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ARTICLES:
ALTHEA MERBACK, MINIATURE KNITTER (ed. Avital Pinnick)
NANCY ROBINSON, CROCHETER AND CREATOR OF "NANLETS" (ed. Avital Pinnick)
BOOK REVIEWS:
 
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My children are my inspiration, and my distraction. It is difficult to find time for myself with all of these wee ones nipping at my heels, but like a rebellious teenager who refuses to be oppressed by circumstances, I tote my knitting projects with me and the kids sometimes just have to wait for service. My son Augie has been known to say, "Mom, when you finish that row can I have a ...." My brother Max calls me "Rebel Knitter." Now that the triplets are in "baby school" for four hours a day, I plan on doing some non-rebellious knitting. Before I had the triplets, I was a Respiratory Therapist. Although that career had its rewards, it did not fulfill my basic desire to make stuff. I doubt I will ever return to the health care profession.
Several years ago, I started feeling like I was cheating because I was using other people's patterns, but I lacked the confidence to design my own things. I began altering patterns, and this helped me gain the confidence to stray from written patterns. A few years ago I got Barbara Walker's Mosaic Knitting book and began designing baby clothes with mosaic patterns. After that I branched into purses and found that I really enjoyed making things that you didn't have to wear or fit into.
My best friend in Philadelphia liberated a dollhouse from someone's garbage. She was rehabilitating it and filling it with wonderful little things. After seeing it, I caught the bug and began frequenting eBay like a miniature junkie, buying lots of minis. One day when I was scanning eBay for more treasures, I came across a knitted child's sweater in 1/12 scale and decided I had to try doing that myself.
Without designing a pattern first, I found the smallest needles I had (size 0) and the thinnest yarn I could find (a baby yarn) in my stash and I made a man's cardigan with tiny little pockets. It was an instant thrill. I started searching for smaller needles and thread. My mom found some tapestry needles and I sanded the points down and used those for a while (at great peril to my fingertips!).
My mind was constantly envisioning miniature garments and I couldn't work fast enough to produce the things I designed in my head. I tested the eBay waters to see if I could sell anything that I had made, and was surprised and delighted when I did. People began contacting me to see if I could make this or that. The first request was for a pair of gloves that a woman needed for a winter room-box scene. I used fingering weight yarn and 00 needles. The results were bulky and clumsy. I tried again and again until I was down to size 80 DMC tatting thread and Voila! I made some pretty small gloves. I was then commissioned to make socks for another collector.
It has been going like that for the past two years now. I don't produce a lot, but I love the process: envisioning a miniature garment, creating the pattern, selecting the yarn, and getting to work trying to create what's in my mind's eye. I now have a good collection of threads and needles and use anything from a size AA silk sewing thread to Pearl 12 cotton.
My customers have given me a lot of wonderful inspirations for the designs I come up with, like a sock in the process of being knitted and Nadara's 1950's style chenille robe. I was surprised at how many people collect miniatures. Some people want to dress their dolls in the garments I make, some want dollhouse props and others simply wish to have miniatures framed for a wall hanging. I have recently begun creating vignettes of knitted things, like a framed pair of socks with a basket of yarn and knitting needles that people can hang on the wall.
One of the great freedoms I find in knitting in miniature is that I can design my own garments and get results fairly fast. It satisfies the need for immediate gratification. I don't have to fret over whether it will fit. I don't spend a fortune on yarns--a little goes a long way.
The reactions I get from people are great. We all enjoy a little sleight of hand, or riddle, or the challenge of a mind game, and I find that most people are delighted by the playful paradox of miniatures. When you see something that is clearly intended to fit the human form but, at the same time, realize its inaccessibility because it is so tiny, you can't help but feel enchanted. My favorite reaction was from the woman at the local knitting store, who said that after looking at some of my miniatures, she was "smitten." There are always people whose first thought is "You're crazy," but to them, my response is always the same: "On the contrary, it's what keeps me sane with four children."
I am still experimenting with different threads. The DMC Cordonmet tatting thread (size 80 and 100) is always a winner because it is a pleasure to work with. I love Gudebrod silk, which comes in small cones and is used a lot for fly-fishing. I use size B, which is larger than sewing thread but smaller than button twist. I really like Medici wool, a crewel yarn that is great for giving that fuzzy woolen effect. As a rule, I don't like to have to separate yarn to use it, so I steer away from embroidery floss, but it'll do in a pinch, and you can't beat the variety of colors.
The needles I use range from 3/0 to 8/0, but I use the 6/0 most frequently. The smallest size, 8/0 (.5mm) are just a little too springy. I have been able to knit much smaller things since I discovered Mageyes, and it has totally relieved me from the fuzzy vision I used to have after knitting without them.
My favorite thing about knitting is bringing an idea to life. It is not necessarily the finished product that drives me, but rather the process that leads me to it. Perhaps it is how a sculptor sees a block of marble, not for what it is, but for what it can be. He can use his knowledge of the materials to unearth what is just below the surface, making the image in his mind come to life. When I have a vision of a garment that I'd like to create, I cannot wait to bring together needles and thread, and watch as my fingers unfurl what was once only an idea. As soon as I finish one thing, I yearn to begin something entirely new and that is why I very rarely knit the same thing twice.
At the moment I am helping to re-sock a woman's collection of antique dolls. Her dolls range in size from 7" to 22" and apparently the silk and cotton threads that were used to make the dolls' socks long ago have deteriorated. I am working on my 9th pair for her. They are larger than the 1" scale miniatures, but I always enjoy trying something new. Next I am planning to make a miniature version of Jade Starmore's sweater "Katherine Howard," from "Tudor Roses." I spent a challenging year making the adult version of "Katherine Howard" for myself, and now I am trying to re-write the pattern in miniature. I am finding this to be a mathematical challenge of high degree!
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I live in Florence, Alabama, and I am fortunate to be a stay-at-home housewife (age 57), although not in the traditional sense. My husband, George, and I have one "child," a spoiled cockatiel named Spark. My husband, a professor (experimental psychologist) at the University of North Alabama, and I have been vegetarians since 1973. It was, and continues to be, a philosophical decision having to do with the way in which we view animals. We regard them as fellow creatures and do not see a clear dividing line between "them" and "us." Eating animals, for us, would be like eating our relatives.
The UCTAA graphic on my site leads to the Apathetic Agnostic Church, a rather lighthearted and extremely nontraditional online church of which I am a member. A visitor to my site might conclude that I am Wiccan or Neo-Pagan because of my propensity for designing things with a pagan flair. However, I am an agnostic, plain and simple.
Learning German is a neverending quest for me and my husband. Not only is it a lot of fun, but it allows me to peer into the German-speaking world. I carry on a regular correspondence, in German, with a German email friend, and I keep plugging away, one word at a time. Oh yes, we have three satellite dishes, all of which are for German!
At one time I dabbled with knitting, but no longer do so. Crochet is my thing. It resonates with my creative spirit, especially since it allows me to work in 3D. It is a happy combination, and one I am delighted to have discovered.
About four years ago I decided to try designing a crocheted parrot, in keeping with the fact that I am a dyed-in-the-feathers bird lover. So I picked up my hook and started, not even knowing what it would look like. Bit by bit, and with lots of trial and error, a parrot began to emerge from the yarn. Finally, there he was, sitting on his crocheted stand on top of my work table, surrounded by skeins of yarn and abandoned wings, tails, and beaks. I was so proud of myself, as well as quite surprised. I wondered whether my success with "Little Parrot" was just a fluke, or if this "fluke" could be extended to another bird. Kiwi bird soon joined the parrot. My collection of little statuettes grew, so I decided to call them Nanlets, a combination of my name and a diminutive ending.
The idea is absolutely the most important part, as well as the hardest, in the creation of a Nanlet. Each Nanlet, and the idea it embodies, is a reflection of my "soul" so to speak, a means of expressing what "turns me on." Ideas come in a variety of ways. The "Sunshine Goddess," was created after having seen similar figures on pagan web sites. Sometimes I sit down and repeatedly make rough sketches of an idea, hoping that something doable will emerge. If it does, I tear off the section of paper that has the sketch and tape it to the kitchen wall. As result, I have a rather odd kitchen wall gallery. It is not unusual for me to start with an idea in mind and have it metamorphose into something totally different. My "Feathered Humdinger" was hatched from a candle, the base of which suggested a hummingbird tail. My designs are all small, and this makes it easy to experiment. There is a lot of serendipity in my work.
Each completed Nanlet normally has its own crystal-clear acrylic and/or plastic display case. Since the Nanlets are small, this is an ideal way to preserve and display them. The cases are arranged and stacked together so that each Nanlet can be seen. It brings me joy to look at them. The cases, which come in various sizes, are seamless, so there are no lines to obstruct the view. I also have larger display cases (also stackable) in which several Nanlets can be displayed.
Designing Nanlets is strictly a hobby for me. At one time I considered developing a set of bird patterns to sell to one of the big pattern publishers. However, after I had done a considerable amount of work on the project, I realized that this was just not what I wanted to do. It is more important to me to remain a free spirit and not have my creativity constrained by commercial considerations. Something I would very much like to do is to have a Nanlet show. That would really be fun.
My favorite yarn, virtually the only kind that I use, is Red Heart Super Saver, a worsted-weight yarn that comes in a wide variety of colors and no dye lots. The stuffing is polyester fiberfill. Sometimes I use plastic straws, cotton swab sticks (without the cotton ends), Elmer's school glue, and double-sided tape. I always use Susan Bates crochet hooks, normally a size H, and sometimes a steam iron. And, of course, yarn needles are indispensable. Whenever I crochet, I sit on a large, red, air-filled ball. It puts bounce in my work!
The time spent in creating a Nanlet is more or less correlated with the clearness of the idea from which it was conceived. Sometimes the idea and the resulting Nanlet happen on the same day. At other times the process may continue for a few days. If something doesn't work to my satisfaction, it is no big deal, because I am working on a small scale. The work is more creative than intricate. The actual crochet involved is really not that much, so if I were to clone a Nanlet (assuming that I have worked out the pattern), it would not take long.
I hope there are lots of new Nanlets in my future. Unfortunately, ideas for Nanlets aren't exactly lined up waiting their turn. Sometimes I go for a long period of time before one emerges. One thing I try to do is think out of the box, so to speak, to try to shake up my perspective so that new ideas can take shape. That is the challenge for the future. And as long as I can come up with new ideas, Nanlets will be sure to follow. It is a matter of patience and perseverance, and that I have.
Some of America's most well known yarn stores are highlighted in this book with projects that were bestsellers in that store. There are 34 projects. Helpful aids include schematics, graphs and charts, some in color, and tips scattered throughout the book.
This book includes:
- Great Yarns's throw in Colinette mohair
- Knitting by the Sea's lovely easy-looking raglan pullover in large ribbing in a dk wt cotton yarn
- Kathy Zimmerman's lovely aran pullover, plus cabled socks and hat
- Bette Bornside's practical poncho in an alpaca boucle yarn
- Elegant Ewe's lacy shawl using Lorna's laces yarn
- Yarn Heaven's lovely pullover in lace, using a dk wt yarn
- Handknitters' practical tank top in cotton
- Ron Schweitzer's great Fair Isle pullover, which for me is worth the price of this book
- S.W.A.K.'s quick knit rug of a farmhouse scene
- Melissa Matthay's lace shell in a special laddering technique that I definitely want to try
- La Lana Wools's complicated intarsia pullover, which would be difficult to reproduce without buying those expensive yarns
- Haneke's nice lace top (camisole) and scarf using a 4-ply alpaca and n interesting pair of striped pillows
- Claudia Krisniski's angora hood, toddler jacket in a thick chenille
- Theresa Gaffey's eight linen washcloths that look practical and obviously cotton could be used for them.
- Amazing Yarns's fog chaser jacket, which is way too heavy for us.
- There are 3 animals as well: teddy bear, cat and bunny.
- Green Mountain Spinnery's very attractive Celtic cardigan in a Fair Isle pattern
- Pattern for felted fish to make for kids
- Simple cardigan with garter stitch trim
- Cabled pullover in cashmere in worsted wt (a cheaper yarn could be used)
- Tea cozy of a cottage
- Linda Skolnik of Patternworks--baby set in worsted wt yarns.
- Colinette raglan jacket in very thick yarn, nice practical pullover for a child and a chenille child's jacket
- Jacqueline Olsen's lace ribs pullover knit from the top down using a dk wt wool
- Felted bag to carry yarn projects
- Baby jumper in a practical cotton yarn
- Attractive tweedy cashmere pullover from Tricoter; worsted wt yarn could be substituted for it
- Bomber cap and mittens, which aren't very useful here
- Opulent evening shawl is just gorgeous. It's knit in an Italian chenille Muench Touch me in 20 colors. I want it! I think yarn substitution would be difficult for this one. What to do? I have come up with 5 or 6 really interesting projects for me to do or adapt. This is the kind of book that will prove to be useful in the future, not just for now. I recommend it, but perhaps you should wait for price reductions.
Some sweaters have as many as seven sizes, which adds to the usefulness of this book. There are enough excellent items to make this a definite purchase. Yarns used are commonly available in the States or Canada and enough info is given to make adequate substitutions. The author prefers to be more explicit in her instructions and uses less abbreviations.
There are 21 projects arranged by seasons. I will just mention the ones I definitely liked:
- Melrose, a man's Guernsey knit in a worsted wt cotton
- Siobhan, a rather complicated aran pullover without bottom ribbing
- Gatineau, a very practical V-neck pullover done with central cables and block of seed stitch
- Twister is as its name implies, twisted stitches and it looks very nice done in a dk type wool
- Wishbone is another good cabled pullover
- Kells twin set has a gorgeous long cardigan in a dk weight and a simple ribbed shell in same yarn
- Whistler is a Nordic inspired pullover in a worsted wt yarn, including a cap in pattern.
Every pattern has schematic, charts, and some in color where needed. I don't much care for the color charts as I think it's expensive to reproduce. I've come up with seven real possibilities for myself to knit and I'm pleased, as I think I got my money's worth from this book.
Ok, this is an oldie but goodie. I found it at a public library in the States and then bought my own copy on www.abebooks.com . Not difficult really. Part one, which is sewn and embroidered stuff, is of no interest to me, but parts two and three for crochet and knit afghans are definitely worth it.
There are 11 crocheted afghans and 6 knitted ones, all done by people who sent them in for a national contest. I am most excited about the Sampler in pastels, which is a knit afghan done in 3 colors plus off-white. It is knit from the center out, using several different Barbara Walker patterns. I intend to make this one, so be warned! There is also one called Rainbow, which is done with bobbins and many colors to make a spectacular chevron type afghan. I also like two of the crocheted items in motifs.
These items are similar to Kaffe Fassett but perhaps easier to do. The author's chatty approach is very relaxing and many of the items do look like fun. The yarns used are mostly still around as they are Rowan and Jaeger. Some of them have been previously published in magazines or Rowan publications. The charting will all have to be enlarged in order to see it and many of the sweaters are way too wide, really! Some of them just don't work for me.
My favorite is the Shelves Crewneck sweater, which looks like volumes of books on a gray background--very easy to do. The Aurora slipover is a Fair Isle vest, very lovely and would make a nice patriotic item if done in red, white and blue. Shark is a very easy looking pullover, quite attractive with "sharks" lurking on the front of a blue background. Champagne is a V-neck cardigan with pastel diamonds on a beige background. Gypsy Waistcoat is a striped cardi vest that looks like fun and easy enough to make substitutions for the yarns. I have come up with about four or five items I might consider doing. Everything is charted, no schematics, and the print is adequate, but on the small side. Anyway, the book is very pleasant and good for inspiration. I would only recommend it if you can find a discounted copy.
I bought this from www.abebooks.com after checking out the library's copy. Thirty-seven knitted/crocheted afghans, which were submitted to a contest. Two nice aran afghans, but my favorite is Marriage Lines, which is an aran sampler with 15 different patterns and instructions for personalizing it. This is meant to be a gift to newlyweds. There are many gorgeous crocheted granny-square type afghans.
There are 65 knitted afghans in this amazing collection. All the yarns are from Plymouth, which perhaps helped to keep the price down. Lots of well known designers here. The book is hardbound, printing is good, and all afghans shown in all their colors. Graphs included in color where needed.
The yarns used are knitting worsted, dk or cotton, all of which can be substituted here. I will just list my favorites: a plaid slipstitch in a dk yarn using 4 colors and a counterpane afghan in a dk yarn. No, I can't do it, I give up. Buy this book. You will not be disappointed! (I challenge anyone to come up with any book with this many knitted afghans in it!)
There are 18 projects, each done in two different yarns. The items are classic and the idea of changing yarns is quite inspiring. It's just as well, because we won't find the yarns called for easily. However, enough info is given so that we can substitute. Sometimes she uses a summer and a winter yarn for the same item and it really changes the feel of it. There is a lovely cotton top in a variegated yarn knit on the bias and also done in a viscose for winter and more formal occasions.
Other projects include:
- Cable twist pullover in chenille and a chunky merino (hmmm, I do have it in my stash!)
- Cat's eyes cardigan
- Riviera jacket
- Charisma vest done in worsted wts of silk and/or wool. This is a very beautiful cardi vest, which would be very useful. I have definitely noted it for myself.
- Two pairs of socks
- Two lacy scarves
- Inca Jewel, a pullover with beads and cables and easily made or changed, intertwining cables with no bottom ribbing. It looks like another great project using worsted wt yarns.
- Desperado, a light weight top--also lovely and practical
- Hourglass Stitch jacket and cardigan in two different yarns using a Barbara Walker stitch pattern
- Andean artistry is a cardi with Fair Isle sleeves knit either in fine alpaca or a silk/wool yarn and not difficult.
- Lace scarf using three different yarns to show the differences
- Linen stitch vest (not one of my favorite stitches)
- Zippered jacket with faux fur trim, which I also pass by
- Small purse knit in cotton or cotton viscose.
Each pattern comes with excellent aids: schematic, charts, and graphs where needed. Pictures are quite adequate and the author chats about each project explaining her yarn choices. All in all, this is definitely useful for us as we have no choice but to change the yarns. The book retails for $29.95 but it was going for $10 on Hamiltonbooks.com when I bought it and, at that price, I would definitely pick it up.
Skill level: easy
Materials:
Worsted wt wool yarn (105 mtrs/50 gram ball): 7 balls (wool used was Filati Bertaqua Scozia print)
Needles: 3 1/2mm and 4 mm or size to obtain gauge
Gauge: 4sts=1", 6 rows=1"
Back:
With larger needles cast on 102 sts.
1st row (RS): k2,* p2,k6* (11 times), p2,k2
2nd row: Work sts as presented
Work patt as set until piece measures 11" or desired length to underarms. End with a WS row.
Shape underarm:
At beg of next 2 rows, bind off 7 sts, then dec 1 st at each edge every other row 7 times.
Continue to work in est patt on 74 sts until armhole measures 9.5" from underarm ending with a WS row.
Shape shoulders:
On RS work 21 sts in patt for 2 rows and place sts on spare holder. Cast off center 32 sts and finish right shoulder in same way as left.
Front:
Knit as back until underarm. Do armhole decreases. Next row (3" above 1st armhole decrease) start V-neck shaping:
On right side knit 37 sts. Leave remaining sts on spare needle.
2nd row: patt sts.
3rd row (RS): work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Work sts. Continue to dec on RS every row until 21 sts remain. Work straight until same length as back shoulders. Put sts on spare holder.
Pick up remaining sts on needle and patt.
2nd row: patt sts.
3rd row: k1, ssk, patt to end. Continue patt and decs until 21 sts remain and work as first side.
Bind off front and back shoulder sts tog as follows:
Hold needles containing shoulder sts parallel, with RS tog: with 3rd needle, k first st on front and back needles tog. *k next st on both needles tog, bind off 1, rep from * until all sts are worked, fasten off.
Armhole ribbing:
With smaller needles, pick up 100 sts around armhole and rib k2,p2 for one inch. Cast off in ribbing.
Neck Ribbing:
With smaller needles, beg at right shoulder, pick up and knit 36 sts along back neck, 40 sts along left front neck, pm, pick up 1 st from 2 center purl sts, pick up 40 sts along right front neck and pm. (117 sts). Join and work 1" in k2,p2 ribbing. Dec every row at center. SSK two sts before marker, knit next st, k2 tog. Work one inch and cast off in rib doing center dec while casting off.
Abbreviations:
Pm = place marker
St st = stockinette st
St = stitch
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
Dec = decrease
Patt = pattern
Ssk = slip, slip, knit these 2 sts tog
Rem = remaining
Skill level: easy
Materials:
Dk wt alpaca/cotton (50 grams=110 yds) 8 balls (2 of each color). Yarn used was Cascade Key largo in dark green (2018), light green (1004), navy, purple (2017)
Needles: 3.75mm and 4mm or size to obtain gauge
Gauge: 4 sts=1" (st st), 14 sts=4"(garter st)
Stitches used: stockinette st and garter st (knit every row)
Back:
With smaller needles CO 80 sts with navy. In garter stitch, knit 2 rows navy, 2 rows dk green, 2 rows purple, 2 rows light green, 2 rows purple, 2 rows dark green. Change to larger size needles and continue on striped pattern in st st as follows:
Rows 1-2: navy
Rows 3-6: dark green
Rows 7-12: purple
Rows 13-14: light green in garter st
Rows 15-16: purple in garter st
Rows 17-18: light green in garter st
Rows 19-24: navy in st st
Rows 25-30: dark green in garter st
Rows 31-36: navy in st st
Row 37: knit *3 sts in navy, 1 purple* rep from *
Row 38: knit 1 st navy, 3 purple* rep to end from *
Row 39-44: purple in st st
Row 46-48: light green in st st
Rows 49-50: purple in st st
Rows 51-52: light green in st st
Rows 53-58: navy in st st
Rows 59-64: rep rows 46-52
Rows 65-70: navy in st st
Rows 71-76: rep rows 46-52
Rows 77-82: dark green in st st
Shape underarm:
Row 83-88: rep rows 46-52 and at same time bind off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Then dec 1 st at each edge of every row 6 times (56 sts)
Row 89: Repeat all rows starting with row 7 to row 60. (Can add more rows here if desired.)
Shape shoulders:
Next row: knit 20 sts. Turn, and bind off one stitch and patt to end. Rep these 2 rows once. Then put rem 18 sts on holder.
CO center 20 sts. Knit left shoulder as the right.
Front:
Work as back until row 101 (navy). Start V-neck shaping. Knit 28 sts. Leave remaining sts on spare needle.
2nd row: patt sts.
3rd row (RS): work to last 3 sts. K2tog, k1. Turn.
Work sts. Continue to dec on RS row every 4th row until 18 sts remain and same length as back shoulders. Put stitches on spare needle.
Pick up remaining sts from spare needle and work 2 rows in patt. 3rd row: k1, ssk, patt to end. Continue patt and dec every 4th row until 18 sts remain and work as first side.
Bind off front and back shoulder sts as follows:
Hold needles containing shoulder sts parallel RS tog: with 3rd needle, k first st on front and back needles tog *k next st on both needles tog, bind off 1, rep from * until all sts are worked, fasten off.
Armhole ribbing:
With smaller needles and dark green, pick up and knit 82 sts and work in garter st. Patt as the bottom, e.g., 2 rows dark green, 2 purple, 2 light green, 2 purple, 2 dark green, 2 navy. CO in navy knitwise careful not to cast off too tightly.
Neck ribbing:
With smaller needles, beg at right shoulder with dark green, pick up and knit 24 sts along back neck, 40 sts along left front neck, pm, pick up 1 st from center, pick up 40 sts on right front neck and pm. Working back and forth knit every row in garter st in same row progression as on armholes. Dec at center on every row: 2 sts before marker, ssk, move marker, knit one, k2 tog. On reverse side, k2 tog before marked st and k2 tog after marked st.
Abbreviations:
Pm = place marker
St st = stockinette st
St = stitch
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
Dec = decrease
Patt = pattern
Ssk = slip, slip, knit these 2 sts tog
Rem = remaining
