CAPTIVE CARE FOR BOA CONSTRICTORS AND PYTHONS

Because of their similarities and common captive requirements both boa constrictors and pythons will be included here in this section. Both are very heavy and large bodied snakes that range in size from 5-28 feet in length. They are both available in a wide variety of color patterns and color morphs and are best purchased as captive-bred animals, rather than as imports. Most species are listed on either appendix II (threatened) of C.I.T.E.S. (Convention on the International Trade of Endangered Species) with some being listed on appendix I (endangered). Given this fact it is always better to consider a captive-bred animal over an import. Most captive bred boas and pythons may be sold and purchased legally while most imports require a very hard to obtain permit to import and in some cases a permit to even own. Before purchasing any boa or python the author suggests that you check local, state and federal laws and regulations covering the sale, purchase and ownership of large constrictors. Due to the extremely large adult size of some of these snakes many areas have passed local laws and ordinances against the ownership of these snakes. Taking the time to ensure that you are within the limits of the law where you live may save you a lot of money in fines and the loss of your snake, not to mention possible imprisonment in some cases. One more vital factor to consider when deciding on which particular species to purchase is the potential adult size of the snake. The larger species will require a very large enclosure and a minimum of two adult handlers at all times when the snake is held or removed from its enclosure for cleaning or any other reason. The larger boas and pythons may inflict a very serious bite and can very quickly entangle a single adult making its removal very difficult without help.

There are some 39 species and 12 genera of boas that make up this group of New World snakes. They vary in habitat and can be found on at least 4 continents: South America, Australia, Africa and Asia. Captive lengths range from about 6-9 feet with wild specimens having been recorded to reach upwards of 12 feet. Some species are more aggressive than others and range in color patterns and morphs among the captive specimens available to the pet trade.

Pythons are found on three continents: Africa, Asia and Australia. The two most common species kept as pets are the ball python, the smallest and some of the most difficult of the pythons to keep in captivity, and the Burmese python one of the largest of the pythons. Given this varied preference in size it would appear that most owners desire either a very large snake or a relatively small snake with little desire for anything in the middle. Because of this it is very important to decide which category you, as a potential owner fall into. Always taking into consideration the cost of maintaining and caring for the particular snake you desire.

Both boas and pythons fall into a group of snakes known as boids. Another snake that is becoming more and more popular as a captive is the Anaconda, both the green and yellow with the green anaconda being the larger of the two. These are not the longest snakes in the world, but are considered to be the largest snakes in terms of overall girth and weight. They are also the most aggressive and dangerous of all species of boids. In spite of this fact there is many a regretful owner who feels the need to attempt to tame this massive and dangerous snake. Most owners find themselves attempting to find a home for their anaconda as it starts to out grow their home and food budget. Very careful consideration should be given to whether or not a potential owner has the space, finances and a general lack of common sense regarding what is involved in owning one of these massive and potentially dangerous snakes. Anacondas are NOT pets and only belong in the wild or in an institutional environment.

The specific housing requirements for Boas and Pythons varies slightly among the various species and sub-species. The exact size of the enclosure should be based on the estimated ADULT size of the individual snake. It is always financially practical for an owner to start off by providing the snake with an enclosure that is suitable for an adult snake rather than just purchasing an enclosure based on the current size of the snake. This will help to avoid having to continuously purchase one expensive enclosure after another as the snake grows. Starting out with an enclosure based on the estimated adult size of a snake one time is far less expensive than purchasing several smaller enclosures as the snake grows. Purchasing an enclosure based on the estimated adult size of a given species will also help to provide an owner with a general idea of what to expect in terms of a snake's size and space requirements from the start. This will help to avoid any surprises regarding this issue and possibly prevent an owner from having to find a new home for a snake that has outgrown their home all because an owner under estimated the adult size of the snake and was unable to provide it with the necessary space.

Smaller species, such as the Ball Python, may be housed in a standard 20-gallon long glass aquarium throughout their entire life. Larger species, such as the common Boa Constrictor, will require a much larger enclosure based on their estimated adult size. A good general rule for enclosure size for larger species is to ensure that the enclosure is a minimum of one and one half the total length of the snake in enclosure length and one half the snake length in enclosure width. The height of the enclosure should be based on the particular species. Tree dwelling species will require a taller enclosure, while ground dwelling species will require more floor area.

The enclosure should have a very secure lid or door with some type of very sturdy locking system. Most boas and pythons are very strong and are very capable of lifting most standard cage lids. They are also capable of pushing out the screen of these types of lids. It is important to ensure that the lid or door be well ventilated to ensure proper air circulation within the enclosure.

Ground medium should be kept as simple as possible to afford ease of cleaning and safety for the snake. Newspaper, vinyl flooring and artificial grass all work the best. Ground medium to avoid includes ALL types of corn cob and wood chips. These materials may be accidentally ingested by the snake while it is eating. Some wood chips, such as cedar may cause skin irritation and give off vapors that are harmful to the snake. These materials also become moist very easily, this creates the perfect breeding medium for bacteria and fungus.

Special lighting is not required for Boas and Pythons, but exposure to natural sunlight is known to have beneficial psychological effects on behavior and eating habits. A standard clamp style lamp with a 60-watt bulb may be place 6-8 inches above one end of the enclosure. This will provide both light and a proper heat gradient for the snake. Additional heat from a heating pad or heating rock is not required if a proper heat gradient is created with an overhead heat/light source. Placing the overhead heat/light source on a timer will allow it to rotate on and off at a 12-14 hour interval. This will create a natural day/night cycle allowing for cooling off at night and warming up during the day to allow for proper physiological functions to occur and to reduce stress from constant exposure to light. No supplemental heat is needed at night, unless the temperature drops below 75 degrees F. Should supplemental heat become necessary than an addition lamp may be placed at the other end of the enclosure with a red light bulb. This will provide additional heat without the light.

In order to properly maintain a daytime ambient temperature of 80-85 degrees F, for most species, it may be necessary to increase either the wattage of the bulb or to adjust the distance between the light and the top of the enclosure. Temperature ranges may vary slightly from species to species so it is important to know the exact temperature range for your specific species. It is advisable to place a temperature and humidity gauge within the enclosure at the center to give you a proper ambient temperature and humidity reading.

The humidity level required for an individual species varies depending on the specific geographic region of the snake. On average most boas and pythons require a humidity level of about 60-70 percent. The best guide for temperature and humidity in a given species is the encyclopedia. By reading about the geographic location of a particular species and applying a little common sense it is easy to provide the proper temperature and humidity.

Proper feeding of Boas and Pythons is a relatively easy task for most species, with a few exceptions. The key to proper feeding is to remember a few simple rules.

The first and most important rule is to remember that Boas and Pythons are opportunistic feeders. This means that they DO NOT need to be fed on a regular basis. They do, however need to be fed every one to four weeks depending on the particular size and species of the individual snake. It is also important to vary the size of the prey as well as the interval between feedings.

Feeding a Boa or Python too frequently may have long term effects on its health. Snakes grow in direct proportion to the amount of food that they consume. By feeding large prey items frequently the snake will grow large at a very fast rate. This faster than normal growth rate is the direct result of the excess amounts of animal proteins in the prey items. These excess proteins may, at first, appear to be beneficial, but will eventually begin to take its toll on the liver and kidneys of the snake. The safest and most effective method for feeding Boas and Pythons is to feed at sporadic intervals of between one to four weeks, depending on the particular species and size of the individual snake. Varying both the number and size of the prey items also plays an important role in the over all long term health of the individual snake.

Some species may prove to be difficult eating and will eventually require very creative means and methods for enticing it to feed. Others will only feed on very specific warm-blooded prey items. These species are best left up to the advanced keeper, but most species will readily accept mice, rats, chicks, chickens and rabbits. The size will depend on the size of the snake. These items should only be offered as a pre-killed food item. Pre-killing prey is more humane for the prey item allows for freezing and easy storage and it provides safety for the snake from a prey item that is forced to fight for its life.

Providing a hiding box, branches and a proper temperature is vital to the entire feeding process of reptiles. A lack of a sense of security for the snake may cause it to stop feeding, while improper temperature or humidity may cause difficulty in digestion that may in turn lead to constipation and even more serious health concerns.

ALWAYS USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN FEEDING LARGE CONSTRICTORS. They are capable of inflicting a very serious bite. Never handle your snake after handling food items and always use a long feeding instrument, such as a mechanic's grabbing device to feed your snake

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