white skin appears on the surface of the liquid.

The fermentation process is aided by Oospora lactis. This organism helps protect the seed from bacterial infections.

Once the jelly-like envelope has been removed, the seeds can begin germinating.

Be careful not to let the seeds ferment for too long as this can make them non-viable. How long your seeds will need to ferment will depend on the surrounding temperatures. During the summer, the fermentation process can take as little as 48 hours.

Storing Your Tomato Seeds

Once the fermentation process is complete, it’s time to clean the seeds. Do this by placing the seeds in a fine strainer, and running water over them. It helps to stir vigorously. The strainer will filter out any waste or immature seeds, leaving only viable tomato seeds.

Then, lay the seeds out on a fine mesh, and place them in a dry, ventilated area.

When drying the seeds it is important that you do not:

      • Dry them on paper (the seeds will stick to the paper, and removing them can cause damage)

      • Place the seeds in the oven

      • Expose the seeds to full sunlight

It is important to remember that ventilation is key to drying the seeds — not heat.

Store the seeds in a glass jar, or in small paper sachets. Make sure to store them in a dry place, free from humidity.

On average, tomato seeds can remain viable for 4 years. However, some seeds can remain viable for up to 10 years or even more.

Conclusion

Now that you know how to take care of tomato plants, you can move up to taking care of trees. Visit Portland Tree Trimming Services to learn more about how to grow and maintain your trees.

Edible Landscaping with Flowering Fruit Trees

Edible Landscaping with Flowering Fruit Trees

Landscape with Edible Flowering Fruit Trees

What if we told you that you could improve the aesthetics of your landscape and bring food to your table with the same plant? Yes that is right, there are a number of fruit trees that offer both fruit and flower blossoms. You can choose fruit trees such as cherry, plum, peach, flowering crabapple and bananas. These are a great way to incorporate edible landscaping to bring function and beauty to your landscape.

Flowering fruit trees are relatively easy to care for and the little effort they require is well worth it. But if you ever find yourself having trouble taking care of them you can always hire the professionals at Evergreen Tree Services. You can add these trees to your backyard as centerpieces or you can plant them along your property borders. While flower blossoms are fleeting you will enjoy fruit after all the pretty blossoms have disappeared.

Edible Landscaping and its Benefits

When you opt to use edibles in your landscaping not only are you getting an improved landscape aesthetic but you are also getting the reward of food. Flowering fruit trees, herbs and bushes can add dimension, color and overall beauty to your landscape. Think berries, nuts, stone fruit, fresh herbs all planted and harvested right there in your yard instead of being purchased from the store. Not only will you be saving money but you will also be sure of what you are putting inside your body. Consider this supply of organic food just a couple steps away in your backyard! What could be better than that?

Adopt sustainable living by growing an edible landscape. Reduce your carbon footprint and make a positive difference for generations to come.

Types of Flowering Fruit Trees

An integral part of any edible garden are flowering trees. While they take a bit of time and effort in the first couple years you should start your landscaping plan with one or a few in mind. Here are some flowering fruit trees you can consider for your landscape.

      1. Peach Trees

      Peaches are very desirable but they need a lot of care. You have to prepare the soil a year in advance for optimum growth and you must protect them from cold temperatures. It is best to choose a cultivar that is considered hardy such as Harken or Redhaven.

      2. Flowering CrabApple Trees

      These trees are loved for their pink and magenta blossoms that come out during April or May. They are easier to grow and maintain than other fruit trees but their fruit is not the type you want to eat fresh. They are best used in jelly, jams and sauces because of their crisp and tart nature.

      3. Plum Trees

      These are great for growing fresh fruit you can enjoy right away. Most of these trees will require cross-pollination so you will need to have at least two varieties within your landscape.

      4. Cherry Trees

      Here is another fruit tree that is beautiful and will provide you with tasty fresh fruit. Try finding a Black Tartarian cultivar as this one is fast growing and will grow well in a number of soil conditions. For best results you will want to grow a couple trees together.

Keep These in Mind When Choosing Fruit Trees

With a lot of variety out there, it can be hard to decide which ones to choose. Here are some tips to help you narrow it all down.

      1. Is the tree a winter survivor outdoors?

      2. Do you understand the solutions for unexpected infections, pests or frost?

      3. Have you prepared the soil ahead of time with the right nutrition in the form of organic compost?

      4. Is your soil pH appropriate for the tree of choice?

      5. Do you have multiple varieties to ensure proper pollination?

      6. How many years before your tree should yield fruit?

Growing fruit trees takes time and patience and they require a good amount of care on your part. But the lush blossoms and the fresh fruit you can yield make it well worth the effort. If you choose to grow an edible landscape you will have a lovely garden that is equally delicious. And if you can’t take on that task right now you can always hire it out to the tree experts at Evergreen Tree Services Limited.

Indoor Herb Gardening

Indoor Herb Gardening

Winter holds a challenge for the avid gardener. After going out to make the landscape as sharp as possible and tend the winter crops of cabbage, Brussel sprouts, and kale, it’s back indoors we go, cooped up while winter has its way. Oh, there’s always dreaming about next spring’s garden--looking at catalogs, planning, drawing--that can be done when back in the house, but what else is there to do while “the weather outside is frightful”?

How about a gardening project that’s active and gets your hands good and dirty even while stuck indoors? What things could be planted and grown in the garage or shed, or even in the house? Ornamental house plants aside, what could be started, tended, and harvested to eat—like gardening outside, but on a much smaller scale, indoors?Believe it or not, one answer to these questions came while watching a TV ad on one of the old movie stations. Hard to believe, yes, but “Chia Pets” (and other Chia products) were advertised again after what must have been at least 30 years! No, this is really not about taking up growing Chia pets as a hobby, but the growing project inspired by seeing Chia pets is an indoor herb garden. An indoor herb garden is a fun and easy project, and can be as simple as ordering a Chia pet (Chia is an herb whose leaves and seeds can be consumed) or as complicated as building a growing shelf with special grow lights and warming pads. Who knows, maybe it’s time to install a garden window at the kitchen sink!

So, an indoor herb garden it is, but which herbs are good for growing indoors? Growing patterns and conditions as well as personal preference affect the choices here. Besides picking herbs we might like to use, factors like height and width of plants, temperature, moisture, light and dark conditions, ease of starting and care, hardiness, etc. all need to be considered.

Growing tips:

      • Find the sunniest window sill in your house; you will have a 5-inch or larger sill. A board can be carefully added on top of the sill to add width.

      • 4-inch pots are the best size; a base under the pot is needed to catch water. TerraCotta pots can be painted. This is a great opportunity to decorate by choosing unique pots or even cups, etc. You may need to buy a jeweler’s bit to add drainage holes, and make sure the pottery you choose is made to handle moisture.

      • Even if you are transplanting from your outdoor garden, it is better to remove as much of the garden soil as possible. Buy potting soil and vermiculite/perlite, mixing them for good drainage.

      • Put the most sun-loving herb varieties in the center of the window, working outward from there. You may need to use a grow light bulb to get enough hours of light for your herbs to be healthy , especially in the winter. Use the provided growing tips/information for the herbs you are planting, and take some time to research them further for best success.

      • Harvest often according to the plants’ characteristics in order to encourage growth. Learn which herbs work best fresh vs dried (it often takes up to three times as much of a fresh-cut herb to equal the effect of dried leaves, etc.).

Here are some herbs to grow indoors:

Basil-- use for Italian dishes, tomato sauce, pesto, vinegars. Can be started from seeds; likes lots of sun and warmth; may need to be replaced every few months.

Bay-- simmer for long periods in soups and stews (remove before serving). Bay or sweet bay (Laurus nobilis), a leaf from a tree in the Laurel family; it is difficult to propagate and is best purchased as a small plant; needs lots of sunlight and demands proper planting and care; makes a beautiful addition to patio/home;

Chervil--like parsley, slightly peppery; delicate, add at the end of cooking time or as garnish; It is perfect with salads, fish, dressings, egg dishes, chicken dishes, and in soups. Starts from seeds; grows well in low light as long as kept warm (room temperature).

*Chives--use for salads and with vegetables; good for making sauces; delicate flavor, add at the end of the cooking process or allow to bloom and float edible flowers in soups/sauces. Starts from seeds; sun-loving, long-lasting.Use rich soil with slow-release fertilizer.

*Mint-- for teas, soups, and salads. Start from seed, although starter plants or cutting sprigs may be easier; sun to partial shade; hardy grower with many varieties available.

*Oregano--standard for Italian cuisine (yum, spaghetti sauce!); dry before using. Start from seed or root section; sun to partial shade; needs good drainage.

Parsley--delicate, peppery, use at end of cooking time or as garnish. Start from seed; like some shade; use rich moist soil; fertilize and keep soil moist.

*Rosemary--Use with meat, especially lamb Best grown from cuttings, trim often to control size; likes full sun; needs good drainage, and keeps soil moist but not damp/soggy.

Sage--Use with poultry, pork, cheese, wine bowl; lemony when in fresh form. Needs full sun, may even require added light; demands good drainage but may also need misting/high humidity.

Tarragon--Use with fish, poultry, omelettes, bearnaise sauce; delicate sweet licorice flavor. Best started from cuttings; demands lots of light, but can’t get too hot. Grows tall (2-4 feet) so use a deep pot (at least 10 inches); can be harvested by stripping leaves once the plant is 8” tall.

*Thyme--Use with fish and poultry. Many uses, edible blossoms. Start from cuttings; full sun is best; grows in dry conditions;hardy, low profile.

If you have trees you want to take care of, hiring a tree care service such as Portland Tree Trimming Services can help you go a long way in keeping your flora at top quality.

Troubleshooting Tomato Problems

Planting Tomatoes

Who doesn’t love the taste of fresh homegrown tomatoes? Still, growing them could be a bit tricky. Challenges common to tomato plants include yellowing fruit, cracking fruit and wilting leaves. To keep your tomato plants healthy, and looking their best you want to have the knowledge to identify, treat and prevent the most common problems you can face with a tomato plant. So let’s get into these problems one by one.

Sunscald

This is found on green fruit that has experienced overexposure to the sun. It is evidenced by an initial white spot. As the tomato ripens, the spot gets larger and becomes a grayish, white color. Decay causing organisms typically attack these spots, worsening the situation.

To prevent sunscald, ensure you are not over pruning your tomato plants. The foliage is necessary to shade and protect your tomato fruit. If you find you have fruit exposed to the sun, you can cover them with some shade cloth to provide the necessary protection.

Hornworms

Hornworms can quickly ruin your tomato plants. Once you see them, it is important to seek pest management immediately. Hornworms will grow to be as long as 4 inches and have their horn at their rear end. They defoliate your tomato plant, leaving large holes in your tomatoes. They leave black droppings on the leaves of the plants, and this is often how you can tell that these are the pests you are dealing with.

When you see the actual worms, pick them off the plants, as well as use an appropriate insecticide. Look for an insecticide that's specifically made for hornworms or that contains Bacillus Thuringiensis. If the worms have white sacs on them, leave these alone. The white sacs are parasite wasp cocoons, which will eventually kill the hornworms.

Early Blight

Early blight is a fungal disease that is often seen after or during warm temperatures, periods of rain and high humidity. You will see the blight on the bottoms of the leaves first. They appear as concentric dark rings resembling a bull’s eye and irregular dark brown spots. The spots are typically surrounded by yellow leaf tissue. The leaves eventually turn yellow and fall, leaving the fruits exposed. The fruits then fall prey to sunscald. Older fruit usually develops sunken leathery spots with circular markings.

To prevent these fungal spores from taking over your plants, mulch them. This way, if there are any disease spores, they will not splash them onto the plants during watering. Try not to water the plants from above, especially later in the day. Remove leaves and other plant parts that are diseased. When you have a plant experiencing early blight, you should not plant tomatoes, eggplants or peppers in the same spot for at least 3 years.

Cracking

If your tomatoes are presenting with circular or radial cracks, this is because the fruit is growing too quickly. This tends to happen when weather conditions change rapidly. Likely culprits are drought and high temperature, followed by a spell of heavy rain.

To avoid this, you should give your tomato plants regular irrigation when you are going through a drought or other dry weather. You can also add mulch, which will help the plant retain moisture.

Blossom-end Rot

This is characterized by a water-soaked spot at the blossom end or base of the tomato. The spot later develops into a leathery brown scar. This will happen if your tomato plants are not receiving consistent irrigation. When the tomato plants experience uneven water levels, the developing fruit will become calcium deficient, even if the soil has adequate amounts of calcium.

To prevent and treat blossom-end rot, you will need to maintain consistent moisture levels. You also want to avoid fertilizers that are high in nitrogen. Add a liquid calcium supplement into the water you are using to irrigate your plants, as well as to ensure they are getting adequate calcium.

Here at Evergreen Tree Services, we have many tips for garden and lawn maintenance. And whenever you need more than that, we have the professionals to help you design, create and maintain the landscape of your dreams. We are just a call away.

Identifying and Treating Insect Problems in Roses

Identifying and Treating Insect Problems in Roses

With the right care and attention, roses can provide you with beauty for many years. But even with the best care your roses may sometimes fall prey to pests and diseases they cause. Oftentimes there is something that goes wrong causing your plants to become attractive to pests. It could be a lack of nutrition, a lack of water, inadequate drainage or poor soil conditions. These issues can encourage pests and diseases to take over your roses.

You will find that roses can either be affected by living pathogens as well as by environmental conditions. When the damage to your roses is uniform it most likely is a cultural or environmental problem. But if you see damage that is not uniform then chances are your problem is a living pathogen.

Assessing Symptoms and Causes

      1. Symptom - Small insects on leaves and buds

      Cause - Aphids. These are usually black, red or green bugs approximately ⅛” long. They are often found in clusters and mainly seen on new growth. They tend to appear in spring and can stick around until summer.

      Treatment - Start off by hosing off the plant with water. This will remove the insects. If they keep coming back you can try a mixture of water and dish soap to spray the bugs. The next step in treatment would be to find an effective commercial insecticidal spray. You can also look out for aerosol insecticides that are specifically for killing aphids. You can find all you need from your local garden center.

      2. Symptom - Distorted buds and discolored bloom tips.

      Cause - Thrips. These are small light brown insects that are ⅛” long. They tend to appear inside petals and are spread by the wind. They move quickly so you have to stop them in their tracks fast!

      Treatment - Look for a systemic insecticide that targets Thrips specifically. Apply this with your new growth when it grows to 1” or more in the spring. You can rotate your treatments when your rose buds are still pea sized.

      3. Symptom - Stuck together leaves and holes in unopened buds.

      Cause - The omnivorous leaf roller. This is a moth larva that makes a cocoon with rose plant leaves.

      Treatment - Remove all the cocoons from the rose plant. You can further treat leaves with a systemic insecticide that targets these leaf rollers. Apply to plants when new growth is 1” or more in the spring. You can use contact treatments on a rotational basis.

      4. Symptom - Yellow and fuzzy leaf surface with small red specks, webbing and spider like insects on the underside.

     Cause - The Spidermite. These are microscopic but you can still see them with the naked eye. They tend to thrive in hot weather.

      Treatment - There’s quite a number of treatments for these. Use horticultural oils, insecticidal soap, a high pressure hose with water or miticides. Apply treatment to the undersides of leaves. In hot weather, keep your plants adequately watered and don’t allow dust to sit on the leaves.

For more tips on treating pests in gardens and landscapes, visit our website. We have certified arborists along with tree and plant care specialists on staff to help you take care of the plants in your surroundings. We cater to both residential and commercial clientele and would love to help you maintain your plants and landscape.