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Surf Report - April 11, 2003

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What surfshot.com sez (my comments in bold italics):

Waves at the outside on the usual spot. I checked this place this morning - I don't know whether to laugh or cry.

If I were a Swarm Local, I think I'd be pretty pissed off.

The surf actually sucked - proven by the number of surfers in the water - and yet the 'reporter' says the waves are breaking "outside on the usual spot." - HUH - ??

and the waves are:

Peeling all the way to the beach, kind of mushy and inconsistent as well.

Oh well, outside waves - "peeling all the way to the beach" sounds kindda appealing to me - but I actually watched the waves - and I'm laughing at the report, but still I'm thinking how crowded it's gonna get later.

- "gee Uncle Billy, how crowded will it be tomorrow?"

Glassy surface and there is some fun sets for a longboard here this morning.

Not crowded! - Why - a) because the surf sucked, or b) because the locals are hostile and the water's polluted?

Waves size: Knee high

Sets size: Waist high

Sets Interval: 7-8 min.

Surfers Out: 5 guys

Wind: Calm offshore

Weather: Cloudy

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The Swarm this morning - April 11, 2003 -

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What I say:

I surfed "Driver's" this morning.

Huh - "where dat Unca Billy?"

If you really wanna know - call Jeff Divine at Surfers Journal - or Dr. Dermo -

In fact, if I remember correctly - one of the first photos of Jeff's ever published was taken here?

Waves were good - nobody else out - this used to be a regular stop for me - but sometimes the water is wayyyy polluted -

Waves were easily head high plus a little bit - nice and hollow - as usual here.

Ain't easy to get out - though!

Water's nice and warm compared to last week's zero temps.

Later,

BA

The link to more of my surf reports is: Surfing With BA

The link to my latest "BS Page" is: BA's BS Page

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Opps Forgot Some Stuff:

Thought I'd better add some disclaimers:

* All of the tales I'm spinning are based upon facts of some sort.
* Most of the tales will be at least 50% factual.

I'm doing this web thing for a few reasons, and it is, and will be, "a work in progress" for a while:

1. It's an easy way for me to organize my "autobiography" so my kids will know a bit more about me.
2. I find this computer and internet stuff fascinating.
3. I was lucky to be able to start surfing - at least in my opinion - in the "Golden Age" of surfing - I do have some yarns to spin regarding those times.
4. This is an efficient way for some of the old guys to touch bases again - I've received a few e-mails from old (err, long-time) friends I've haven't seen in forty years or so - I think that's way cool.
5. I'm still surfing almost every day - and, at least in my opinion - that's a pretty "boss" thing to write about.
6. I think it will be nice, in a couple of years, to maybe look back at how good - or bad - the surf was in any given stretch of time.

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