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WHAT IS THE G.S.D.C. OF W.PA?
The German Shepherd Dog Club of Western Pennsylvania was founded and incorporated in 1960, and was recognized by the American Kennel Club and the Parent Club in 1961. It is a Non-Profit Organization who's goals are to educated the public and promote the German Shepherd Dog. It's members are people of all ages and from all walks of life who share one common bond, Their love for and devotion to the German Shepherd Dog.
Educational meetings are held bi-monthly and are open to the public. Guest speakers cover all aspects of raising, training and showing German Shepherd Dogs. Board of Directors meetings are held the first Friday of every month. For meeting information, please contact the club Secretary. Demo to local area schools to teach children how to be approach dogs, basic care and general information.
The clubs's newsletter, The Jotter, is sent free to members quarterly. Subscriptions are available to non-members (see Jotter information page for details). The Jotter has been cited many times in the past years with Honorable Mention awards in the German Shepherd Dog Club of America Newsletter contest. In 1984, 85,89,90 and 91,93,94,97 and 99 the Jotter was selected Best Newsletter in National competition by the GSDC of America.
Awards plaques are presented to members who complete AKC titles on their dogs at an annual awards dinner.
The German Shepherd Dog Club of Western Pennsylvania sponsors puppy matches ("Mock" dog shows) and also hold two AKC sanctioned German Shepherd Specialty shows yearly. Our fall show also features an Obedience Trial.
Who is the German Shepherd Dog Club of Western Pennsylvania?
IT'S HARD WORKING, DEDICATED PEOPLE WHO ARE DEVOTED TO THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG. IT'S PEOPLE LIKE YOU! WON'T YOU COME JOIN US?
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Standard
General Appearance -The first impression of a good German Shepherd Dog is that of a strong, agile, well-muscled animal, alert and full of life. It is well balanced, with harmonious development of the forequarter and hind quarter. The dog is longer than tall, deep-bodied, and presents an outline of smooth curves rather than angles. It looks substantial and not spindly, giving the impression, both at rest and in motion, of muscular fitness and nimbleness without any look of clumsiness or soft living. The ideal dog is stamped with a look of quality and nobility - difficult to define, but unmistakable when present. Secondary sex characteristics are strongly marked, and every animal gives a definite impression of masculinity or femininity, according to its sex.
Character - The breed has a distinct personality marked by direction and fearless, but not hostile, expression, self-confidence and a certain aloofness that does not lend itself to immediate and indiscriminate friendships. The dog must be approachable, quietly standing its ground and showing confidence and willingness to meet overtures without itself making them. It is poised, but when the occasion demands , eager and alert; both fit and willing to serve in its capacity as companion, watchdog, blind leader, herding dog, or guardian, whichever the circumstances may demand. The dog must not be timid, shrinking behind its master or handler; it should not be nervous, looking about or upward with anxious expression or showing nervous reactions, such as tucking of tail, to strange sounds or sights. Lack of confidence under any surroundings is not typical of good character. Any of the above deficiencies in character which indicate shyness must be penalized as very serious faults and any dog exhibiting pronounced indications of these must be excused from the ring. It must be possible for the judge to observe the teeth and to determine that both testicles are descended. Any dog that attempts to bite the judge must be disqualified. The ideal dog is a working animal with an incorruptible character combined with body and gait suitable for the arduous work that constitutes it primary purpose.
Head - The head is noble, cleanly chiseled, strong without coarseness, but above all not fine, and in proportion to the body. The head of the male is distinctly masculine, and that of the bitch distinctly feminine. The muzzle is long and strong with the lips firmly fitted, and its topline is parallel to the topline of the skull. Seen from the front, the forehead is only moderately arched, and the skull slopes into the long, wedge-shaped muzzle without abrupt stop. Jaws are strongly developed. Ears -Ears are moderately pointed, in proportion to the skull, open toward the front, and carried erect when at attention, the ideal carriage being one in which the center lines of the ears, viewed from the front, are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the ground. A dog with cropped or hanging ears must be disqualified. Eyes - Of medium size, almond shaped, set a little obliquely and not protruding. The color is as dark as possible. The expression keen, intelligent and composed. Teeth - 42 in number - 20 upper and 22 lower - are strongly developed and meet in a scissors bite in which part of the inner surface of the upper incisors meet and engage part of the out surface of the lower incisors. An overshot jaw or a level bite is undesirable. An undershot jaw is a disqualifying fault. Complete dentition is to be preferred. Any missing teeth other than first premolars is a serious fault.
Neck - The neck is strong and muscular, clean-cut and relatively long., proportionate in size to the head and without loose folds of skin. When the dog is at attention or excited, the head is raised and the neck carried high; otherwise typical carriage of the head is forward rather than up and but little higher than the top of the shoulder, particularly in motion.
Forequarters - The shoulder blades are long and obliquely angled, laid on flat and not placed forward. The upper arm joins the shoulder blade at about a right angle. Both the upper arm and the shoulder blade are well muscled. The forelegs, viewed from all sides, are straight and the bone oval rather than round. The pasterns are strong and springy and angulated at approximately a 25 degree angle from the vertical.
Feet - The feet are short, compact, with toes well arched, pads thick and fir, nails short and dark. The dewclaws, if any, should be removed from the hind legs. Dewclaws on the forelegs may be removed but are normally left on.
Proportion - The German Shepherd Dog is longer than tall, with the most desirable proportion as 10 to 8 1/2. The desired height for males at the top of the highest point of the shoulder blade is 24 to 26 inches; and for bitches 22 to 24 inches. The length is measured from the point of the prosternum or breastbone to the rear edge of the pelvis, the ischial tuberosity.
Body - The whole structure of the body gives an impression of depth and solidity without bulkiness. Chest -Commencing at the prosternum, it is well filled and carried well down between the legs. It is deep and capacious, never shallow, with ample room for lungs and heart, carried well forward, with the prosternum showing ahead of the shoulder profile. Ribs - Well sprung and long, neither barrel-shaped nor too flat, and carried down to a sternum which reaches to the elbows. Correct ribbing allows the elbows to move back freely when the dog is at a trot. Too round
causes interference and throws the elbows out; too flat or short causes pinched elbows. Ribbing is carried well back so that the loin is relatively short. Abdomen -Firmly held and not paunchy. The bottom line is only moderately tucked up in the loin.
Topline - Withers - The withers are higher than and sloping into the level back.
Back - The back is straight, very strongly developed without sag or roach, and relatively short. The desirable long proportion is not derived from a long back, but from over all length with relation to height, which is achieved by length of forequarter and length of withers and hindquarter, viewed from the side. Loin - Viewed from the top, broad and strong. Undue length between the last rib and the thigh when viewed from the side is undesirable. Croup - Long and gradually sloping.
Tail - Bushy, with the last vertebra extended at least to the hock joint. It is set smoothly into the croup and low rather than high. At rest, the tail hangs in a slight curve like a saber. A slight hook - sometimes carried to one side - is faulty only to the extent that it mars general appearance. When the dog is excited or in motion, the curve is accentuated and the tail raised, but it should never be curled forward beyond a vertical line. Tails too short, or with clumpy ends due to ankylosis, are serious faults. A dog with a docked tail must be disqualified.
Hindquarters - The whole assembly of the thigh, viewed from the side, is broad, with both upper and lower thigh well muscled, forming as nearly as possible a right angle. The upper thigh bone parallels the shoulder blade while the lower thigh bone parallels the upper arm. The metatarsus (the unit between the hock joint and the foot) is short, strong and tightly articulated.
Gait - A German Shepherd Dog is a trotting dog, and its structure has been developed to meet the requirements of its work. General Impressions - The gait is outreaching, elastic, seemingly without effort, smooth and rhythmic, covering the maximum amount of ground with the minimum number of steps. At a walk it covers a great deal of ground, with long stride of both hind legs and forelegs. At a trot the dog covers still more ground with even longer stride, and moves powerfully but easily, with co-ordination and balance so that the gait appears to be the steady motion of a well-lubricated machine. The feet travel close to the ground on both forward reach and backward push. In order to achieve ideal movement of this kind, there must be good muscular development and ligamentation. The hindquarters deliver, through the back, a powerful forward thrust which slightly lifts the whole animal and drives the body forward. Reaching far under, and passing the imprint left by the front foot, the hind foot takes hold of the ground; then hock, stifle and upper thigh come into play and sweep back, the stroke of the hind leg finishing with the foot still close to the ground in a smooth follow-through. The over-reach of the hindquarter usually necessitates one hind foot passing outside and the other hind foot passing inside the track of the forefeet, and such action is not faulty unless the locomotion is crabwise and the dogs body sideways out of the normal straight line.
Transmission - The typical smooth, flowing gait is maintained with great strength and firmness of back. The whole effort of the hindquarter is transmitted to the forequarter through the loin, back and withers. At full trot, the back must remain firm and level without sway, roll, whip or roach. Unlevel topline with withers lower than the hip is a fault. To compensate for the forward motion imparted by the hindquarters, the shoulder should open to its full extent. The forelegs should reach out close to the ground in long stride in harmony with that of the hindquarters. The dog does not track on widely separated parallel lines, but brings the feet inward toward the middle line of the body when trotting in order to maintain balance. The feet track closely but do no strike or cross over. Viewed from the front, the front legs function from the shoulder joint to the pad in a straight line. Viewed from the rear, the hind legs function from the hip joint to the pad in a straight line. Faults of gait, whether from front, rear or side, are to be considered very serious faults.
Color - The German Shepherd Dog varies in color, and most colors are permissible. Strong rich colors are preferred. Nose black. Pale, washed out colors and blues or livers are serious faults. A white dog or a dog with a nose that is not predominantly black, must be disqualified.
Coat - The ideal dog has a double coat of medium length. The outer coat should be as dense as possible, hair straight, harsh and lying close to the body. A slightly wavy outer coat, often of wiry texture, is permissible. The head, including the inner ear and foreface, and the legs and paws are covered with short hair, and the neck with longer thicker hair. The rear of the forelegs and hind legs has somewhat longer hair extending to the pastern and hock, respectively. Faults in coat include soft, silky, too long outer coat, woolly, curly, and open coat.
Disqualification's
Cropped or hanging ears.
Undershot jaw.
Docked Tail.
White Dogs.
Dogs with noses not predominantly black.
Any dog that attempts to bite the judge.
Approved February 11, 1978
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DISEASES
PANOSTEITIS - Known as "Pano", "Growing Pains" or "Wandering Lameness". The cause of this disease is unknown. It usually starts at 5-6 months of age and can last up to 2 years of age then disappears. Most dogs recover - but if severely affected some may never gain full muscle strength. Characteristic signs of the disease is usually pain and lameness that seems to move from one leg to another, front or rear and can last weeks or possibly months. Often a fever is noted also. Xrays may be taken - they will show the inflammation in the bone. Since the cause is unknown the treatment is directed towards the pain. In mild cases one treatment is 2 aspirin coated to protect the stomach (not acedeminpheon, Tylenol) for 30 days. If it is severe your vet will usually prescribe a pain medication such as Butazolidin. Pano is sometimes miss diagnosed as Hip Dysplasia, Xray will determine which it is.
CANINE HIP DYSPLASIA - Is when the head of the femur (thigh bone) does not fit properly in the socket. It is graded on the severity of the joint changes as seen on Xrays.
Mild - minor deviation
Moderate - Erosion of Joint - hips move out of socket and arthritic change.
Severe - The socket is flat or shallow - the femur is rough and arthritic changes prominent.
Signs appear during rapid growth around 4-9 months. A puppy may show the following - pain in the hip - walk with a limp - bunny hop when he runs or difficulty in getting up.
ELBOW DYSPLASIA - Basically the same as hip dysplasia only in the elbow.
* If you suspect "Pano" "Hip Dysplasia" or "Elbow Dysplasia" it is recommended that you have your dog Xrayed to verify the condition and initiate treatment.
MYELOPATHY - A spinal disease that usually first appears around 8 years of age. It is sometimes confused with hip dysplasia in older dogs - because the dogs drag their hind feet, wobble in the rear and have trouble getting up. The disease causes rapid deterioration and the owner will usually have to Euthanize the dog.
BLOAT - The swelling of the stomach from gas, fluid or both. If the stomach rotates and twists this is called Torsion. Signs from early to late stages: Pacing & restlessness, Distention of the abdomen, rapid shallow breathing, no productive vomiting, salivation, coma. Specific causes are unknown, some theories are eating and drinking large quantities, various kinds of dog foods, eating before or after vigorous exercise or eating fermented food. Bloat is a life threatening disease, if you suspect bloat call your veterinarian immediately..
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*Where to Buy a German Shepherd Puppy
It is NOT recommended that you purchase your German Shepherd puppy from a pet shop. Many pet stores purchase their puppies from "puppy mills", both local and out-of-state. These dogs are bred with only one purpose in mind: TO MAKE MONEY. Quality, good health and good temperament are not important to the puppy mill breeder.....all that matters is quantity. Out-of-state puppies are shipped at a very young age to the pet store-- an experience that is very stressful to a small puppy. At the pet store, they are confined for very long hours in small cubicles; lack proper exercise; and most important, lack proper socialization.
Also, avoid the $50.00 or $100.00 bargain found in the pet ad column of the local paper. People have no knowledge of good dog structure and who breed without regard to the quality of the dog may be producing physically and mentally unsound dogs. That $50.00 bargain may not be such a bargain in the long run when it comes to extensive medical bills to correct physical or health problems -- or worse yet, uncorrectable poor temperament.
You should purchase your puppy from a reputable German Shepherd breeder. A reputable breeder is breeding for good quality dog -- one that is physically sound, healthy, has good temperament and conforms to the German Shepherd Dog standard. The breeder's goal is to produce the best possible dog he can. The reputable breeder is breeding for the improvement of his breed.
We urge you to buy from a breeder who is willing to guarantee his dog. A written sales contract speaks well of the reputation of an honest breeder, and protects the puppy buyer. Have ALL agreements in writing.
Click here for GSDC of WPA Breeders
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*How Much Will You Pay?
A German Shepherd puppy from a reputable breeder will cost approximately $400.00 and up. If this price seems high, remember that $50.00 "Bargain" we mentioned earlier. The reputable breeder puts a lot of money into his breeding program: a good quality sire and dam, special diets, x-rays for hips and excellent puppy care. Unlike your neighbor next door, who knows noting about breeding dogs and will sell his puppies to remodel his kitchen or go on vacation, the reputable breeder's money goes back into his dogs and his breeding program.
If you honestly cannot afford $400.00 for a German Shepherd puppy, you may well not be able to afford to feed your German Shepherd Dog....or provide him with adequate medical care if he should need it.
One last thing to remember is that a high price DOES NOT necessarily mean that the breeder is reputable. Always check with a local German Shepherd Dog Club or a local Kennel Club to make sure.
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*Why Buy a German Shepherd Puppy?
Each person has his or her own personal reasons for wanting to own a German Shepherd Dog. Some have admired the German Shepherd as a guide dog for the blind. Others, perhaps, have fond memories of owning a German Shepherd Dog as a child. Some have admired the German Shepherd Dog as depicted in the movies or on television -- such as Strongheart or Rin Tin Tin. Still others simply fell in love with the beauty and nobility of the German Shepherd Dog.
But is the German Shepherd Dog the right dog for you? There is more to consider when buying a dog than just the physical characteristics that appeal to your tastes, or the sentimental feelings you may have over canine movie stars.
German Shepherd puppies -- like all puppies -- require much of your time, attention and money. Your puppy will have to be fed three times a day; he will have to be housebroken; and he will have to learn to obey some basic rules while living with you. There will be veterinarian bills -- for shots (DHL, Parvo and Rabies); for worm checks; for spaying or neutering fees if needed or desired; and for any problems that may occur. There will be food bills. Small German Shepherd puppies grow into rather large German Shepherd Dogs. Obviously, a German Shepherd will consume much more food than a Toy Poodle or a Chihuahua. There will be shedding -- German Shepherd do shed their "second coat" or "undercoat" when living indoors. All of these things should be considered before you buy a German Shepherd puppy.
If you plan on buying a German Shepherd puppy so that your 10 year old child can learn responsibility of raising a dog, think carefully! A puppy -- as well as a full grown dog -- depends entirely on his master for his total well-being: food, water, and physical care. In this respect, your puppy is very much like a small baby. You would not think of putting a baby's well-being entirely into the hands of a 10 year old child, and you should not consider placing your dog in that situation. This would be unfair to both the child and the dog. If the child tires of all duties, and the parents refuse to take the responsibility, then the abandoned puppy is the one that will suffer the most. This is not to say that a 10 year old cannot help out on the feeding and walking chores, but do not expect a 10 year old to take full responsibility for your dog. Your child will give the dog a most important contribution -- that of attention, friendship and love.
The German Shepherd Dog needs to exist and be very much a part of the family unit to reach his full potential as a companion to man. Therefore, you should not consider purchasing a German Shepherd Dog if your plans are to merely chain him in the backyard or lock him in the garage and occasionally give him attention when you have a spare moment. German Shepherd puppies need a lot of socialization with new people and new places when they are young. They need to be included in family activities and even family outings. If you do not think you will have the time to socialize and incorporate your German Shepherd puppy into your family lifestyle, and if you are not willing to make your German Shepherd puppy a part of your family, then it is best NOT to purchase a puppy at all.
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*Pet Quality vs. Show Quality
The exact price of your puppy may depend on whether you purchase a puppy as a pet or as a show prospect.
Show quality puppies will cost more than pet quality puppies. When you buy a show prospect, it is with the understanding that you will show the dog at AKC dog shows. This can be a very costly and time-consuming past-time. This puppy will have the special qualities that the breeder believes will make him a winner in the show ring. There is no guarantee that your puppy will ever win first prize or obtain a Champion title. Do not be offended if a breeder refuses to sell you a show quality puppy (even if you are willing to pay a high price) if you do not want to show it. The breeder has put a lot of hard work and much money into his breeding program.... and when he breeds a puppy he feels will do well in the show ring, he wants to make sure it will be shown.
The majority of the puppies in the litter will be pet quality. These puppies will be lower in price, BUT EVERY BIT AS HEALTHY AND SOUND as those few show quality pups. The pet puppies may lack that extra something that will make the show prospect stand out in the show ring (the pet puppy may have too light an eye, too short a coat, too long or short a tail or neck), but they will make excellent companions and will grow up to be loyal and devoted German Shepherd Dogs. They will be just as handsome, and those minor flaws mentioned before will probably not even be noticed by the average person. Remember that NO dog -- not even a Champion -- is perfect
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*Obedience Training
It is highly recommended that you consider obedience training your German Shepherd puppy. A good time to start is sometime between the ages of four and six months, however, a dog is never too old to begin training. That cute -- but uncontrollable -- little puppy will grow up very quickly to be a large -- and not so cute -- uncontrollable adult dog. Attending an obedience class with a qualified instructor will teach you to teach your dog basic commands such as "sit", "down", "come", "stay" and "heel". Your dog will become a better companion and pet -- and much easier to live with.
If you plan to skip the classes and teach your dog on your own, consider this; a qualified instructor will be able to help you overcome training obstacles you may encounter...as well as help with other general problems such as housebreaking, barking, chewing, etc. By attending a class, your dog will learn to obey you not only in your backyard, but in situations with other dogs and people around him. Also, attending an obedience class is good socializing experience for your German Shepherd puppy.
The German Shepherd Dog is a highly intelligent animal, and you should help develop his character to its full potential by obedience training your dog. Many at-home pet behavior problems can be solved simply by basic obedience training.
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*Guard Dog and Attack Training
Guard dog training does have its place in society. The armed forces and many police departments have utilized the German Shepherd Dog effectively in protection programs over the years. These dogs have performed admirably and with merit in the line of duty. It takes a special type of German Shepherd Dog to be successful in protection-type work. The dog must be of very stable temperament, above average intelligence, and both physically and mentally sound. Needless to say, it is only a very few that are chosen for these special canine jobs.
There is also a place where attack and protection train should NOT be found -- and that is in the home. Many people buy a German Shepherd Dog with idea that they will attack or guard-train the dog to protect their home. Incompetent guard dog training -- either by the owner who uses a book, or by a local "self-proclaimed" expert -- is a dangerous thing. A dog that is not trained properly, or a dog who does not have a stable enough temperament to be trained properly, is like a time-bomb ready to explode...and the results may be disastrous and heart-breaking.
The German Shepherd Dog that is raised properly with love and gentle-but-firm discipline will have a natural instinct to protect his loved ones, if need be. More important, your German Shepherd Dog will naturally bean alarm dog -- letting you know when something is amiss so that you can call the police. The concept of attack training a dog to protect your home and property is ridiculous. A piece of poisoned meat, a blow to the head, or a gun shot will stop any dog (attack trained or not) from protecting your home. No dog will stop a professional burglar from entering your home if he's determined to enter it. However, the mere presence of any dog, including a German Shepherd Dog, will probably cause an amateur burglar to think twice. Even a professional will find it much easier to break into the house next door that does not have a dog.
For the average home owner, attack training is senseless -- and quite a risk. So please, leave the canine protection work to the police and military...and enjoy your German Shepherd Dog as a companion and friend.
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*Reading a Pedigree
Although the pedigree may seem confusing at first, understanding the form and then the abbreviations by the names will make it easy to read. The pedigree is simply your dog's family tree...his ancestors. The diagram below shows a typical pedigree form without names. The sire (father) and his ancestors are found on the top portion of the pedigree, while the dam (mother) and her ancestors are on the lower portion.
EXPLANATION OF ABBREVIATIONS
Below are some of the most common abbreviations you will find in a pedigree, and a short explanation of just what they mean:
CH = CHAMPION - Title awarded to dog who earns points for how closely he conforms to the Standard of the perfect German Shepherd Dog.
AM CAN CH = AMERICAN CANADIAN CHAMPION - Dog who has earned the Champion title in both America and Canada.
SEL CH = SELECT CHAMPION - One of several dogs and bitches selected
at the German Shepherd Dog Club of America National Specialty
Show as runners-up to the Grand Victor or Victrix.
GV = GRAND VICTOR - The #1 dog selected at the National Specialty
Show each year.
GVX = GRAND VICTRIX - The #1 bitch selected at the National Specialty Show each year.
ROM = REGISTER OF MERIT - Title earned by a dog or bitch as a proven producer of Champions and winning progeny.
OFA = ORTHOPEDIC FOUNDATION FOR ANIMALS - Certification,
accompanied by a number, stating that the dog is free of hip
dysplasia.
CD = COMPANION DOG - First obedience title earned.
CDX = COMPANION DOG EXCELLENT - Second highest obedience title.
UD = UTILITY DOG - Third highest obedience title
UDX = UTILITY DOG EXCELLENT - Highest obedience title
OTCH = OBEDIENCE TRIAL CHAMPION - Title awarded to dog who has earned all obedience titles, and has earned points by consistently being
a High Scoring Dog in Trial.
T,TD,TX,TDX = TRACKING DOG or TRACKING DOG EXCELLENT - Tracking title.
SCH I II III = SCHUTZHUND - German title for dog that has passed tests in
obedience, tracking and protection training.
PTD = POINTED - Dog has earned points towards Champion title
MAJ PTD = MAJOR POINTED - Dog has earned major points toward
Champion title.
ROM PTS = ROM POINTS - Dog has earned points toward ROM title.
Your breeder should be able to answer any and all questions you may have concerning the pedigree and how to read it.
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*THE FIRST DAY HOME
Taking your new puppy home is a new and sometimes frightening experience for the puppy. He will be adjusting to a new home; a new schedule; and a new family. Make sure that his first few days in his new home are relatively quiet and relaxed. If you have children, teach them to be gentle and soothing the first few days - and don't allow them to overwhelm the puppy with teasing and rough play
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*HEALTH CARE
FEEDING: It is important to your puppy's growth that he receive a good quality, balanced diet. Most of the national brand-name puppy and dog foods will provide a well-balanced diet. DO NOT, however, give your puppy Generic dog food, off-brands or a diet of only "People" food. These do not contain the nutrients needed for your puppy to grow up healthy. Feed your puppy just enough that he eats it all in about 15 minutes and does not give the appearance of having eaten his last supper. Don't leave food down for him to finish later -- this only creates bad habits. Table scraps added to his meal may encourage him to become a "picky" eater. A well-balanced brand-name dog food is the best way to go.
INOCULATIONS: Your breeder should give you information on what shots are necessary to complete the series after you take your puppy home. Your vet will also advise you as to when you should have your puppy's Rabies shot. Many dog owners do not realize that once their puppies receive these shots, them must be boostered YEARLY. Your dog should receive a DHLPP(Distemper-Hepatitis-Leptospirosis-Para Influenza-Parvovirus) shot yearly, and a Rabies shot at least every two years. Don't neglect this important aspect of your dog's welfare!
WORMING: Your puppy would be checked for worms when you take him to your vet for his next shot. After that, if clear, he should be checked every six months (unless there is a problem - then he should be checked more frequently).
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*CRATE TRAINING
What exactly is a crate? A crate is simply a portable, metal (wire) cage. While many people are at first adverse to using a crate with their puppy, they soon realize the many benefits of crate-training a puppy. If you bring your puppy home in a crate, he automatically has his very own place to sleep. He will learn that his crate is a secure place to stay, to sleep and to escape from the exhausting challenges of simply being a puppy. Because the crate is portable, he can spend his first night in the bedroom...in the company of this new family...instead of being isolated in the kitchen or basement. If puppy is kept in his crate while you go out for the evening, you can enjoy yourself, knowing that puppy has not chewed the sofa or soiled the carpet while you were out. Which brings us to the crate's biggest benefit:
HOUSEBREAKING
Puppies, like human babies, are not born with control over their bodily functions. They must learn control. Puppies who are "paper-trained" are learning to go to the bathroom in the house. The crate is the easiest and quickest way to housebreak a puppy.
puppies need to go to the bathroom frequently:
1. First thing in the morning after waking
2. After playing or excitement
3. After a nap (or after being let out of the crate).
4. After eating or drinking water
5. Before bedtime
Develop a schedule and stick to it. When puppy is in the house, he should be watched CAREFULLY....keep him in the room with you. A good idea is to purchase an inexpensive plastic drop-cloth and keep him on it while playing, until you can trust him. If he shows any signs of restlessness, sniffing, circling, whining or squatting, take him out immediately. Praise him for going outside, then bring him back in. If you wish to play with him outside, bring him in and then take him back out. Then he will not forget that the purpose of going out was to go to the bathroom - not play. Try to take him to the same spot in the yard each and every time. You will find it most helpful to take him out on a leash. When you cannot be with him in the house to watch him, put him in his crate. Dogs are clean animals and will not soil their bed, except out of necessity. If you develop a schedule; watch puppy carefully while in the house; use a drop cloth; and crate him when you cannot be with him, you will not have an accident. And if you do have an accident, it will be YOUR fault for not keeping an eye on him or not crating him. Do remember that if you get up at 6:00 a.m. each morning Monday through Friday and let puppy out, don't expect to sleep until 9:00 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Puppy knows his schedule and at his tender age, will not be able to hold himself three extra hours. A good rule of thumb for the first month is to take puppy out as frequently as every 20-30 minutes during the day, and to crate puppy when not watching him. He will quickly learn that he is to go to the bathroom outside.
While a crate is a good place to keep puppy all night and when you must leave the house for a few hours, it is not recommended that you crate him all day if you work. 8-10 hours during the day is much too long for an active puppy, and he will then have to soil his crate out of necessity. Have someone come in periodically to let him out; confine him to a larger, safe area, or build puppy an outside pen with shelter.
Our last warning: NEVER leave a collar on the puppy while in the crate. The collar could get caught and choke the puppy to death.
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*CHAINING
It is highly recommended that you do NOT chain your German Shepherd dog or puppy. The German Shepherd is a protective breed -- he knows his property and will be protective of it. When chained, the dog knows just how far the chain will reach. At that point, the dog draws an invisible line in front of himself. Take the dog off the chain, and the line is still there in his mind...he has been conditioned to e protective of his "line". Thus, the dog becomes apprehensive of anyone approaching him.A fence is the best means of keeping your dog on your property. If you are unable to fence your yard, a "dog run" or "dog pen" can be erected rather inexpensively -- some dog runs are "portable", so that if you move, they can move with you. This will keep your dog safely on your property. Your dog will be protective of the fence, but when out of the enclosure, he will not have that "invisible line" to be protective of.
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*GOOD MANNERS
After your puppy has settled into your household, it is important that he learns the rules of becoming a good companion and pet. At no time should you allow your puppy to growl at you or bite you -- not even when playing. Your puppy should allow you to take away his food bowl, his bone, or his favorite toy. If he should ever growl, nip, or bite, be firm and tell him "NO!" in a no-nonsense tone of voice.
One of the major causes of growling and biting in both the both the puppy and later, in the older dog, is "rough housing". When you rough-house or wrestle with your puppy, you are doing two things: 1) you are making the puppy unnecessarily excitable and uncontrollable; and 2) you are teaching the puppy that it is OK to bite you. Later, when puppy is an older dog, he will not understand why it is not alright to use his mouth to bite. The same premise goes for the game of "tug-of-war". Here, you are teaching the puppy to use his mouth to challenge you -- and even win! Play constructive games, such as retrieving a ball or Frisbee.As mentioned before, the most successful way to teach your puppy good manners is to obedience train him.
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*GROOMING
(NAILS - EARS - TEETH - COAT)
Basic grooming is important in keeping your puppy -- and later on, your full grown dog -- both healthy and happy. Although the German Shepherd is not a dog that requires extensive grooming and clipping, he still needs some basic grooming.
NAILS - Nails should be kept trim. This is accomplished best by trimming the nails every few weeks. You can purchase a nail clipper from most any pet store or supplies (they are quite inexpensive) and the job is not a difficult one, even for the average person. Start while the puppy is young, so that he becomes used to your clipping his nails. If you clip weekly, or every other week, you will only have to take a little bit of the tip off -- making the job easy for both you and your dog. Long nails are uncomfortable for your dog, and in some instances, can even cripple him.
EARS - Ears should be kept clean, simply by swabbing the portion of the ear that is visible to you. Be alert to your dog shaking his head or scratching at his ears -- or a foul odor coming from the ear canal. These signs can signal problems that may require veterinarian attention.
If you German Shepherd puppy's ears are not up at the base by 5-6 months of age, it would be a good idea to call and let your breeder know. Your breeder may want you to "tape" the ears in a certain way, to help them come up straight. Also, be aware that ears may come back down, even slightly, during the time your puppy is teething.
TEETH - During the teething stages, your puppy will be losing his baby (milk) teeth and getting his permanent teeth. At this time, his gums may be sore and he will chew to relieve them. Supply your puppy with enough chew bones and chew toys during these time. DO NOT give him an old slipper or shoe to chew on, or he will believe that all shoes are chew toys.
Once the permanent teeth have come in, they do need to be checked occasionally by your veterinarian. Your dog's teeth, just like your own, can collect tartar build-up. Check your dog's teeth periodically, as tartar can lead to gum disease and loss of teeth.
COAT - Your German Shepherd's coat will require weekly brushing to keep it healthy and shiny. Occasionally, he will need bathing. Fleas are always a problem that the pet owner must keep ahead of. Any unusual skin or coat problems should be brought to the attention of your veterinarian.
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