A law was passed in the 1970's that prevents the sale of aquatic turtles with a carapace (top shell) length of less than 4 inches. This law was the direct result of the potential for all reptiles to carry Salmonella. The size of the turtle is important because a turtle with a carapace length greater than 4 inches may not fit into the mouth of a young child as is the case with most young children, the author's included, everything that will fit into their mouths usually ends up there at one time or another. This creates a greater threat of contracting salmonella from a turtle with a carapace length of less than 4 inches. The size is also significant because a small turtle is more likely to be purchased by a parent for a small child due to its small size and relatively unthreatening appearance. Size should always be an important consideration for anyone thinking of purchasing a turtle for a child.
Aquatic turtles live most of their lives in the water only emerging from the water to bask, mate or deposit eggs. There are 3 basic groups of aquatic or semi aquatic turtles. The first group is made up of the Marsh and Pond turtles, which include cooter, sliders, painted turtles, map turtles, Blanding's turtles, pond turtles, chicken turtles, diamondback terrapins and redbelly turtles. Combined this group of individual species comprises the group of aquatic turtles known as March and Pond turtles. It should also be noted that a permit might be required in order to own some members of this group due to their protected or endangered status. It would be wise to check local, state and federal laws before considering any of these turtles for a pet.
The second group of aquatic turtles are those of the genera Macroclemys and Chelydra. This group is commonly known as the snapping turtles. The snapping turtles are some of the largest of all three groups and require large enclosures and cautious handling due to their aggressive nature and potentially dangerous bite. The members of this group spend most of their lives in the water and rarely ever leave the comfort of ponds, rivers and lakes. As is the case with some members of the Pond and Marsh turtle group, the alligator snapping turtle is a protected species and requires a permit in some areas. Both members of this group CAN AND WILL BITE WITHOUT WARNING, inflicting a serious and painful wound.
The final group of aquatic turtles belong to the Mud and Marsh turtle group and includes the "stinkpot" and "musk turtle", which have earned their common name as a result of the glands between the upper and lower shell (plastron) that produce a foul smelling fluid when the turtle feels threatened. This is a group that, like the snapping turtles, is strictly carnivorous.
Out of all three groups of turtles the most commonly kept species are the red-eared slider and the painted turtles. These turtles can be found in just about every pet store that sells reptiles. Because of their wide spread availability and low cost it is recommended that they only be purchased as a captive-bred animal from a pet store and NEVER TAKEN FROM THE WILD. The same is true if trying to find a home for your turtles. A captive animal SHOULD NEVER BE RELEASED INTO THE WILD. Wild collecting or releasing will upset the very delicate balance of a given ecosystem that may have very serious effects on the local population of turtles as a result of the increased or decreased number of turtles in a given area. Wild collection will decrease the number of turtles leading to an increase in the number of prey animals, which will begin to take over the particular system creating overcrowding and the eventual pushing out of the existing turtles. Wild releasing will place a greater demand on the food supply and eventually there will not be enough food for the number of turtles within the effected ecosystem causing the number of turtles in that system to begin to die off. Most people often ask themselves the question, "how can one turtle make such a big difference?" One turtle is also one more predator and one more breeder. Each turtle taken or added to an ecosystem is representative of all the young that it may produce within that ecosystem.
The floor of the enclosure should NOT be covered with gravel or aquarium sand, but left uncovered. This will allow for better visualization of when the enclosure is becoming fouled and it will also prevent the accidental ingestion of these materials by the turtle.
Water level within the enclosure should be a minimum of as deep as the length of the turtle's shell. Bottom dwelling species, such as the snapping, musk, mud and soft-shell turtles should be housed in deeper water that is twice as deep as the length of their shell. All aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles should be provided with a basking area that may consist of any sturdy material, such as driftwood, brick or rock. It is important to be sure that the materials used in the construction of a basking platform are strong and sturdy to ensure that they cannot topple over and pin the turtle underwater. This may cause the turtle to be unable to surface for air allowing it to drown. Other materials to avoid are concrete blocks and any other material with a rough surface that will scratch and wear the turtle's shell when it climbs out of the water and onto the basking area.
It is also very important to ensure that the enclosure that you choose is deep enough to ensure the proper water level while still allowing enough of the enclosure wall to extend high enough out of the water to prevent the turtle from climbing out of the enclosure. Turtles are very good climbers despite their clumsy appearance. Don't be fooled by a turtles appearance, always escape proof your enclosure. Providing a wire or screen lid will allow for proper ventilation and also help to prevent other household pets like the family cat or dog from making a meal out of your turtle.
An overhead heat/light source may be provided for aquatic species to provide a proper day/night light cycle, but the primary heat source is the submersible heater. This type of overhead heat/light source is vital to semi-aquatic species and provides them with a basking area in which to climb up out of the water and bask in the 80 degree F daytime heat of the overhead light bulb. Exposure to natural sunlight should be provided as often as possible.
Some aquatic turtles are carnivorous throughout live, but others are strict carnivores as young and become more omnivorous as they grow, adding more and more plant matter to their diet. Plants matter that is nutritional and may be offered from time to time include, collard greens, turnip greens and dandelion greens. Plants such as cabbage, spinach, iceberg lettuce and kale should be avoided, as they tend to bind calcium or inhibit thyroid function, both of which are vital to a turtle's metabolic processes.
Strict carnivores, such as the snapping turtle, may be fed the same commercial foods along with the periodical addition of worms, whole fish and crayfish. Some snapping turtles will often readily accept the innards of a turkey. They will also accept chicken liver, but these items should be offered for variety and NOT as a staple of the diet.
Supplementation is usually not necessary if your turtle is fed a varied diet of the above items, but it will help to ensure their health if feed only one particular food item. The best method for supplementing their diet is to provide them with dog or cat vitamins that are sold by most veterinarians. It is important to ensure that the vitamins that you select contain both calcium and vitamin D3. Most vitamin and mineral supplements that are available for reptiles are sold in liquid and powder form making it difficult to administer to a turtle in the water. The dog and cat vitamins contain the necessary vitamins and minerals and come in a tablet form that is often readily accepted by most turtles, since these vitamins are flavored. These types of vitamins should be offered once a week to strict carnivores, but are not essential for omnivorous turtles due to the varied vitamins and minerals that they receive in their diet. If offered to omnivorous turtles a supplement should only be offered once a month to prevent over supplementation and related health disorders.
Since an aquatic turtle lives in its own toilet it is very important to their overall health to provide them with some form of filtration. There are many filters that are available from any pet store that sells tropical fish. The particular filter that you select should be the best that is available. Submersible and outside canister filters work the best, but are also the most expensive types of filter. Out of all the equipment that you will have to purchase for your turtle this is the most important and if it means spending less on a fancy glass aquarium in order to be able to afford a top quality filter than the author would suggest doing so. The best way to select a filter is to visit a local aquarium store and find out what they are using in their largest display tanks. These filters are often very heavy duty and best suited to deal with the large amount of waste produced by an aquatic turtle and the excess food debris created when the turtle eats
Partial water changes should be performed on a minimum of twice a month and complete water changes should be performed on a monthly basis. Both the filter and basking sites should be scrubbed and rinsed off with every full or partial water change. Weekly complete water changes are best, but difficult for most owners to perform. The less difficult that you can make you're cleaning routine, the less likely you are to tire of caring for you turtle. A dechlorinating solution for fish tanks should be added whenever the water is changed. These are readily available from any tropical fish store and relatively inexpensive, just be sure and follow the directions on the label for proper usage.
