Q: What is grafting? Grafting is any method which surgically connects a part of one plant to a part of another plant; the two then grow together to become a single plant. The top part, which will produce the branches, leaves, flowers, and fruit, is known as the scion (pronounced sigh-on). The lower portion, which produces the root system and the very bottom part of the trunk, is known as the rootstock, understock, or simply stock. The scar where the two are joined, and which may remain visible throughout the life of the tree, is the graft union, bud union, or simply union.

Q: What is Budding?
Budding is simply a method of grafting in which the original scion had a single axillary bud eye on it (as opposed to a bigger scion with more bud eyes). An axillary bud, known to budders as an eye is the tiny green bump just above the point of attachment of a leaf, on the stem.

Q: What Trees Can Be Grafted?
Young trees should have 1 to 2 feet of branch between the trunk and the graft. Otherwise the good crotch formation of the understock will be lost by the trunk expanding past the union.
Trees up to 5 years old can be grafted at one time. On older trees about half—the upper and center part only—should be worked at one time. The remainder should be worked a year later.

Q: How to Collect and Store Scions?
Scions are selected from the previous season's growth, while they are dormant, but before growth begins in the spring. If the scions are left on the tree until spring, however, there is some danger that the buds will start to grow or be injured during winter.

Q: When to Graft?
It is best to graft in the spring, from the time the buds of understock trees are beginning to open, until blossom time. The usual time is April or early May.

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Q: How to prepare the Rootstock?
Rootstock can be grown in the field where it will be budded, or dormant liners can be transplanted into the field and then allowed to grow under moderate fertility until they reach the desired 3/16- to 7/16-inch caliper. Since budding is generally done less than 4 inches above the soil surface, leaves and side branches must be removed from this portion of the rootstock to create a clean, smooth working area. To avoid quickly dulling the knife, remove any soil from the rootstock where the cut will be made just before actual budding takes place. The stem can be cleaned by brushing or rubbing it gently by hand or with a piece of soft cloth.

Q: When to preparing the Budwood?
Collect scion or budwood early in the day while temperatures are cool and the plants are still fully turgid. The best vegetative buds usually come from the inside canopy of the tree on the current season's growth. Mature buds are most desirable; discard terminal and younger buds because they are often not mature. To keep budwood from drying out, getting hot, or freezing (depending on the season), place it into plastic bags or wrap it in moist burlap as it is collected. Then move to a shaded or sheltered area to prepare the buds. Place budwood of only one variety in each labeled bag.

Budsticks are usually prepared in a cool, shaded area. Remove the leaves but keep the petioles (leaf stem) intact to serve as handles when inserting a bud into the rootstock. Then cut the sticks to a convenient length, leaving three to six buds per stick. Budsticks that will not be used immediately should be bundled, labeled, and stored in moisture-retaining containers such as plastic bags or waxed cardboard boxes and kept cool (32o to 45oF). The longer budwood is stored, the less likely it is to "take." Generally, budwood stored for more than a few days should be discarded.

When budwood is taken to the field, equal precautions against drying should be taken. Storing budwood in a picnic cooler with ice will help keep it cool and moist. Individual bundles of scions carried by budders are often wrapped in moist burlap or kept in dark (not clear) plastic.

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Q: How to Protect The Graft?
Immediately after completion of the graft the scions should be protected from drying out. Use a grafting compound on the graft unions and other cut surfaces.

Q: What kind of protective coating is suggested?
Asphalt water emulsion is now widely used as a protective coating on graft unions. It is of pasty consistency and can be applied with a brush. It is preferable, however, to smear it on thicker with a small paddle.

Q: What binding material is suitable for grafting?
Electrician's tape is an excellent material that will bind and protect graft unions. Choose a brand that is elastic and amply adhesive. A good tape for the purpose will stick well to itself. Do not stretch this tape too tightly or it may crack. Better brands will last throughout the first summer, after which the tape is no longer needed.

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Q: What are some reasons why grafting fails? Reasons:

1. The scion and stock were incompatible; apple will not unite with plum, for example.
2. The grafting was done at the wrong season.
3. The understock was not healthy.
4. The scions were not vigorous.
5. The scions were dry or injured by cold temperatures.
6. The scions were not dormant.
7. The cambium of scion and stock were not meeting properly.
8. The scions were upside down.
9. The graft was improperly covered with grafting compound.
10. The scions were displaced by wind, birds or storms.
11. The graft was shaded too much after growth began.
12. New growth was damaged by aphids or other insects.
13. New growth was killed by fire blight.
14. The union girdled because the bindings or label were not released in time.

Q: What If Grafts Fail?
One hundred percent success in grafting is rare. The failure of one or two scions is not serious, since usually more scions are inserted than are necessary for the completed tree. On branches where the scions fail let the shoots grow. These can be budded the same summer or grafted later. Some shoot growth is needed for regrafting, but don't let them become so dense that they crowd the scions.

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