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MACEDONIA

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I went to Macedonia in the summer of 1998 when the weather was hot, the tourists were going wild, and I had no clue what to do with my own life. The only thing that I can say about that country is that it amazed me with its contrasts. On one hand there is the famous Ohrid lake, where some pretty fashionable resorts are built. On the other hand, just a few kilometers deeper in the country one sees ordinary small Eastern European small towns with dubious Gipsy atmosphere surrounding the public markets and extremely friendly people speaking some funny version of my language (don't forget that I am Bulgarian and both languages are practically the same, whatever the politicians say). What you see in this picture is me smiling right in the center of Ohrid. The beautiful southern architecture of the houses behind me is very calm and typical for Southeastern Europe. The bars and the clubs in the town follow the French pattern--with tables and chairs turned towards the streets, while the local guys discuss the passing girls over their drinks.

This is the famous church Saint Sofia, which surprisingly enough gave the name of my hometown Sofia. The church is one of the biggest Medieval churches in the world. Most probably it was built (or renovated) around the beginning of XI century.To a very big extent most of the frescoes inside are heavily damaged and at the time when I was visiting it some recovery work was undertaken. Still, there is enough of them preserved. For me one of the most formidable facts of its history is that during the conquest of that territory and its inclusion in the Ottoman Empire the church has been turned into a mosque. Entering the church was for me one of the most powerful experiences in my life. I cannot explain why. It just was. And, thank God, there were no Japanese tourists with their annoying tiny videocameras anywhere.


And this is the Ohrid lake itself. Its beauty and its vastness are untolerable.If you take a long trip on a boat during a hot summer day, leave the boat to drift slowly over the crystal clear water and gaze into its depths, you could see the sandy bottom from which weird seaweeds grow. The lake gives you the impression of an ocean. In the evening when you go to one of the small restaurants built at banks of the lake you could listen to its hushed motions while the water washes the steps of the restaurant. The sky is intense blue, the orchestra plays my favourite Macedonian songs about beauty, bravery and death. The drinks are strong and the men are irresistable.


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