bump in the night
explosives and stuff
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(1> Making Nitroglycerin
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with fuming
red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room
temp.
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of
fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the
now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of fuming sulferic acid.
When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to
avoid splattering.
4. When the two are mixed, lower thier temp. By adding more ice
to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade. (Use a
mercury-operated thermometer)
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature,
it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in
small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about
10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean
careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with
it.
6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place
as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce
heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees
centigrade! If the solution should go above 30 degrees,
immediately dump the solution into the ice bath! This will
insure that it does not go off in your face!
7. For hte first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be
gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will
formas a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulferic
acid will absorb the excess water.
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has
formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be
transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water.
When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottem
so the other acids can be drained away.
9. After removing as much acid as posible without disturbing the
nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and
place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case
you didn't know) solution. The sodium is an alkalai and will
nuetralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be
repeated as much as necesarry using blue litmus paper to check
for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the
nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from
the bicarbonate. His is done with and eye- dropper, slowly
and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been
successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal
and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with
a clear blue flame.
** Caution **
Nitro is very sensative to decomposition, heating dropping, or
jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.
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(2> Making Dynamite
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stablizing
agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake of saving time, I
will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. The numbers
are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the
exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
no. ingredients amount
---------------------------------------
#1 NG 32
sodium nitrate 28
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotten 1
#2 NG 24
potassium nitrate 9
sodium nitate 56
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 2
#3 NG 35.5
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6
guncotton 2.5
vaseline 5.5
powdered charcoal 6
#4 NG 25
potassium nitrate 26
woodmeal 34
barium nitrate 5
starch 10
#5 NG 57
potassium nitrate 19
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 12
guncotton 3
#6 NG 18
sodium nitrate 70
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5
chalk 2
#7 NG 26
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32
sodium carbonate 2
#8 NG 44
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44
#9 NG 24
potassium nitrate 32.5
woodmeal 33.5
ammonium oxalate 10
#10 NG 26
potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 41
#11 NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
woodmeal 21.2
sodium carbonate .9
#12 NG 35
sodium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 1
#13 NG 32
potassium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1
#14 NG 33
woodmeal 10.3
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27
#15 NG 40
sodium nitrate 45
woodmeal 15
#16 NG 47
starch 50
guncotton 3
#17 NG 30
sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
potassium chloride 7.2
#18 NG 50
sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
ammonium oxalate .4
#19 NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
woodmeal 37
ammonium oxalate 8
barium nitrate 4
calcium carbonate .5
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(3> Improvising Black Powder
Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be
used as blasting or gun powder.
Material required:
potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups
wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
alcohol, 5 pints (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)
Water, 3 cups
heat source
2 buckets -- each 2 gallon capacity, at least one of which is heat
resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)
Flat window screening, at least 1 ft. Square
large wooden stick
cloth, at least 2 ft. Square
Note: the above amounts will yield 2 pounds of black powder. However,
only the ratios of the amounts of the ingredients are important.
Thus, for twice as much black powder, double all quantities
used.
Procedure:
1) Place alcohol in one of the buckets
2) Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant
bucket. Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until
all ingredients are dissolved.
3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat
source and stir until small bubbles begin to form.
Caution: Do not boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any
is dry, as on sides of pan, it may ignite.
4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while
stirring vigorously.
5) Let alcohol stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to
obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black
powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.
6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp
powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen
Note: if granulated particles appear to stick together and change
shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 & 6.
7) Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer about
1/2 inch is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator , or direct
sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably in
one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the
black powder.
Caution: Remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Black powder
is now ready for use.
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(4> Common Black Smoke Bomb
Mix:
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate
Heat:
over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into container. Before
it soldifies, put a few matches in for fuses.
*One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a thick cloud
of black smoke*
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(5> Generic Bomb
1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then
evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a
snake bite kit)
6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object.
*AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 1/2
STICK OF DYNAMITE*
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(6> Mace Substitute
3 PARTS: Alchohol
1/2 PARTS: Iodine
1/2 PARTS: Salt
Or:
3 PARTS: Alchohol
1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons)
It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes... 10-15 minutes
of total blindness. =)
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(7> Co2 Canister Bomb
Take a Co2 canister and cut the top almost off but leave a little to
form a hinge. Let out the Co2 and insert a M80 into it. Insert fuse
throught hole in top. Close the top by welding or epoxy glue. When
ready to ignite just light... Pretty neat eh?
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(8> Unstable Explosive
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight and
then pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. Let
this dry till it hardens. Now throw it at something!!!!
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(9> Jug Bomb
Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it. Then put
the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner surface of the jug
is coated. Then add a few drops of potassium permanganate solution
into it and cap it. To blow it up, either throw it at something, or
roll it at something.
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(10> Hydrogen Induced Hiddenburg Bomb
Needed:
1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum Foil
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little piece of
aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable
hydrogen. Now tie the baloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise.
When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
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(11> Cecil Mak's No.1 Reaction Bomb
Take a quarter of chlorine and place it in an empty and DRY 2-liter bottle.
Put the same amount of sugar and place it in the bottle too. Add enough water
to make the mixture soupy. Put the cap on and throw it away!!! (It splatters
all kinds of blinding and noxious chemicals when it goes off). As the sugar and
the chlorine dissolve in the water, they react with each other. The bomb is
about as loud as an M-80. The bomb will take anywhere from 30 seconds to 5
minutes to go off, so if it doesn't explode, still stay away and come back the
next day to examine it. If it doesn't work, try adjusting the amounts of sugar
and chlorine.
I have never actually made one but they sound kind of cool. But be very careful.
I don't know exactly the chemical equation for this reaction but I do know that
the sugar gives off a lot of energy but if there is too much, it probably will
not go off. Chances are that the chlorine substance has some oxygen in it which
will oxidize with the glucose. If the above means nothing to you, then wait
until you take Chemistry. You will then probably understand it.
Until then, good luck with your bomb.
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(12> Letter Bomb
Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is making sure
it will detonate properly, or that it's not obvious that it is a bomb.
Mixtures:
About 75% aluminum powder with 25% iron powder is best. This is a light version
of thermite, since it is in an enclosed space(the envelope). Mix the above well.
The idea is this: iron can burn, at a very high temperature, but it needs a
little help. This is what the aluminum is for. Aluminum burns at a relatively
low temperature, so it is used as a catalyst of sorts. Magnesium is used to
flash-ignite the aluminum, which then burns the iron, at a suitable temperature.
Since this is going off in an enclosed space, it will burn much hotter and
slower and with more violence than in a normal mix. I advise you play with this
for a while, learning your mixture.
Now for the fun stuff: Separate the layers. In the inner layer goes the
wonderful mixture, the one you are satisfied with. Keep this section separate,
but it might be better to top it off with some magnesium, for a flash bomb, or
possibly a material of your own choice.
Now for the difficult part! The fuse... We can make a fuse from another set of
chemicals: iodine crystals and ammonium hydroxide, the latter in liquid form.
Mix these together, in about an equal amount. (You might want to use a but more
iodine if you are pressed for time.) They will form a new crystalline structure,
about an inch long. These are highly volitile, and I advise keeping them protect-
ed.They have about the impact power of an M-100 for a teaspoon. I put these in a
protective cardboard lining, and put them in the top of the envelope. This is
tricky, and I can't explain it here. Seal this up, but the bulk of the letter
bombs are easily recognizable, they rarely make it past the post office.
I frown upon the use of letter bombs as a means of getting even
because you never know who it is going to detonate around, or that it will
even be them who open the letters.
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(13> Iodine Crystals
This project is for those of you who would like to get even at somebody but
you don't really want to hurt them, just scare the hell out of 'em!
These little beauties are pressure sensitive so that the slightest touch will
cause a fairly loud explosion. (About a quarter of a firecracker per crystal.)
It may not seem like much, but there are usually about 500 crystals in a
teaspoon of crystallized iodine. Also, when the first one goes off, it will
more than likely start a chain reaction and cause all the others around it to
go off, which would cause the others around each one of those to go off etc...
Materials:
1) 1 bottle of iodine crystals.
2) 1 bottle of ammonia nitrate.(ammonia hydroxide might serve as a substitute,
but I'm not too clear on that.)
Instructions:
Mix 2 teaspoons of crystals with about 4 ounces of ammonia. You might have to
experiment with the measurements a bit to see what works best. Stir until
dissolved and pour it over the area you want to trap. Let the ammonia evaporate
so all that will be left are the tiny crystals. (They're almost invisible.)
Then, when somebody stops on or sets something down on them... Boom!!!
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(14> Nitromethane Explosive
Materials: Sources:
-nitromethane hobby shop (racing fuel)
-ammonia (non-detergent) grocery store
-blasting cap or -
compound detonator
Procedure:
Pour 5 or 6% ammonia into the nitromethane. (1/2 pint of ammonia will work with
one gallon of nitromethane.)
How to use:
Place the nitro mixture into a bottle, place a cork with a hole in it into the
bottle. Place the detonator in the hole so it touches the mixture.
CAUTION: This mixture is 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Use EXTREME caution.
Detonate only by remote control or with a trustworthy timer.
Hint:
To increase the power of this mixture, place it in a more confined container.
(ie. A metal pipe with caps.) This mixture is highly stable, but still should
be mixed right before placing the bomb.
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(15> Thermite
Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically anything,
even tungsten. It is especially useful in trying to crack open a fortress fone.
Now here's how you make it. It is very simple.
The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In layman's terms,
hematite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large amounts of
rust. You will electrolize a metal rod, such a common nail. You will need a
source of DC power as well. An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach
the rod to the positive wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in
opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the water,
just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit ovvernight.
In the morning, there will be a dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud
out of the water or just fish it out with a spoon.
Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a
nice light red.
The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can either file
down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum filings at your local
hardware shop. (If you buy the bar, use no less than 94% pure aluminum. It is
called duralumin).
That's almost it. Now, mix together the rust and aluminum filings. The ratio
should be 8g rust per 3g aluminum filings. That's thermite!
Now, to light it! Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of thermite.
(either steal it from chem. labs or buy it at your local hardware store. If now,
order from a chemical supply house, it's pretty cheap.) The ribbon should stick
into the thermite like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch.
(Don't worry, the torch isn't hot enough to light the thermite. Also, it you
don't have a big, bulky torch, I suggest you go to an electronics store where
they sell the mini-blowtorches they use for soldering. They're about 20 bucks.
They should work, but if not, I'm pretty sure that you can find MANY uses for a
mini-blowtorch.They can get up to 1400 degrees celsius.)
When the thermite burns, get the hell back!!! That stuff can vaporize carbon
steel! It does wonders on human flesh.
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(16> Coke is it! (Iron Blade's Specialty)
Things you will need:
- gasoline
- Joy or Palmolive (Joy is better)
- a coke can with the can sawed off
- ammonia pellets
- a drill
- some bendable wire
- a nail
HERE'S WHAT TO DO:
First make a mixture of 1/2 Joy and 1/2 gasoline. Take the coke can and fill
it half full with this wonderful mixture.
Now, take a drill (or something sharp) and put a hole through the ammonia
pellet big enough for the nail.
Put the nail through the pellet, which I might add can be bought at any farm
supply store, and wire that to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped
easily, allowing the pellet to drop.
(WARNING: Do not let that pellet fall into the mixture as your wife will soon
become a widow!!!)
