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- Paddle Around - Not Thru -


"Hey BA - we went to that stupid, cyber-kook place that you seem to like - alt dot surfing - are some of those guys for real - or are you just getting senile, and you enjoy reading kook rants from Lake Michigan surfers and other assorted re***ds?"

You guys are the kooks!

You would be amazed by the number of very good surfers who post on that site - or whatever alt dot surfing is -

I've surfed with a few of them - and ALL were competent surfers at the least - and the skill level went-up from there - almost to a Richard Kenvin skill level - not too shabby - this is real surfing, not PlayStation Surfing, or X-Box or whatever...!

Some guy wants

MY Opinion regarding in the line-up behavior?

Whew - asking my opinion about ANYTHING is kindda like telling the OJ jurors that if the glove don't fit - you gotta acquit - if you're not prepared for an unexpected answer, don't axe the question!

So - close your ears, and hide the wimmin' and chillin - Just Kidding - following, I think, is the post that started the topic rolling:

"Anyways, a little situation the other day and wondering what is right here.

A set comes in, I catch first wave, go down the face probably about 25 feet and fall off when a rail digs. So now I'm dead in the impact zone with about 3 more set waves full of surfers heading straight towards me. Now what I have found the best thing to do is just stay in your current spot and let people figure out how to get around you. There is no way I can anticipate where they are going and try to paddle out of the way, this leads to colisions as your never going to be able to paddle that fast.

Now when I see someone has committed on a line to get around me or try to get down the face fast enough, I move in the opposite direction. Well the other day, this guy saw me, goes to do a bottom turn to get around, I therefore paddle to get over the face, at the last second he decides he can make it on the face and bam...collision! He runs right over my nose. He starts griping that I should take the wave on the head, I agree but he went to go around me and at the last second changed his mind.

So that is a long story but what do you find yourself doing when your in that impact zone and boards are coming your way? I've even gotten to the point of staying off my board and just standing there until the sets are done, at least that way I can duck out of the way if someone is out of control."


Here goes:

About 5 years ago, I started surfing, again, after about a 5 year lay-off -

My back was screwed, and I had broken my elbow - surfing was getting to be more pain than pleasure.

But, I did not paddle right out at my old spots - LJ Reefs / Black's.

I kindda eased back into it - The Shores, Secret Spots, even Mexico - and then, as I regained a bit of my skills, my confidence increased, and then I was back in the line-up at LJ's Reefs, Black's, even Swami's and JJ's - it did take almost a year - but it was well worth it!

I tried to avoid the crowds, and, I especially avoided places where my kookdom would stand-out.

"BA - get to the effing point - don't you EVER stop rambling?"

My points are simply:

1. It's gotta be possible - ALWAYS paddle around the break - ALWAYS!!

2. The guy riding the wave is the one who HAS to make the decision where he is gonna go - at least he's moving - if you're paddling out, or stuck on the inside you ain't goin' anywhere fast - let the rider figger out his line, then stay out of his way - if you gotta take it on your head - take it - you're tied to your board - it ain't going nowhere.

3. If the rider knows how to surf - good - if he don't - you're screwed - You're probably the one who will pay the price of getting caught inside - just hope you, as the Ram-ee is bigger and / or stronger than the Ram-mer.

4. If you gotta go in - do it, and start over -

5. Refer back to - NUMBER ONE - above - do it - be smart - stay outta the way as much as possible!

Later,

BA


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