Stereo Repair - In House  Service  Company                              

  12 Technology Drive, Ste.13,   Setauket NY   11733                


 Home    Contact Us    Directions    Shipping     Prices     Payment     Our Warranty

High-End Vintage and Audiophile Equipment

Musical instrument amplifiers

How to send unit in for repair

Guide to repair prices

Directions To In House

Troubleshooting your equipment

Equipment care

Surround Sound setup and installation-Long Island area only

Contact Us

Guide to our services...
Description of our shop...
Frequently asked questions...
Our completely biased and subjective advice, tips and opinions on setup, interconnects, tubes, caps ,speaker wires , plugs etc., etc., etc.


About  Stereo Repair - In  House Service Company...

We are located in the Stony Brook Technology Center, a medical and R&D park in South Setauket, NY.
Centrally located, we are easily accessible from all major highways in Suffolk County. We are open 9-4 Monday through Friday, Saturday 10-12 Noon. We accept cash, MC/VISA, AMEX, and Discover.  Major repairs are guaranteed for six months. We have been in business over thirty years, the past eighteen at our present location and are licensed by the department of consumer affairs.

Although we repair all types of consumer electronics, well over 90% of our work is repair, restoration, upgrade and modification of High-End and vintage audio equipment and vintage tube musical amplifiers.
In the past ten years the diminishing quality of most consumer audio products has resulted in increased demand for restoration
of older equipment.  These items were actually built to sound good and last for years rather than to fit a price point in a marketplace filled with disposable junk.

Our service area is clean, attractive and well lighted. We maintain an extensive service library on paper and CD-ROM. We are well stocked with replacement parts. We use original quality parts when replacement is made, either supplied by Mfgr. or the same item from OEM sources.  We also maintain type integrity in our replacement of passive components, never using a carbon resistor in place of a film or bulk metal type or using a mylar cap in place of a foil polypropylene, for example. We use high quality, low residue solder from reliable suppliers and silver bearing solder where required. We have (and routinely use) a comprehensive array of test equipment, specially designed test fixtures and  standard  and custom made test CD’s. We are very familiar with vacuum tube equipment and have extensive experience in this technology that pre-dates the current "Revival. We have applied much time and effort in the setup of our shop in order to do our work in a efficient professional manner. Taking pride in our work and the relationship we have with our customers, we provide prompt and professional service for the consumer in need of repair of audio equipment.



Guide to the services of In-House Service Company



        Repair, Overhaul, and Upgrade : An Overview

We have extensive repair experience with audiophile and tube equipment and understand both the distinctive quality of these products as well as the technical aspects of repairing this level of equipment.
We  repair and restore vintage and tube audio gear and bring the classic item back to "original" condition but with more reliable modern components.
We also repair and modify modern solid state and digital equipment and offer custom modification services to meet specific customer requirements and system balance.
Please see the table at left  on our main page if you have a specific brand in mind as we have our recommendations of service level listed for many items. Please contact us for any item or question not covered.

Repair and Overhaul: Basic Service

This option is designed to replace only parts that are defective, and to leave all other stock components intact. The basic service is limited to repairing the equipment. Any item undergoing this service  will be warranted for a period of six months on the work performed. This service includes replacing defective parts, cleaning all switches and controls, adjusting bias, resoldering printed circuit boards, and a complete function check. We replace all parts with original OEM types or carefully chosen replacements that will not cause any electrical or sonic imbalance. Most solid state high end products and modern tube high end products will only require this level of service. Prices for this level of service are usually in the range of 125-175.00.

Repair, Upgrade and Modification: Options

We feature conservative upgrades of equipment that enhance sonic properties without completely altering the original design. Depending on the equipment involved we replace generic resistor types with high quality metal film types. Capacitors in the signal path and critical bypass points are replaced with polypropylene caps of superior quality. Power supply upgrades include UltraFast and Hexfred/soft recovery rectifiers, multiple poly cap bypass and low ESR electrolytic upgrades. Volume and balance controls can be replaced with high quality potentiometers or multiple position stepped switch attenuators. A wide variety of jack and binding post replacements are available.

We have devoted a great amount of time to selecting components and upgrades that give the maximum return in audio quality for the money.
We believe that selective replacement of critical components (and minor circuit tweaks when appropriate) yield better cost effective results than radical redesign and reworking of equipment.
Our standard service cap brands are Panasonic or Jantzen  polypropylene  for standard tube replacement, with AudioCap Theta, MultiCap RTX or Auricap  for upgrade, and WIMA MKP for low voltage and solid state circuits. Electrolytic caps are replaced with Nichicon Muse, Panasonic FC, FM,BG  or other premium low esr/impedeance types  as required.  Resistors used are metal-film, metal-oxide or non-inductive wirewound as required.
We use Tesla, Sovtek, Sevtlana/SED, EH  or NOS Tubes. We do not recommend any Chinese tubes and will not use them in any repair in our shop.
Prices for these services vary and depend on the type of equipment, component choices and if a repair is involved or needed. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions as to your specific item.



Repair, Upgrade: Standard Service

This option is designed as a service to partially rebuild a device.  Coupling, blocking, bypass, and filter capacitors are replaced and updated with standard upgrade or our  premium types.  Plate, cathode, PS, and bias resistors  in tube equipment are replaced and updated with premium types.  Rectifier diodes are replaced with UltraFast or HEXFRED types where advised. This service offers a six month warranty (excluding tubes).  We perform all basic services as listed above and replace input jacks with upgrade parts as needed and/or requested. The usual price range for this level of service is 225-300.00, depending on brand , model and parts required.

Repair, Upgrade: Custom Service

This service provides modifications requested by the customer, and components may be selected by the customer. These can be supplied by the customer or we will attempt to supply. Aftermarket third party  kits can be installed.
 You can also ask us to examine your equipment and see what we can do to go above and beyond the usual upgrade.
Some custom modifications we offer are; power supply stiffening, bias adjustment for each individual output tube, circuit engineering, filter and EQ bypass, custom resistor and cap options, remote power supply mounting etc.
 Please inquire for other custom modifications. While we will try to honor your request we will not attempt any modification that we feel will either not have any audible effect or cause potential damage to your equipment. Please contact us for questions in this area. As work of this nature is varied and complex, it is difficult to give a accurate idea as to price, but jobs we have done at this level have ranged between 400-1,000.00



Description of our repair shop...

The main audio bench is a 15ft.triple station workbench.   There is sufficient equipment and flexibility so that any audio item can be serviced at all three stations. The flexible nature of the repair stations is due to the custom made test fixtures on each bench. These allow the item being repaired to be connected to monitor speakers, dummy loads or internal monitor amplifiers. The item being repaired can be connected to Level Meters, Distortion Analyzers, O’Scopes, Wow & Flutter meters, CD audio sources or Audio Generators. This is accomplished by relay switching or direct switching of I/O sources . High level (speaker level) signals are input via a 6 pin Alacatel 20A pro audio jack, then switched to monitor speakers or internal 200W Dale non-inductive wire wound resistors. The instrument relays and switches connect the various pieces of test equipment to the appropriate source. Low level sources are input through high quality input jacks, then routed to the internal monitor amp and, as above, the signal is sent to the desired test equipment. All bench connection cables are made from rope-braid copper cable of 12 or 14 gauge. Audiophile grade cables are used for low level signal sources. A system of adapters or designated cables provides secure connection to any equipment regardless of the type of connector on the item under test. All important tests can be done quickly and without having to find patch cords, hook up equipment, search out adapters, etc. This enables us to do complete and thorough tests on all equipment we repair. All test equipment can be disconnected from the fixtures and directly connected for special tests or equipment requirements.The fixtures and wiring are of high quality, making use of heavy gauge and low loss wiring. All instruments are well grounded to a common bus consisting of dual 12 gauge solid copper wire. 12 gauge rope braid wire is used for individual grounds to the bus. Equipment under test can be connected to a heavy duty AC isolated supply that includes a Variac and AC leakage tester.
Each bench has identical monitor speakers using Morel drivers and custom made crossovers


Frequently asked questions...


1-Why can't I talk to a technician?
2-Why don't you sell parts?
3-The person who answers the phone does not know what my equipment is.
4-My e-mail was not answered-how come?
5-I ordered parts and never heard from you.
6-I'm repairing my unit and just need some help
7-Why is my model not listed on your  brand specific page- does this mean you do not repair it?
8-Can you give me advice on buying equipment?
9-Do you hate surround sound/home theater equipment?
10 - Are there any new products that sound decent (in your opinion)?
11-Why does so much new equipment sound like s***?
12- OK, you don't sell parts-so where can I get them?
13- Are you "In House Service" " Stereo Repair" or "stereorepair.net"  why so many names?


1- Actually you can but he cannot answer calls, give directions, or answer routine questions such as " do you repair amplifiers?", "Do you work on ( brand name) equipment?") The receptionist is also the operations manager and is fully qualified to answer 90% of your questions. When you need to speak in detail to a technician or if she cannot answer your question she will either transfer you or take your number for a return call from a tech. Please note: Any expression of annoyance, frustration or impatience in not being able to speak to a tech "right away" will effectively result in your never speaking to a technician at all-be polite.


2- It is simply a area we do not get involved with. The demands of stocking, research, shipping, order filling are not something we take on, all of our time is taken up in repair work and running a service business.


3- She really does know a lot about this stuff, but something like " are you familiar with the Golden Pentangle Persephone DAC ?" or " How much to upgrade a 8b ?" is a bit too out there for someone who is not a real audio geek. She will ask you a few questions like "What is a 8b?". You can answer
"A tube Marantz power amp" or " A Bryston amp" and she will either answer you question or put you through to a technician.


4- It may not have been read yet, it may not have gotten through, or possibly deleted by mistake as we wade through spam and junk mail. If you do not get a response in 48 hours, resend or try calling on the phone. All requests for parts, d.i.y  service information, addresses of dealers, advice on  the"real" value of a item listed on e-bay are deleted. Sorry, but that is the way it is.


5- Strangely enough, we receive orders for parts, circuit boards, cabinets and such a few times each month. Even though we state we do not sell parts they arrive complete with credit card information and shipping address, usually from europe or south america. Do not know why they are sent, but these are simply deleted.


6- Not to sound arrogant or self important but we are busy running our shop and repairing our customers equipment. Would you call a Doctor at random and ask what you should take for bronchitis ?  Or a Lawyer you never even spoke to before advice on how to file for a divorce?. Think this through a bit,  hope you understand our point of view.


7- Specific modes are listed because they are common repair items or we have certain upgrade packages for a specific model. If your brand is listed, we probably repair all models by that company, but feel free to ask about the unit you have. Chances are that unless it is a unit we know has a parts availability issue or is a real dog of a set we will be able to repair it.


8- If you e-mail and are patient, good chance. By phone, none at all.


9- NO! Home theater is fun, we install and set them up. We like to watch movies and sports like anyone else, but home theater setups just do not cut it for music. This is our opinion, anyone can disagree with us. Basic idea: Two ears, two speakers for music. It just sounds better. Also most consumer grade home theater equipment is really poor quality, made to fit price points in a very competitive market. Quality costs!


10- Yes, but not at consumer audio mass market stores. Entry level High-end equipment from companies such as Creek, Arcam, Adcom, NAD and Rotel come to mind, but you will not find these at your local bigbox store. Most new high end equipment is good as this is a very competitive market and a crappy product can ruin a companies reputation and credibility. ( An example:  A really fine company from Canada made a CD player that a highly regarded reviewer found " lacking in pace and that sense of overall cohesive musicality that is to be expected in the very best of audio equipment". The  company pulled the entire production run from its dealers and crushed them.)


11- The answer is found in #10


12- We will have a page of some sources soon, but sometimes we have to Google it too.


13- Our official business name is " In House Service Company" When we started the company this was because of two things- We repair all equipment ourselves in our own shop, we do not farm out or sub-contract anything. "In House Service" was too vague for the Internet -were we a house cleaning, dog grooming, home improvement or whatever company?- no way to tell and too much confusion. "Stereo Repair" is a title and best working description of what we do and is the best way to communicate what 90% of our business is. "Stereorepair.net" is a really good URL , easy to use and remember. (someone grabbed .com, we got .net.)





Our completely biased and subjective advice, tips and opinions on setup, interconnects, tubes, caps, tips
speaker wires, plugs etc., etc., etc.

Basic Connection:

Connect all equipment with the power off. Never connect speakers while a receiver or amp is powered up.  Check speaker wires carefully as a single strand of the finest guage wire will look like a direct short to your amp.  Start out with good quality cables and interconnects:

Speaker wires:

After years of futzing around with every kind of speaker cable made this is our basic idea; LESS REALLY IS MORE! . Time and time again I have seen that the simplest type of construction of speaker cable is the best. Ohms law really works and the basic requirements for speaker cable are low resistance and  high current carrying capability.  Get these right and add some care about magnetic induction and 90% of the problem is solved. I am always wary about cables that have any  black box at one or both ends of the cable A few times I have cut these " matching devices or stabilizers open and have founf just wire imbedded in epoxy. Point is : beware snake oil audio!.  I make my own wires and on request will do up a set. No big secret: I use high grade clv-3 rated speaker wire of 16 or12 gauge twisted pairs, tripled or up to five separate pairs over  ten feet, interleave the conductor pairs and try to bi-wire on unusually long cable runs. I usually use ten feet as a minimum length for any speaker wire, it is my impression that cables under six feet do not sound as good as a longer cable. Feel free to disagree, but give it a listen first.

Of cables on the market I like Kimber cables best. Their entry level cables are fairly inexpensive and use the type of multi-counductor interwoven construction I prefer.

I do not find any advantage to any speaker cable set over 800.00. Over this price range  and any advantage is so far down on the cost/return scale that I consider it a waste of time and money.

If you just want decent wire that works and will not blow up anything RadioShack 16 gauge Megacable or "Stereo Speaker Wire " at Home Depot will work well. I disagree with some writers who extoll the virtue of solid gauge wire ( telephone, hook-up wire, or Romex).


Interconnects:

I really feel that very heavily shielded interconnects squeeze the life out of music. The interconnects I use at home and for my customers usually consist of (feel free to try out secret recipe!) three twisted pairs of stripped out cat 5e wires, one strand of each to ground, the other to signal hot.  Terminate to good quality RCA's and cover in nylon braid to protect and  to damp vibration. Dozens of my customers have really liked the result, and have had me make up replacements for all his interconnects. You will have to use good wiring practice if you use these to prevent hum.

Again, I like Kimber interconnects

I have come to believe that any cable with a bandwidth greater that 10 MHZ or so will work for digital signals just fine. At times I did think I heard a difference between digital cables, but could not confirm. I have used very expensive digital cables in my reference system and have used standard video patch cords, but have found little difference between them.

I prefer Coax for all purely audio digital connections, but use Toslink for anything that touches sat or cable tv, due to safety issues in case of lightning strikes ( glass=insulator, Copper= conductor  )


Good wiring practice:

Run all AC leads to a single outlet strip to prevent ground loops. Use a surge protector. The computer grade units by Belkin you can get at Home Depot for about 75.00 are OK to use.
Never parallel run speaker wires or low level connectors with AC lines, never bundle RCA and speaker wires together. If dissimilar lines come near to each other, cross at 90 deg angle.
Never coil up speaker wires into loops, you are just building a choke coil (inductor). You do not want this but it would take a long, long time to explain why, trust me on this one.

Spray every single connection with Caig Labs G5. This stuff really works, I use it on my equipment, and use only Caig products in my shop.  Do not use anything else,  especially never use WD-40, this will really louse up your gear!.

I
have noticed countless times that both speaker wires and interconnects sound better if lifted off a floor and either suspended or lifted on blocks of wood, dixie cups, anything but clumped on the floor. Other have commented on this and suspect pickup of vibration as a cause  of this problem.

Vibration damping:

No skepticism here, this really works and is important. In my shop it is standard procedure to use a variety of damping materials when we upgrade and modify equipment.  All conductors carrying electromagnetic energy are capable of modulating signals when subject to mechanical vibration. Sometimes this is severe such as in preamp tubes, much less in output transistors for example.
 Stone or heavy wood bases , vibration damping such as Dynamat,  and damping feet can all be important to better sound.
 I usually use dense live rubber under power amps, stone base with small silicone feet for CD players and preamps. Big receivers usually work out well with stone or heavy wood with multiple silicone feet. My best speaker mount technique is using construction adhesive to bind heavy maple or oak  block to the bottom of floor standing speakers or speaker stands, and then bolting directly to a floor, cutting through carpet if necessary. Best results with at least six bolts/lag screws right over a stud or setting with bondo body filler to a slab floor.

I take a lot of time in setting up internal damping in a upgrade component  and know how much labor it can take to kill resonance in some equipment. Some of the well known tweaks of discs, stones, goo and such are useless crap designed to remove money from the  pockets of the more gullible among the audiophile public.

Tubes:

Any time we retube a set I usually use new production tubes from Sovtek/New Sensor, E-H , Svetlana /SED. and Tesla JJ.  I WILL USE CUSTOMER SUPPLIED TUBES BUT DO NOT GUARANTEE RESULTS WITH THEM.
I do not use "NOS" tubes unless the type is not available in new production. Quite often nos tubes are really just used, and there are some far east companies that offer to make brand new "NOS" tubes with any branding desired on them.

90% of my tubes are purchaced from www.tubestore.com. They are fast shippers, provide excellent customer service and all their products are genuine and reliable. They also rate and review every item they sell and provide a lot of tube and audio info on their website.

I always like to send a repaired set back with the output and driver tubes that are going to be used in the set. This just makes sense considering the chance of a customer having a bad tube and not being satisified with a repair.

Preamp tubes last much longer than usually thought. I receive Fishers and Mcintosh preamps with 30 year old
Telefunken and Mullard tubes ithat perform and test as well as new. Lesser brands and many imports do not perform nearly as well. I will usually change out preamp tubes if they are mismatched or actually defective in some way.



NOTE: We stock parts for our own use and absolutely DO NOT sell parts or tubes. Please do not request that we sell parts or service documentation as this is just not what we do.


 
The Audiophile Webring
[ Join Now | Ring Hub | Random | << Prev | Next >> ]
Visit a complete list of WebRing memberships here

This site is a member of WebRing.
To browse visit Here.