Sideblotched Lizards:
(Uta stanburiana) Baird and Girard, 1852.
Sideblotched Lizards:
(Uta stanburiana)
Baird and Girard, 1852.
Uta stansburiana & subspecies.
1. Common sideblotched lizard. (U.s. stansburiana)
Found; Nevada, Utah, California, Arizona.
2. California Sideblotched lizard (U.s. elegans)
Found; California, Arizoona, Mexico.
3. Nevada “Northern” Sideblotched lizard. (U. s. nevadensis)
Found: Nevada, Oregon,Washington, Idaho.
4. Desert Sideblotched Lizard. (U.s. stejneegeri)
Found: New Mexico, Texas and Mexico,
Possibly also found in Utah and Colorado.
5. Colorado Sideblotched Lizard. (U.s. uniformis)
Found; Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Utah
General Information:
Male Sideblotched lizards are slightly larger than females and can
measure from 1-4” when measured from the tip of the nose to the vent
slit just before the tail begins. Scientists call this method of
measurement S.V.L. (Snout,Vent, length.)
Male Sideblotched lizards are more colorful than females.
This is called sexual dimorphism. Males may also exibit a high degree
of orange pigmentation when breeding. Females have striking blotched
or white striped patterns that are also very attractive but lack the bright
coloration of the males. The pattern of the females varies from spots
to stripes and blends brown, white and grey speckles.
Sideblotched lizards have A black to blue “blotch” that is found on the
chest directly behind the front legs.
This blotch is the deciding charicturistic in defining the species.
Males also have yellow and blue blotches and speckles on their back as well.
Interesting enough, Patternless Sideblotched lizards are not uncommon
especially around sand dunes, and dry lake beds.
Sideblotched lizards are generally the most common lizards,
to be seen by people who are hiking in the desert.
The Sideblotched lizard seem’s to like to “observe” people often times
seeming to wonder what we are...
Sideblotched lizards are very common and are found through out
most of the desert regons, from the Pacific coast and found on sand
dunes moving through all of Nevada, in parts on Utah, Oregon and
Washington extending down to Texas and into Mexico.
Sideblotched lizards can be found in open deserts, campgrounds
and vacant desert lots. Sideblotched lizards do not seem to prefere
one substrate over another and can be found from sand dunes to
desert grasslands. Occuring on the sides of desert hills and small
mountians to 6,500 feet. Sideblotched lizards are very adaptable.
Of all of the Desert lizards, the Sideblotched lizard can be found
through out the year on warm days, even in colder months.
Sideblotched lizards can be found around the bases of small desert
shrubs and also in rock piles and rocky hillsides.
When enclontered they may allow an observer to go get within a few
inches before darting under any available hide shelter.
They are dirunal, and are rarely if ever, encluntered at night.
The role of the Sideblotched Lizard in the Wild:
Sideblotched lizards are commonly the food item for many of the
deserts prediators including; Snakes, Road runners, small hawks,
Collard and Leopard lizards. Rodents may also eat them.
Sideblotched lizards are very succesful by being so enviromentally
adaptive and by producing several clutches of eggs each season thus
insuring the continued succces of the species.
Captive Care & Encloures:
Male Sideblotched lizards are aggressive and should not be housed
together. In nature a male sideblotched lizard may have a terratory
of 150’ (feet). Females are allowed inside this 150 foot square but
a male will rush to defend its “block” from any other male intruders.
In captivity, one male and several females makes a nice colony.
An enclosure of at least 36” long should be used to house them.
As mentioned decoration and substrate are not as important as
providing a shelter. Sideblotched lizards are lively little lizards that
seem to constantly dart about nerviously if not given a small cave to
hide in. Using sand as a substrate also works nice for them as it
provides them with the oppertunity to bury into it each nite.
Sideblotched lizards will “bob” heads and seem to have a
communication and terratory system that is enjoyible to watch in the
enclosure.
Sideblotched lizards are found in the desert and they require higher
temperatures than many other captive reptiles.
An ideal Sideblotched setup would be a 30 to 55 gallon aquarium
or like sized wooden encloure. If you use wood to construct your
enclosure, make sure that vent holes are present and that care has
been taken to properly seal all small cracks or your lizards will escape.
A screen cover of sunscreen or screen-door screen should be used to
cover the top of the enclosure. Remember to use a mesh size that
they cannot slip through.
Substrate
Should reflect native location, sand, small pebbles or crushed lava
or pumace make nice substrate. For decoration , Small succulants
or plastic “fake” cactus may also be used.
Sideblotched lizards have been housed on newspaper and turf carpet.
Common thought is that you should provide an enclosure that is as
“natural” as possible, your lizards will be much happier and will live
longer. Sand makes an attractive, natural display.
Providing a shelter or small cave is important as sideblotched lizards
need a retreat from prying human eyes, and two shelters should be
considered. Rocks may also be used to decorate and sideblotched
lizards will perch on them especially if located under the spot lamp.
Be sure that all of the rocks are anchored or touching the bottom, so
that the rocks will not fall on top of or crush your lizards should
they dig around them or climb between them.
Lighting
The enclosure should be lite by at least a 30” *full spectrum light.
and two are better than one.
This is not the same as a tropical fish lite or common shop bulb.
This light should be on a timer and set to come on at 6 am and go off
at 6 pm in the summer and, be reduced by a few hours in the winter.
spot lamps (clip on lights):
A spot lamp with a 40 to 60 watt incandesent bulb should be placed
over the side of the encloure above the heat pad and should priovide
a “hot” spot of at least 100 f., during the day and should also be on
the timer, and go OFF at night allowing the temperature to drop.
Heat
Should be provided by the use of an “under the tank heater”(U.T.H.)
or heating pad, This pad should be placed so that it it not pinched by
the tank or wooden frame. Heating pads and heaters work best if some
air can circulate around them, providing convection.
The heating pad should be located on the “hot” side of the encloure
and should be located below the spot lamp. A rock or perching object
should be placed over this spot so that the heat from the pad “radiates”.
Hot and Cool sides of the Enclosure:
Lizards need to be able to regulate their body temperature, they will
do this by moving from the hot to the cool side of the enclosure.
Care must be taken so that lizards can move away from the “hot” side
of the encloure. If the enclosure is too small the lizards may overheat
and die. The “cool” side of the enclosure should be near 80 f during
the day and can drop to 70 f at night.
The “hot” side temperature will be reduced a bit as the spot light goes
out at nite, but will remain warmer due to the heating pad under the
tank. A hide shelter should be located on both the “hot” and “cool”
sides of the encloure. Remember, because of the heat rising from
under the tank on the “hot” side, a small air hole must be drilled in
the shelter on the hot side to allow trapped hot air to escape,
otherwise the hide shelter can become a death trap for your lizards.
Feeding:
Sideblotched lizards will eat any small insect that they can swallow.
One report claims that they may also eat other smaller lizards,
this is not likely as they tend to be the smallest lizards in their ecosystems.
In the wild, they eat small spiders, ticks, grasshoppers and beetles.
In captivity they eagerly accecpt two week old crickets, fruit flies,
small mealworms and mealworm beetles. Waxworm months are also relished.
Sideblotched lizards will also eat an occasional small honey pot or
black ant.
I have noted that they run from red harvester ants and fire ants.
A Great method for feeding small crickets and mealworms to your
lizards, is to place a small clear tupperware dish submurged into the
substrate. Make sure that the lizards can see down into it.
It is important that you plcae a small piece of apple or orange for
your insects to eat and drink while in the food dish, so that they do
not die before they are consumed by your lizards.
You should also be feeding “dusted” insects.
Some vitamins can be sprinkled into the food dish, but be careful
not to put too much on them, otherwise the insects will die before
being consumed by your lizards.
Dusting:
A common term used to describe “coating” prey items with vitamins
or medications so that when consumed by reptiles they receive the
intended dose of medications,vitamins and/or minerals.
A simple method for “dusting” is to place the food insect(s) into
a plastic baggie or small plastic container. Place a small amount of a
good quality reptile vitamin/mineral suppliment into the baggie or
container and shake. Once the food is coated with the vitains simply
release them into the encloure. Be sure to only coat a few insects at
a time, the reason for this is that the vitamins will kill the insects and
if your animals don’t eat all of them they may all die before you can
feed them to your animals.
Water :
Should be provided in a low rock type water dish, water need not be
moving to attract them to it.
* Clean water should be provided daily.
*(note: Some keepers of Desert reptiles advise against putting a water dish into
desert encloures as it may cause high humidity that might lead to shedding
problems. I have never found this to be the case.
Captive Longevity & Reproduction:
In captivity, Sideblotched lizards may live for 5 or more years.
Breeding can be acomplished by allowing a winter hibernation to occur.
After a cooling period, when the male and females are placed back
into the enclosure and temperatures are GRADUALLY retuned to
normal, breeding can occur.
Actual copluation is usually proceeded by courtship involving;
head bob’s and push up displays, licking of the females ventral area
as well as licking the back of the females neck followed by the male
grasping the back of the females neck in his mouth. Their tails and
ventral areas intwine in typical lizard breeding fasion.
*Male sideblotched lizards will not attack and persue females to breed,
there for breeding occurs after hibernation and by the color and sight
of females within the Males terratory.
*(Ferguson 1966)
If the female(s) are submissive and allow the male’s advances,
breeding will surely follow.
Breeding may occur in any warmer months but is most common in
early summer. Females can store sperm and thus may be able to
produce more than one clutch without being mated each time.
Up to seven clutches may be laid during the year. Eggs should be placed
in virmiculite in a deli style cup placed in an incubatior at 85 f.
Gestation takes 50 -60 days at 85f.
Companions:
Side blotched lizards make great companions for Banded geckos
and Horned lizards also for some smaller spiny’s and swifts.
Don’t forget that because they are small, larger lizards can and
will prey on them!
Do not keep them with large Spiny’s, Leopard or Collard lizards.
Do not house more than one male together as aggression and fighting
will occur, also sometimes a larger male may keep a smaller male
from eating.
Captive v.s Wild Collected:
Consider buying Sideblotched lizards when possible from repitible
dealers; who list them for sale. But, keep in mind that they are many
times not listed on dealers lists except as “feeder” lizards.
You may have to inquire about them as they are often collected as
“feeders” for snakes and many times they are in poor shape when purchased.
Collection of a few specimens may be better than purchasing them.
Weigh the options. Years ago many herpetoculturists collected side
blotched lizards by burying a five gallon bucket to the rim and
placing a old board or simular item over it to conceil it.
The lizard collector would come back the next moring to empty
the bucket of all of the small lizards that would fall in. Care must be
taken with this type of trap as spiders and scorpions also fall into
these buckets and may bite or sting when you reach into the bucket.
Do not use a bucket trap unless you plan to check the bucket everyday
until you have collected a few lizards. You should then remove the
bucket and rebury the hole.
You should never abandon the bucket trap as any captured lizards
will surly die from exposure to the heat building up within the bucket,
as well as to preditors like snakes and even dogs and cats that may
hear the little lizards scratching for freedom at the sides of the bucket.
Collection and the Law:
Sideblotched lizards may be field collected in most western states.
However, laws are constantly changing and a person should always
“Check” BEFORE you “Collect”!
Even in restricted states, some will allow you to collect a few for
your personal collection. A fish or wildlife tag or liscence may be
required for a small fee.
My captive Observations:
My captive observations with this species have been positive.
With the exception, They are very small and do NOT seem to enjoy
handling at all.
I find that cleaning the encosure is best done by moving them to a
holding bucket, otherwise they dart around in a mad attempt to
allude the hand of the keeper. I have housed these small lizards
with a variety of other desert species including Horned lizards and
Banded geckos.
The Sideblotched lizards are active lizards that eat readily in
captivity, drink freely and seem to not mind human observance.
They seldom scratch at the walls as if begging for release as some
species do, instead the males establish a terratory and can be
observed in a variety of activities.
Sideblotched lizards enjoy sunning on key perch positions, moving
about searching for small crickets, especially in early morning and
late afternoon and communicating by head bobbing and doing lizard
push-ups. The Sideblotched lizards have proven to be very interesting
lizards, well worth keeping as pets.
