It's not often that I think that "young guys" have a clue about surfing - at least in the way that I think about surfing.
"Jeeze BA - get to the point - all you seem to do now is f-ing ramble on about nuttin"
Getting back to my point - after all, I've been doing this stupid - thing / sport - for almost 50 years.
Jose Borreo has his Phd in some kindda weird science having to do with tsunamis.
Not only is he a genius - but he's an outstanding surfer - with a great grip and passion on today's surfing, and a sense of surfing's history - Way Cool -
I guess there's a new movie going around:
Step into Liquid
Jose saw it, and wrote a great piece about it in this thread:
Step into Liquid (thoughts and review)
I've snipped Jose's quote, but I think I got it right - following quote from Jose has gotta be dead on - and I haven't even seen the movie - but he (Jose) sure makes sense - for a surfer!
"The good parts of the movie, I felt, were the Taj Burrow section,
the Cortez Bank stuff and the ladies in Tahiti. Otherwise the entire movie
seemed to be one big cliche from beginning to end - especially the spew
coming out of the mouths of some of the interview subjects."
"Dana Brown took the obvious and rehashed it with his dad's old formulas. This is what you get when you have a big name with too much money."
"Maybe the big lesson from Step into Liquid is that we, as surfers,
shouldn't even bother trying to explain things to the land locked masses,
we just come out looking silly.
You either get it or you don't."
I remember in the late fifties and early sixties, when non-surfers would ask me why I surfed, like: - "what was the purpose?"
Then as now, I wasn't spiritual enough to give some sorta cosmic consciousness answer, so I would simply say:
- It's pretty good exercise.
- It's fun.
- Sometimes it's exciting.
- Sometimes it's a little life threatening.
- The babes on the beach look good.
And - it's way cool to be able to paddle-out with a cigarette in your mouth, and get neither it, nor your hair, wet!
Of course, I was never cool enough to smoke, but I'll never forget Mike Hynson and his PB Crew paddling-out at The Shores, dry hair, dry cigarette.
It was always much easier to explain dry hair and cigarette - than anything spiritual - at least for me!
Later,
BA