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FA and some not-so FAQs
Many of the Q&A's you see here are applicable to any of the Kawasaki Vulcan line of bikes; some to just about any bike. However, some are specific to the 800 series. That's 'cause I'm an 800 specialist!
For information specific to the 1500A/B/C (BUBF), go to Manjo's site.
For information specific to the 700/750, go to JR Allas' or gYpSy's site.
For information specific to the Nomad and 1500 Classic (and some excellent info applicable to most bikes), go to Gadget's site. This one is the cat's ass!
For information specific to the 1600, go to Jax's Group.
For information specific to the 2000, go to the Rogue Owners Group site.
Sorry, at this point there are no analogous sites specific to the 500s, the Drifters or the Mean Streak. If you know of one, please contact me with the site name, URL, and owner, and I'll be happy to add it!
My dealer/vendor says that I have to rejet if I change exhaust systems.
Not so. Rejetting is necessary when the air/fuel mixture is radically upset; changing the exhaust side of the equation from OEM to a performance aftermarket system doesn't do this. This change does allow exhaust gases to be scavenged out more quickly, paving the way for other performance upgrades, such as a less restrictive airbox (which will require rejetting.)
As Gunslinger (VROC #953) put it:
"Or, in other words, think of it as starting out with a gag in your mouth and a cork up your ass. Can't take it in OR let it out. Remove only the cork, and you can let it out... but still not take any extra in. Thus, no need to rejet. If you remove only the gag, you *can* take extra in, but letting it out is problematic. Rejetting will probably be needed, but not be very efficient. Remove both the gag and the cork, and then you have a clean shot at extra intake AND outflow... thus
rejetting *will* be necessary in order to efficiently make use of the extra flow."
In less pithy terms
Vendors and dealers tell you to rejet when changing the exhaust system for one or more of three reasons; they don't know any better (hardly likely with vendors), money, and liability. Dealers, service managers, and wrenches may not know any better, so they tell you to rejet because they were told to. If you choose to rejet, the vendor gets to sell you their jet kit, or the dealer does, which amounts to the same thing, only it costs more due to dealer markup. The dealer then gets more money for the labor of installing the kit. The liability issue is purely CYA; if your motor burns up because it was running too lean, both the dealer and the vendor can say, "You were told to rejet..."
Simple fact; it just isn't necessary. However, as new bikes are generally set at the factory to run very lean, it would benefit you to open up the idle mixture screw ½ a turn or so.
Unless you are wanting to switch from an aftermarket performance exhaust back to the OEM system! But that's a whole different container of vermi.
My dealer says I should run premium fuel in my 800; 93 octane, the good stuff.
It's as good a way as any to waste your money and screw up your engine, I suppose... The pure fact is that the 800 engine is designed and built to run on regular unleaded fuel; 87 octane. The "good stuff" isn't good stuff; not for these bikes. The octane rating of fuel measures its resistance to burning, and the higher the number, the higher the resistance. Higher-compression engines that need higher octane are set to produce the spark earlier on the timing curve, to allow the air/fuel mixture to burn properly. Using 93 octane fuel in an 800 results in incomplete combustion; and what is the result of incomplete combustion? Right; carbon buildup in the cylinder head.
This is not a theoretical hypothesis; it's been borne out by hard data from field experience. Suffice it to say that the 800 engine is happiest with good-quality 87 octane unleaded fuel. Run that, and nothing but that, and your bike will be your companion for a lot of miles of smiles.
For the rest of the Vulcan line, at least start out with the fuel grade recommended by the Motorcycle Owner's Manual (MOM) or the stickers on the bike (you did read them before you took them off, right?
My dealer says to lube the chain every 300 miles; what should I use?
How about using some solid information? Modern O-ring and X-ring chains not only don't need lubrication, the lubrication can't even get to where it needs to be! These chains come from the factory with lubrication already sealed internally in the roller pins and bushings; the O-ring and X-ring seals (the only difference between the two is the shape of the seal) keep that lubrication in and the crud out.
However, cleaning the chain is essential to longevity. If dirt and grit build up on the chain, it can get to the seals and start degrading them (like working away on them with sandpaper). As this progresses, the seals will fail, which will allow the internal lubrication to get out, and the dirt to get in!
Research on forums and the cycle mags will yield multiple techniques on cleaning the chain, ranging from removing it and soaking it in kerosene, then soaking it in used motor oil, to spraying it down with a manufacturer's pet "mystery elixer" and lots of scrubbing. So what works? What's simple? A can of WD40™ and an old toothbrush. If you have a lift, or even a rear-wheel only lift (Build your own for less than $20.00!), get the rear wheel off the ground, then while rotating the rear wheel, spray WD40™ on the chain. Soak it down well! Still rotating the rear wheel, apply the toothbrush to the top of the rollers, the bottom, and both sides of the chain. Spray it down again to remove any loosened crud, and you're done!
If you don't have a lift (and don't want to build one), then spray down the area of chain you can get to, scrub it off, then move the bike forward or backward to expose more chain. Repeat the process until the entire chain has been cleaned.
How often to do this will vary on the type of roads you ride on. If you're like me and you have to ride on ¼ mile of dirt/gravel road just to get to the highway, and deal with dirt/gravel parking lots every day, I'd say every 300 miles wouldn't be overkill. If you have to ride 100 miles even to find dirt, then less often is fine...
What about adjusting the slack? How much should be there, how do I do it, and how often?
There should be no less than 25mm (1") and no more than 35mm (1.4", or approximately
13/8") of freeplay (slack) in the chain. The proper procedure is to get the rear wheel up in the air (see above for lift), then rotate while checking chain deflection at the midpoint of the stretch between the front and rear sprockets, on the return (bottom) run of the chain, until you find the tightest (least deflection) point. When you find this point, mark it somehow (felt-tip pens on chain sideplates doesn't work too well!
How often? Depends on your riding style. If you ride like the Wolf (hard and aggressive), then every 600 miles would be just about right. If you ride like a bluehair, then you could probably get away with every 2000 miles... I'm tired of messing with the chain; I've heard about a belt drive conversion kit. What's involved with that? A company called Scootworks puts out the Wide Drive Belt Drive Conversion Kit™. I, and a number of my buddies, have a great deal of intimate knowledge of this system. Have a look at the comparison between the belt and chain drives and make your own decision. Sometimes my bike will sputter/cough/die when I'm running down the road! I just filled up, so there's plenty of gas. Better check your fuel vent. Either the line is kinked or the fuel vent valve is fouled. Quick check; open the fuel cap. If there's a whoosh like opening a fresh can of Planters, then this is the problem; the fuel tank has taken on a vacuum, and that sound is the air rushing in. If you are fortunate enough for the engine to still be running when you do this (you do have a spare key, right?), and it starts running properly, there's the confirmation. This can happen when you fill the tank too full; the fuel gets into the vent valve and blocks air from coming in to take the place of fuel that flows out. There is a pretty trick fix for this, worked out by Doogie (VROC #12748). My throttle response isn't what it used to be; the bike's still strong, there's no popping or backfiring, and MPG hasn't changed. It just takes longer for the throttle input to "hit", and the revs to start to spool up. It's possible that the rubber diaphragm around the throttle slide has developed a pinhole or crack; it does happen over time. This is a fairly common problem on bikes that haven't relocated the crankcase vent breather, as oil deteriorates this rubber. Remove the throttle slide and diaphragm assembly, and have a close look at it with a powerful magnifying glass and strong lighting. If you see any pinholes or cracks, there's the problem. You could replace it with an OEM assembly (Kawasaki part number 16126-1170, $90.50 through Ron Ayers). Or, presuming the hole(s) or tear(s) aren't too numerous or too big, and the rest of the diaphragm material is still pliable, you can repair it yourself. Let Bounty Hunter show you how. At least try repairing it before replacing it; if the bike's already running poorly, what do you have to lose? I've relocated the crankcase vent breather with a vent filter; now I get oil mist all over my bike! The mounting point for the vent filter and the routing of the breather line play a big part in this; the vent filter should be mounted as high as practical, and the breather line should be routed so that it runs without any dips (which will collect condensed oil) from the crankcase vent itself to the vent filter. The purpose of the crankcase vent is to relieve overpressure in the crankcase. The overpressure is caused by oil blow-by from the top end; at high revs (really cranking on the throttle, or sustained high-speed cruising), oil will blow by the piston rings and wind up in the crankcase. Without the crankcase vent, the crankcase would then pressurize to the point where it would become increasingly difficult for the pistons to come back down... Obviously, as the oil is being stirred up quite a bit in the crankcase while the engine is running, there is oil mist in the air inside the crankcase. When the crankcase vent opens to release the pressure, air flows out of it; and the oil in that air is what creates the mist around the vent filter as it is expelled. The filter media will absorb some of it, but in time it becomes saturated and the mist blows right through. There is a surprisingly simple and inexpensive solution! Marty Kronen came up with this one. What spark plugs should I use in my bike?
Ones that fit? NGK also offers the CR7E in the Iridium series. There is no "performance enhancement" claimed for these plugs, but they last considerably longer than the "traditional" variety. They're more expensive (about double) than traditional, but according to the field data I've collected (admittedly sparse as of the time of this writing; few people have made the switch, and even fewer pile up the mileage quickly enough for a definitive sample), they last more than twice as long. Very few dealers will stock the Iridium plugs; you can order them, or the traditional CR7E (at a lower price) through sparkplugs.com. The spark plug in the rear cylinder fouls every so often. What's up with that, and what's the solution?
The rear cylinder in all of the Vulcans (except, of course, the inline twin 500) runs a trifle richer than the front. The closest anyone has come to explaining why is that the rear cylinder runs a bit cooler than the front; mainly because with the radiator in front of it, the front cylinder doesn't get the benefit of cooling air, whereas the rear cylinder does. I've always been told that the "cooling fins" on the Vulcan line (hell, on all liquid-cooled motorcycle engines!) are strictly cosmetic, and provide no cooling affect.
In most cases, that doesn't seem to matter; but in some, this causes plug fouling. The best solution that has been found by the Vulcan community is to go up one step in heat range to the next hotter plug; in the case of the 800, the NGK CR6E. Literally noone who has installed a CR6E in the rear cylinder has had this problem occur again. It does no harm to put a CR6E in the front cylinder as well, just so you don't have to order two different plugs, and especially if most of your riding is either highway or hard mountain running (like me!).
Very few dealers stock the CR6E, so you would have to have them order it. A good source to simply order your own would be (again) sparkplugs.com. As of this writing, NGK does not seem to offer the CR6E in the Iridium series.
My bike jumps when I put it in gear in the mornings. Is that normal?
It is if it's the first start. The wet clutch on Vulcans reacts to the viscosity of the oil it's bathed in. When the oil is cold, the clutch plates tend to stick together. Thus the clutch is not entirely disengaged, so when you put the transmission in gear, it jumps a bit. Best cure is to hold the clutch in for several seconds before putting the bike in gear.
Something else to consider; Vulcans are liquid-cooled, and no matter how long you let them idle in the driveway before taking off, they won't warm up to full operating temperature. They only warm up properly under load; it takes about 10 miles of riding to get them up to temp. And since you can't expect the engine to scream until her throat is warmed up, you might not want to drop the hammer and drag-launch out of the driveway.
The headlight sure doesn't put out much; can anything be done?
Sure! The OEM headlight isn't much more than a housing and focusing assembly for a standard automotive H4 halogen bulb. The one that comes in there is 55/60 watts; pretty lame. Go to just about any automotive parts store and pick up an H4 halogen 55/100 or 80/100 (my personal preference) watt bulb. The Xenon and SuperWhite bulbs appear to put out more light, but they burn out faster. There are also 100/130 watt H4 bulbs available, but that's making quite a demand on the charging system when the engine is running at low RPM. Remember the 800's alternator puts out 35 amps; if you have a lot of electrical accessories onboard, it can get to the point where you're running down the battery when you're at low RPM.
Consult MOM for instructions on how to change the headlamp bulb. Just make sure you're removing the bezel mounting screws instead of the headlight adjuster screws (don't ask how I know!
Speaking of headlight adjustment, very few of the ones I've seen come from the factory with the beam adjusted properly. Just doing this could go a long way toward letting you see more of where you're going.
Any flat vertical surface will do for this, but the easiest target is the front door of your house, if the bottom of the door is at ground level. If not, make a mark 36" from the ground on a convenient vertical surface. If so, the doorknob is your target. Either way, park the bike 25' away from the target, lined up with it. With the headlight on low beam, and sitting on the bike with it upright in riding position, see where the center of the beam hits. Betcha it's below the target... Tweak the vertical adjustment screw until the center of the beam is centered on the doorknob (or the mark). Adjust horizontally as needed. The headlight is now properly adjusted, and even with an 80/100 watt bulb, the cagers won't be blinded on low beam.
What's the best oil and filter to use on my bike?
Oh, no you don't! I ain't going there! Those are some of the most controversial subjects hashed out on any biker forum. Dino vs synth vs blend, Fram vs NAPA vs OEM... As far as I'm concerned, suffice it to say that virtually any detergent oil, dino, synth, or blend, that falls within the proper viscosity range (10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50), and does not contain "friction enhancers", will work just fine on a bike; and it doesn't have to be motorcycle or V-Twin specific! Just make sure it gets changed every 3000 miles. Change the filter every time the oil is changed. Period.
If you don't want to use the OEM oil filter, check this cross-reference for a list of oil filters that will work on our bikes.
WARNING! Not all of the filters listed in the cross-reference have been verified for factory-specified amount of oil flow, let-off pressure, presence/absence of a bypass valve, or even type of media. Use of any of these oil filters is strictly at your own risk! Neither I, nor any of my contributors, endorse any of these products nor assume any responsibility for damage incurred by the use of them.
OK, what's a "friction enhancer"?
"Friction enhancers" are ingredients (usually in the teflon family) that oil manufacturers add to the basic oil formula to make it more "slippery". Normally what happens is the microscopic beads of teflon bond to the metal surfaces that are bathed in the oil. This lowers the coefficient of friction, so there is less wear between the metal surfaces. That's exactly why it's so deadly to any bike with a wet clutch; the teflon gets on the clutch plates, which makes them slip. Since getting power to the rear wheel requires that the clutch plates don't slip, this is a bad thing...
What the heck is Sea Foam, and where can I get some?
Sea Foam is the be-all and end-all of everything! According to some, it can cure impotency, baldness, warts, pimples, dingleberries... As far as we bikers are concerned, Sea Foam is a super fuel additive. It stabilizes the fuel by encapsulating any water in it (makes it great for storing the bike over winter; works much better than Stabil!) and cleans the carb of any gum that's built up as well as the top end of the engine of carbon buildup. Used as a prophylactic measure every 3000 miles, it keeps the carbon from building up in the first place. And if you don't ride the Vulcan 800 as it likes to be ridden, ie as if you were a madman, then prophylactic doses of Sea Foam are highly recommended.
As for where to get it, Sea Foam can usually be found at any good auto parts store or marine supply store.
Want more information? Get it from the manufacturer.
What on earth are those little bells I see hanging on some of these bikes?
Those are "gremlin bells". Thunder (VROC #10157) will tell you more.
What are the best tyres to put on my bike?
Uh-uh! Ain't going there, either! Avon Venom X, Metzler ME880, Dunlop 404 and 491, Michelin Commander, the list goes on... Some people swear by one kind, others swear at it. I've used the Dunlop Cruisemax (no longer in production) and liked them; ME880s and liked them better, and currently have a Dunlop 491 on the back with the ME880 in the front. Bike sticks like glue and tracks like it's on rails. Make sure the tyres are properly mounted and balanced, keep the pressure in them where it belongs (both in terms of PSI and inside the tyre!), don't cheap out and buy something off-brand like Chen Shing, and life will be good.
OK, what about that pressure? What should it be?
MOM says 28 PSI front, 32 PSI rear. I did that with the OEM tyres on my 800A, and they handled like a wallowing whale, howled like the damned, and wore out in 11,163 miles, with bad cupping on the front. With the Dunlops, I ran 40/40; what a difference! Same with the ME880s. Look on the sidewall of whatever tyre is on your bike; the manufacturer will have a "Maximum PSI Rating", usually around 40 PSIG. Don't exceed this rating, but air the tyres up to as close to this rating as possible. This will give you the best combination of handling, wear, MPG, and comfort (the lower pressures make the tyres softer, which translates to more comfort, but they also run hotter, which translates to more danger of blowout).
If you want to get more precise with the "perfect" air pressure for your bike, have a look at the article "Lucky" Al (VROC #9147) provided.
It's getting cold; how do I go about winterizing my bike?
That depends on how anal you are about it. I saw a list somewhere that had over 100 steps on it; it started with washing the bike thoroughly...
But here's the short course, straight from cold country. I've been doing this to my bike for 6 years, and every spring when I roll her out she starts right up. And mine hibernates in an unheated shed where the temperatures have gone as low as -60ºF...
I keep hearing about "Scooterizing"; what's that?
Ever look at a bike cataloug and see the baffling array of aftermarket airbox kits? HyperCharger, ForceWinder, SideWinder, Tornado, Hurricane, Big Sucker, etc, etc, ad nauseam...
Scooterizing is very simply a do-it-yourself way of producing the same effect as all of these expensive aftermarket kits, while saving lots of $$. It was developed by Scooter (VROC #2571) off the already famous "Coyote Kit" for the 1500s. "Scoot" on over and check it out.
What about "Grampsizing"?
A different version of Scooterizing; a do-it-yourself airbox mod, developed by Gramps (VROC #300), with a different look. See for yourself.
What about the "Okie Air System"?
The OAS was researched and developed by Okie Smoke (VROC #6745); hence the name. In a nutshell, it's a Drag Specialties Dragtron II airbox designed for Harley-Davidson big twins; but it works great on the Vulcan 800! Field data on this mod has been very exciting; it looks way cool, IMO, and the power it develops is super! I myself have only just installed it, so empirical research is just beginning; a page for this system will be added as soon as sufficient data has been gathered from my own "butt dyno".
One thing, however; while this, unlike the Scooterizing or Grampsizing mods, is a true bolt-on aftermarket system, the cost runs higher. About $200.00, depending on where parts are purchased; roughly double the cost of Scooterizing or Grampsizing. Still less expensive than most of the other aftermarket bolt-on systems, but if money is tight, Scooterizing or Grampsizing are decidedly viable alternatives, and it's easy to "upgrade" when the money shakes loose.
I'd like to get my SO to ride with me; but he/she is scared to get on the back of the bike.
That's a lot more common than you might think. There's a lot of folks who have ridden passenger before and had a bad experience with it, or have the "motorcycles are dangerous!" mantra drilled into them. If they're willing to try, however, then have a look at an excellent treatise my very good friend AJ (VROC #943) provided.
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this means that the OEM systems, both intake and exhaust, are quite restrictive. Change the exhaust system (remove the cork), and you get rid of the burnt gases easily. However, you're left with the OEM intake system (the gag), so you're not taking in any extra; hence no need to rejet.
A number of folks have tried different brand plugs than the factory-recommended NGK CR7E spark plugs, and they got bad results. This is one time when Kawasaki got it spot on, because the bike just doesn't run right if you use a different brand of plugs.
