Dec 1997/ Jan 1998
"Don't shoot!" ("Ma't awis!") is still on the list of essential phases in the Lebanese Tourist Board Office Guide, so it was with some apprehension that we embarked on a driving holiday in the Lebanon. Our fears were unfounded. The country is now perfectly safe, but there is one dangerous weapon - the car horn!
In the Lebanon, as with most Middle Eastern countries, all driving is done with the aid of the horn. It accompanies all vehicle manoeuvres anywhere. At first it confused me, then I got used to the noise and finally got a smug satisfaction about doing it myself without embarressment along with everyone else. After a week of driving around the Lebanon my ear drums were bursting. English traffic was ghostlike in comparison.
Before the civil war which lasted nearly two decades, the Lebanon was the most popular holiday destination in the Middle East. Impressive ruins, under-used ski slopes and a cosmopolitan attitude attracted the tourists. Nowadays you will find a country that still has a Syrian, Israeli and United Nations presence but is trying to rebuild itself and regain its reputation.
Lebanon is a very small country. If you can bypass the gridlock of Beirut, it only takes four hours to drive its length down the Mediterranean coastal plain, and even less to cover its width over the twisting roads of the Mount Lebanon range towards Syria. Despite its size, there are plenty of things to see in a relaxing week of touring. Beirut airport is small and lies in the middle of a vast wasteland where Syrian soldiers still sit astride camouflaged tanks. A stark contrast to Heathrow. The capital, which was heavily bombed, is still recovering. Petrol is a staggering six pence a litre. Diesel is three pence, and the car to drive if you are a local is a road hogging Mercedes Saloon of any age or road-worthiness. At the Europcar stand, we picked up a more modest Hyundai Accent 1.3 for £159 a week including insurance and unlimited mileage, and headed north along the major highway to Tripoli.
This road following the coast was excellent. Unfortunately, the locals' attitude to driving was not. It only took ninety minutes to reach the second largest city in the Lebanon, but the journey was hair-raising. Cars pulled out of side roads with no regard for oncoming traffic. Indicators were never used, but the horn was of course - constantly. We endured this experience repeatedly during the week but saw no major accidents due to the lack of road discipline. Generally the state of the roads is fine and the sights are well signposted.
Tripoli did not suffer from the civil war like Beirut. The old city with its souks still retains a lot of character. It also offers a great Turkish bath. The Citadel sits impressively over the town and from there can be seen the snow slopes in the east. The Lebanon used to sell itself on the fact that you could ski in the morning and swim in the afternoon - the California of the Middle East. It is still true and the ski slopes are pleasantly uncrowded with superb views over the valleys. This area is known as 'The Cedars' which provided the wood for the ancient Egyptian navy, but there are only a few hundred of the famous trees left. On the coast, the beaches are rather dirty but will be improved with time.
Just south of Tripoli lie the compact ruins of the ancient city of Byblos, a mish-mash of 7000 years of history from Neolithic foundations to a Crusader castle built with Roman pillars next to a Persian fortress.
Baalbeck, in the north east of the country is less than three hours from Beirut, and has possibly the most stunning Roman ruins anywhere. It is located in an area where the radical militants supposedly hid out in-between their bombing campaigns. Consequently, you have to pass through a dozen army road blocks en-route. The Lebanese or Syrian soldiers waved us through them all, but the sight of tanks still turned our heads.
The Roman acropolis is 300 metres long and is one of the largest remaining in the world. The Temple of Bacchus, once buried beneath river mud, is immaculately preserved. Overlooking it, the Temple of Jupiter used to be supported by 56 colossal columns. Six of these, each 22 metres high, have been reconstructed to demonstrate the sheer scale of the complex. The ruins are also lit at night and look truly magnificent. The site is world famous and yet we were the only people there.
The only place to stay in Baalbeck is the Palmyra Hotel, built on top of the original Roman theatre. It is a splendid Nineteenth Century mansion, once visited by the aristocratic tourists of the past. Every room has king size baths and oil stoves for extra heating. A double room will cost you $50US all year round. Victorian style lounges are full of Roman antiquities and history seeps through the walls. Over the New Year period, we were the only guests and the manager, Nicola Sal'ba who has been a tour guide in the Middle East for forty five years recounted endless stories around the fire.
Hotel accommodation is a real problem in the Lebanon (except in Beirut) because most hotels have been destroyed. South of Beirut, Sidon is the third largest city but has no hotels. However, if you continue an hour further south, you will reach the ancient city of Tyre (Sour) near the border. The modern "Elissa Beach Club" is currently the only hotel in town. The Roman ruins include a unique ancient graveyard stretching for a kilometre. This necropolis contains intricately carved tombs which have all been looted but the piles of bones are still visible. There is also an extensive Roman hippodrome with some seating reconstructed.
Beirut is rebuilding itself as a western capital and there is no shortage of facilities, but traffic jams are a real problem. A more pleasant and quieter idea is to drive up into the Chouf Mountains to visit the former presidential Palace at Beiteddine less than an hour away. The state rooms and a remarkable collection of Roman mosaics gathered from around the country make it worth a visit. The area is also full of picturesque villages where clock tower chimes replace the sound of car horns.
Any reservations we may have had about the Lebanon as a holiday destination were quickly dispelled and our guess is that it will become popular again. The locals are very friendly, and one stranger even took us out for dinner to experience the wonderful traditional cuisine. The historical sights are memorable and for the moment, free of tourists. English and French are widely spoken and it is very affordable. Why not pack your earplugs and give it a try before petrol doubles in price to twelve pence a litre!
Fact File:
Visas: You will need a visa to enter the Lebanon. You can either get one upon arrival at Beirut airport or you can write to the Consulate for an application form. It costs £12 (single entry). Contact the Lebanese Consular Section: 15 Palace Gardens Mews, London W8 4QQ. Tel: (0171) 727 6696.
Car Hire You can arrange to rent a car in advance from major rental agencies. As an example Europcar (0345) 222525 offers a Hyundai Accent from Beirut Airport for £159 a week including insurance, unlimited mileage and collision tax. Beirut Airport, the city centre and Tripoli all have a number of rental agencies which can be used if you only want short term rentals. Remember to take your driving licence.
Other Transport There is an excellent and very cheap bus service between the major cities. Beirut to Tripoli (90 mins) for example costs 50p. There are Mercedes Saloon service taxis everywhere where you share rides to destinations. Beirut to Baalbeck for example costs £4 a person (two and a half hours). These taxis exist everywhere.
The Lebanese National Tourist Office has an excellent selection of guides which it will send to you free. Write to Piccadilly 90, London W1. Tel: (0171) 409 2031.