June 12, 2004 - Another BA Apology - Plus B*g R**k - Plus Creatch
I finally looked at my pages via an old version of Netscape - they looked so bad that I was gonna delete every record and start over - anyway - I'm gonna measure twice and cut once from now on - the stuff I scribble is bad enough via IE, much less having to plow thru the mess in Netscape - sorry for the crapola!
I was gonna surf Wind**Sea this morning - tide was just a bit too high so I went to Lobster Lounge - I haven't surfed L.L. at a medium tide, on a small day in many years.
Surfed it by myself, but as I was going in - Jimmy McGrew was paddling out - kinda like it was 40 years ago - just a couple of La Jolla guys surfing The Rock!
Sure was fun, and I only got pitched on to the reef a couple of times -
after today's surf there, I'm really motivated to transfer my 8mm movies of L.L. on to a DVD!
I was going thru some of the photos I took last week - and this one was pretty cool - it shows the similarity between that place in Tahiti - "Choo - Poo" or whatever it's called and La Jolla Shores -
2. Waves break on coral or some other kind of reef.
3. A surfer can only go left.
4. Most obvious similarity - the waves do not have a back - only a gnarly face to ride and conquer!
The only difference? The water's a little colder in La Jolla, other than that - they're almost an identical wave!
Creatch - a real guy - a really good surfer [check out his photos] - with a great memory of surf stuff past - emailed me with a story about a guy that everybody knows - I'm gonna check with "the guy" to make sure it's okay to spin some great surf tales about him - so for a couple of days - his name is **** ******.
