- Oct 27, 2003 -
The surf is still good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
But - there's a Fire Storm in So-Cal - worst one in more than 30 years for San Diego County.
A few photos from this morning and yesterday morning.
I remember the Laguna Fire - it burned more than ??????? acres -
I think it was in 1970 or so - good surf then too - but a bit tough on the eyes and lungs - the ashes kept blowing toward La Jolla for weeks.
Back to me: I surfed yesterday afternoon in O-side - low tide - south swell - good waves!
I thought about an afternoon trip to Wind**Sea or JJ's, but the 5 north and south was jammed.
Got up early this morning to go back to Green Rocks or The Shoe.
I wanted to give the LJ Reefs another go with NJ Mike - [he's been surfing very well here, by the way]
Mikey Shreds the LJ Reefs!
I stopped at Torrey Pines to make sure there was still surf - about 5:30 am - but it looked like it wasn't any bigger than yesterday??
Anyway - checked my phone messages at T-Pines and I had an urgent message from my Lung Doctor
Something like this:
"Mr. Andrews,
This is Dr. *********'s office, we hope you DID NOT SURF yesterday - and please - DON'T SURF TODAY!
Even though your case of Sarcoidosis"
BA's medical note: [Sarcoidosis - an often incurable and often fatal lung disease]
"hasn't spread too much more thru your lungs - stay indoors!!
You've been really lucky so far - don't press your luck!
Please call us on Monday morning as soon as possible.
Thank you."
Aw jeeze - I knew I shouldn't have listened to my messages until AFTER I had gone surfing!
I don't think it would-da been worth it - my lungs are a bit tight today anywayz.
PM Update:
Back to O-Side -
Waves were kind-da like this D-Street photo by surfshot:
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Best thing too - Very uncrowded - even I got all the waves I wanted!
Tomorrow - first stop - maybe JJ's if the tide is low enough, and still a south swell - then on to Wind**Sea or The Shoe!
Later,
BA