On Friday, I surfed my very old fish - 5'6" - I used to stand-up on this board.
Very uncrowded - in fact even with the Green Rocks Gang out on Saturday, no problemas.
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August 17, 2003 - NOT UNIX Doug -
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Later,
BA
Another opinion of why NOT to surf in La Jolla -
Cribbed and snipped from a Dan King Essay:
"...The waves are inevitably crappy closeouts. The wind is always onshore. In addition there are serious access problems...
...If you do find a spot to park, you will end up paying for it, and most likely your car will get broken into and/or ripped off while you are out in the surf..."
* All of the tales I'm spinning are based upon facts of some sort.
* Most of the tales will be at least 50% factual.
I'm doing this web thing for a few reasons, and it is, and will be, "a work in progress" for a while:
1. It's an easy way for me to organize my "autobiography" so my kids will know a bit more about me.
2. I find this computer and internet stuff fascinating.
3. I was lucky to be able to start surfing - at least in my opinion - in the "Golden Age" of surfing - I do have some yarns to spin regarding those times.
4. This is an efficient way for some of the old guys to touch bases again - I've received a few e-mails from old (err, long-time) friends I've haven't seen in forty years or so - I think that's way cool.
5. I'm still surfing almost every day - and, at least in my opinion - that's a pretty "boss" thing to write about.
6. I think it will be nice, in a couple of years, to maybe look back at how good - or bad - the surf was in any given stretch of time.