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The Past and the Present
Gianni Versace was born in 1946 in Reggio Calabria, Italy, he became
victim of a cold-blooded murder on the 16th July, 1997. In the early days,
his mother supported the family with her small tailor-shop. There, Versace
learned everything about making clothes and soon he designed apparel himself,
which was sold in his mother's shop. Then, Versace acquired additional
skills working in fabric procurement positions. He got his first chance
to show his skills when designing a collection for Fiori Fiorentini, a
Lucca, Italy based company in 1972.
In the following, Versace designed for the Italian fashion labels De Parisi, Genny (for whom he would later be working again), Callaghan, Alma, and then for Complice in 1974. The work for Complice, which he fully conceived himself marked the first occasion where his own name was included in the brand name.
In 1978, Versace opened his first boutique in Milan's Via della Spiga, still selling other labels to complement his own collections. Soon, with the growing popularity of the Versace style, boutiques started to spread across the globe.
In 1985, Versace added the Instante label to his fashion empire. Similar in style to Versace couture, but targeted at a less affluent and younger crowd.
The Versace-style has become a trademark of its own. If one seeks to characterize Versace, you can always point to Giorgio Armani. Versace is everything Armani is not. He is known for striking colours, materials, and cuts. His collections for men and women are sexy to the point of vulgarity. On first sight his work seems to reflect the typical Italian grandezza. On second sight, he seemed to draw only from those images (like the neo-classicistic ornaments in his prints), pushing them to the limits, in order to question any prevailing common agreement on &qout;good taste".
When designing new products, Versace gave only a vague sketch of his ideas. Then, his assistents were responsible for transforming them into wearable garments.
Since his days as a fabric buyer, Versace enjoyed travelling. In his new creations, he incorporates the impressions he gains while travelling.
In 1997, Versace was shot to death in front of his mansion in Miami,
Florida. Versace's killer is allegedly a serial killer, who committed suicide
in Miami short after Versace's murder. In September 1997, Gianni Versace's
brother Santo Versace was announced the new CEO of the Versace holding.
Gianni's sister Donatella Versace is the new head of design. Donatella
was already in a creative position, designing for the Versus label. Sole
heiress of Gianni Versace is Donatella's eleven year old daughter Allegra.
Her son Daniel inherits Gianni's collection of paintings. Part of Gianni
Versace's heritage are his lucious mansions at Lake Como, Italy, in Milan,
Italy, in New York City, and the mansion in Miami were Versace was killed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Selected Lines
* Gianni Versace Couture
* Instante
* Versus
* Versace Classic V2
* GVII - a men's wear collection for the US market
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Selected Awards and Recognitions
* In 1989, Versace was honored by an exibition called "L'abito per pensare"
(Clothes for thinking), which showed in Milan, Paris, London, and New York.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Economic Data
Ownership
The Versace empire is a familly business. Until his death, Gianni Versace
himself held the position of a director of his company Gianni Versace S.p.A..
His sister Donatella Versace served as vice-president and was also in charge
of the Versace distribution concepts. His brother Dottore Santo Versace
presides together with his college friend Claudio Luti over the holding
company Finanziaria Versace S.p.A. The company was supposed to go public
in mid-1998. Therefore, Gianni Versace started to reconstruct to company
organisation short before his death in mid-1997. It was planned to offer
25-30% of the company assets at the stock market. Since Versace's death,
the management still holds on to these plans. Gianni Versace used to own
45% of the company assets, 35% santo Versace and 20% Donatella. Since Donatella's
daughter Allegra is the sole heiress of the Gianni's wealth, Donatella
will control the majority of the comapny assets. The company will receive
$21.6 million from Gianni Versace's life-insurance.
Performance
In the beginning, in 1978 the Versace business accounted for roughly
$15 million of total sales. Ten years later, this number rose to $353 million.
In 1994, total sales were at 1,175 billion Lira ($728 million), this figure
rose in 1996 to 1,655 billion Lira ($1073 million). In 1996, sales of 854
billion Lira ($553 million) were achieved without revenues from license
agreements; in 1995 684 billion Lira ($420 million). In 1994, these direct
sales were only 610 billion Lira ($378 million). Pre-tax profit was at
178 billion Lira ($115 million) in 1996; 13.6% up from 1995. 80% of these
total sales were achieved outside of Italy. Our picture shows the regional
divisions of sales contributions.
Distribution
The introduction of the Versus-collection to the New York-designer
shows in 1995 marked the beginning of an expansion of the North American
business for Versace. This move was accompanied by the opening of various
new stores and shop-in-shops in America. Around the world the Versace S.A.
possesed in 1994 40 own shops, with an additional number of exclusive Versace
outlets run by a Japanese partner. Versace's own shops achieved 170 billion
Lira ($105 billion) in 1995; 53% of which were achieved outside of Italy.
Advertising
Since 1994, the Versace group spent 8% of direct sales or 40.8 billion
Lira ($ 25 billion) annualy to promote the label. Santo Versace announced
in 1997, that this amount will be significantly reduced in order to cut
costs.
Production/ Licenses
Since the early days of its business in 1978, the Versace group had
licensed the production of men's and women's apparel to the well-known
Italian textile and apparel manufacturer Ermenegildo Zegna.
Outlook
After Versace's death the Versace familly is quoted, "business will
continue as planned". Except from the fact, that Dontella Versace will
take over the design part, the company will hold on to its strategies.
Since the increases in profits are much more moderate than the sales increases,
the company has annouced a cost cutting program.
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The following biography contains information on Fashion Designer hanae mori.
BIOGRAPHY
From Tokyo via New York to Paris Haute Couture
Student in Japanese Literature to Tok-Won WomenÕs Christian College, Hanae Mori turned after her marriage to studies of stylist and opened her first studio in 1951 in Tokyo.
Soon, she became involved in the post-war growing cinema industry, and designed more than 300 costumes for the films of the greatest directors, such as Ozu and Yoshimura.
When television began to take place of cinema, Hanae Mori was about
to renounce to creation. At this moment, in 1961, she met as a customer
for the first time Coco Chanel in Paris: decisive meeting which made her
become aware that she was intended for the Haute Couture.
ÒEast meets WestÓ, such was the description made by the
enthusiastic criticism when she presented her first collection in New York
in 1965. Major American department stores, such as Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf
Goodman and I. Magnin, recognized the originality of her designs and ordered
her models. Then she opened two boutiques in New York, one at the Waldorf
Astoria Hotel and one on Madison Avenue at 79th street. In 1975, she showed
her collection in Monte-Carlo in the presence of Princess Grace, and in
1977 she opened her Haute Couture house and a boutique in Paris. The same
year she became member of the ÒChambre Syndicale de la Haute CoutureÓ
Ð rare privilege for a woman and exceptional for a foreigner.
Cultural Ambassador
Link between the Oriental culture and the Western culture, Hanae Mori
initiates Japanese women with the luxury and the beauty of the Parisian
fashion and, at the same time, mixes acutely the touches of Japanese aesthetics
in the creations intended for her Parisian customers.
For her, fashion is an alive art. It is in her so rich cultural heritage,
in particular from the traditional Theatre No and from the Edo period,
that she draws her inspiration to create the beauty without ever betraying
her origins.
Hanae Mori took up with the art of costume for opera and ballet: in
1985 she realized costumes for the opera ÒMrs ButterflyÓ
at La Scala of Milan, then those of the opera Electra for the 1996 Salzburg
Festival and, in 1986 those of the ÒCinderellaÓ ballet directed
by Rudolf Noureev for the Paris Opera.
Mrs Mori dresses a lot of personalities, as Princess Masako for whom
she realized her bridal gown in 1993 as well as a lot of dresses for her
official receptions.
Pioneer
Hanae Mori is a pioneer: in Japan where a woman is traditionally confined
in the roles of wife, mother and housewife, she broke with these constraints
to build a fashion empire. Hanae Mori is considered as one of the very
first Japanese business women.
In 1995 Mrs Mori launched her first perfume called Hanae Mori, follow-up
later by Hanae Mori Haute Couture and Hanae Mori Homme.
Achievement
Hanae Mori received ÒNeiman Marcus AwardÓ in 1973.
In 1989 the French government named her Chevalier in the National Order
of the ÒLegion dÕHonneurÓ and the same year she was
decorated with the medal of the order of the cultural merit ÒBunka
Koro ShaÓ, rewards which crowned her contribution to the brilliance
of the international fashion. In 2002, Mrs Mori is high with the rank of
Officer in the Order of the ÒLˇgion dÕHonneurÓ.
Today Hanae Mori shares her time between Place de lÕAlma in
Paris and Omotesando in Tokyo.
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