Past Chesapeake Tips

Here Is A List Of The Weekly Tips Which Started On May 23,1999

Training And Understanding Tips

05/23/99This week's tip deals with one of the most important forms of reward, Praise. Praise should be given at the drop of a hat even if it might seem unnecessary to the master. The important thing is the effect it has on the pet and its reassurance of worth.
05/24/99This week's tip relates to what I mentioned about the tenaciousness of the dog. It is important to follow through with whatever you command your chesapeake to do; just as you would follow through on disciplining a child. Because if you don't, they will learn that they can get away with disobeying and training will become three times harder. So RemembeR, FOLLOW THROUGH
06/01/99I recently ran accross something I never really believed existed, a mean Chesapeake. I have always known that the breed had the potential of being possessive and territorial. I just didn't expect for those traits to become aggressive. The story of what happened has many prenotes and many details too intricate to explain in the tip section, but I will give a brief synopsis of the event. The Chesapeake involved in this ordeal comes from an isolated life(in my opinion)and has had very little time outside a 6x6 pin,(which should have hinted to me to be careful but I wasn't),the dog was a male, and he was being kept in an unfamiliar environment away from home. I approached the porch he was sitting on and from a distance I began talking to him. He was happy and wagging his tail, after three footsteps he imediately charged for me with his teeth ready and body charged. I am still trying to think of what sparked it. Two weeks ago I had the same dog in my lap rubbing his ears and scraching his back. What happened to make him so aggressive? The answer I have relates back to what I told you about his every day environment. To put it simply, pinned up dogs(especially males)are just plain mean. So finally for the tip today.Take heade in the environment you choose for your chesapeake, and any other dog for that matter because their environment does shape who they are and what their tempermants are like.
06/07/99This week's tip is a simple one and is something I am sure you might know already. I often take advantage of the fact that dogs,(trained as they might be) really don't have to obey their masters.They could simply refuse and suffer a quick lashing.They obey out of love and take pride in pleasing their masters. So whether you agree with me or not; reward your dogs so that they know for sure you appreciate them. Remember, you can do alot better than patting them on the head. Talk to them and see if you understand each other.
06/14/99Many people today find that spanking their children is a bad thing. After generations of whipping and beating, we have finally found other ways to discipline. You probably have already guessed where this little observation of mine comes into the tip of the week, but I am going to tell those who haven't got it yet, something they should consider. Chesapeakes and dogs in general (whether we feel so or not) carry with them a sense of self-esteem. (Think about it before you disagree.) If we lash out at them with the drop of a hat (and if we do we have some serious psychological issues to deal with first) then they will feel they have no self-worth and it Will change the dog's attitude for the worse. I've been harping on discipline for the past two weeks because it makes me sick when dogs are beaten for the smallest things we think they do wrong. We often forget they are dogs and not humans. As so, they should be treated with understanding. I don't think we would like it much if some giant from above thumbed us on the head because we got up when we were suppose to be sitting down.
06/21/99This week's tip is a simple one. As you well know, Chesapeakes love the water. Some Chesapeake owners live a great distance from a place where they can take their dog swimming. I have the best and most convenient solution to that problem. Go by your local Wal-Mart (or store there of) and purchase an ordinary children’s pool. They vary from six to fifteen dollars and they serve their purpose wonderfully, and with little fuss. If your dog wants to go for a swim, fill up the pool and forget about taking he or she somewhere else. They won't know the difference.
06/28/99This tip of the week is for those pet owners who have strict rules about "No Dogs In The House". First I want to say that I understand. Second I want you to think about something which I hadn't really considered. If you have a dog that you truly care about, you probably consider it a part of the family. If you agree, consider letting the dog into the family room once or twice a month. The dog will be able to sense that the room is special from all the scents it takes in. Beleive it or not, it makes a difference in the dog. It will feel closer to its master and strive harder to please the family.
07/04/99 I just read over some of my tips of the week, and I have to say that it seems I am comeing off as a quack. Well here's another one for you.
I saw this interesting tip on Tv of what to do when ants attack your dog's food. This is a big problem for me because I live in a hot and wet climate, (Al) plus Chessie doesn't really eat until she gets good and ready. Well here is what you do.... Grab some Vasoline (petroleum jelly for you northerners) and rub it on the bottom rim of the bowl. Any ants trying to get into the food gets stuck in the jelly and the food stays ant-free. >>It's fourth of July weekend, I'll start haveing better tips and add-ons next week.
07/12/99 - 07/26/99 I received an email from someone a couple of weeks ago describing their male Chesapeake's tendency to fight other male dogs. She asked what she could do to stop the dog from fighting so much and if there was some type of training that could correct the actions.
Well a little understanding must first precede the answer. All male dogs have a propensity to establish dominance and fight for what they feel as theirs. That is their natural instinct and that is why it is so hard to come up with an answer to this question.
The easiest way to avoid this problem (if it isn't too late) is to start EARLY. Do not allow your Chesapeake to fight at an early age. Discourage it at all costs or in the future you will see the playful-like sparring of a puppy, turn into vicious tendencies as an adult.
For those of you who feel it is too late; the only "serious" advice I can offer is a type of associative training. In psychology, "shrinks" often cure phobias by associating the phobia with a positive environment or object; sometimes both.
My advice to you is to place your dog in an environment with few distractions and borrow a male dog from someone you know. Keep the dogs separated until you are ready to begin a simple training exercise. It can consist of any commands that the dog is trained to obey. The object here is to associate obeying and following commands while at the same time having a strange dog in the same room. This process changes the dog's train of thought to include another strange animal as part of its obedience training.
Some breeders I know disagree with my methods but are amazed by my results. Their methods are much easier but I feel my ways are better for the dogs. Choosing to neuter and lash a dog for its predisposition is wrong as I see it. If you care for your pet I would suggest trying it my way before you look into neutering your pet to correct aggression.
07/26/99 The tip of the week is directed to female Chesapeake owners. All Chesapeakes should be scanned for a common genetic flaw called hip displaysia, but those with females should pay particular attention in having their dog x-rayed soon as possible and before breeding. Veternarians reccommend doing it at the age of two and so do I. So be sure to x-ray your pet before too much time passes.
08/02/99I'll be focusing on training puppies for the next couple of updates so take listen if you have a little Chesapeake you're trying to train. This update series will start with the first thing you should do before you ever begin training your dog. It's simple, yet important. Be prepared! If you have your dog ready to train and it turns out that you're not. You might as well forget it because very little productivity will come from it. Have everything near you (treats, leash, etc...) and be sure you are mentally prepared to handle the task at hand. If you get frustrated because the puppy won't do what you want it to, you might want to stop and try again later. Even humans are bad at some things when they first try them. So be prepared.
08/09/99 The second update in the training series starts with training your Chesapeake to sit. After you have gotten yourself prepared, isolate the dog in an area with few distractions and have he or she standing. (If they seem too energetic to stand still, let them play some more until they run out the nervous energy.)Next you want to lower down to one knee in an effort to bring you and the dog to a common level of (understanding... eyesite....whatever)communication. It's not necessary but it makes things easier and the process smoother. After you have made it this far,give a verbal and nonverbal command (they can be a combination of any hand signal, and any word you wish, but they must be unique from any other commands that the dog might already know). Imediately push the back side of the dog down and reward with a treet. Repeat the process until the dog's first glimmer of understanding and follow through. Quit for the day and repeat these simple steps until the dog
08/16/99 The third addition in the training series is laying down. It's important for the dog to already have sitting down pat. If you don't think he or she has mastered sitting; teaching your dog to lay will be a whole lot harder than it has to be. As before, be prepared and isolate the dog. Give the command to sit and reward with a treet. Next you want to (as before) choose another unique command for laying and give it to the dog. Imediately push the dog's shoulder blades down until he or she is laying on the ground. (If you find that the dog does not want to follow through, you may try gently removing the front legs out from under the dog and guiding he or she to the ground.)Reward with a treet and repeat the procees until the Chesapeake shows some sign of understanding. When he or she does, quit for the day and start on it again tomorrow. has sitting down pat. For those of you who are unsure of waiting another day to teach; email me and I will be happy to tell you why.
08/23/99 The fourth addition in the training series involves training your dog to speak. This exercise is much easier than the ones before, but I do have to admit that it will take longer for the Chesapeake to understand. As before, be prepared and isolate the dog. Give the command to speak and then get ready to be embarrassed. The way I do it is by giving the command to speak, and imediately barking. Then I act as if I am giving myself a treat which makes the dog want to follow through. When he or she does reward them and repeat the procees until the Chesapeake shows some sign of understanding. When he or she does, quit for the day and start on it again tomorrow. I am sure there are alot of better ways to do this but this is just the way I choose to do it.
08/30/99 I am wrapping up the training series with something fun you can teach your pet to do. Guess what it is. Yard work. After you have gotten all the basic commands down and drilled into the dog's head it's time to teach them something useful to you. I am going to show you how to get your dog to pick up sticks and place them in a pile. (I bet you you're thinking that it can't be done. Maybe, maybe not; it just depends on the dog.) First you need to teach the dog a technique used by hunters when training their dog's to hold. Grab a stick from the back yard and place it in the dog's mouth; imediately say hold. (Believe me when I say that no dog will get this right the first 15 times you try it, so don't get discouraged.)After they have dropped the stick a couple of times, hold it in their mouth and allow them the feel of it. After you have done that, reward them each time they leave it in without your continuing prompting.
When they have holding down, move to step two. While the dog is holding the stick, give a command that consists of some words telling the dog to place the stick in a pile. Then imediately walk with the dog over to the pile and make yet another command for the dog to drop the stick. If it seems that I am being vague on how exactly to do this, it's because I don't want to tell you how to creatively do this. This is more of a trick than a useful command. Some dogs play basketball, maybe yours can learn to pick up sticks.

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