This conversion was harder than i was origanally planning. But that was because I couldn't find anyone who had kept the 1600 engine. So i was in noman's land.
Removing the tranny is self explanatory, read the manual and you should be fine. The only part I didn't pay attention to was that you needed to remove the lower ball joint to unclip the axles from the tranny. (My Manual didn't explain it very well it had said to push the wheels outward. it left out the actual unbolting of the ball joint.)
After removal of the trans-axle you'll need to lift the engine either side by side or pull it out. Install the new bellhousing now. New engine mounts engine mounts can be put in or you can modify the old ones, to accomodate the new bell housing. I slotted the engine mounts on the rear hole, from, the the front of the hole to the rear of the mount. Using a large washer on the bolt to keep the ends from spreading. Here's a picture of that bellhousing and clutch assembly.
The throwout bearing assembly will have to be modified too. Take the throwout bearing assembly out of the old tranny. Along with the retainer springs , I modified the old springs to fit with 2 washers with small holes drilled on the outside edge to clip the springs to. They will be at a funny angle when clipped to the throwout bearing assemly but it is what's needed. The clips that retained the EA81 style throwout bearing needed a bigger surface area to work properly. I wasted a lot of time trying to retro fit the old clips it didn't work well at all. So that's What I came up with, the old springs. this picture is hard to see but you can see the shinny washers in the back of the throwout bearings.
Trans-axle crossmember needed tobe modified too. Since the trans-axle mounts needed to sit a 1/2 inch farther back I just drilled new holes extending the original holes a 1/2 inch further back. It makes it harder to get the mount bolts on and off but a little enginuity it can be and has been done.
Since this Trans-axle was about a 1/2 inch longer to 3/4 of an inch longer I also needed to take an inch off the driveshaft. No problem take it to the local driveline shop and cut off about an inch. In Everett I took it to Drivelines NW. It costs but is needed, The driveshaft then just slips right in place.
After the tranny is in some of the linkage in the center counsel will need to be tweaked. I'm sure some of it would not have been necisary if i fixed the shifter slop problem in the first place. 1st I had to take the 4wd shifter mount off and slot out the holes so that it could be slid back about a 1/2 inch farther. To make enough room for the lever to clear the center council in FWD. After this was achieved I had to redrill and make extensions on the botl holes for all the center council bolts. so i could shift it into 2nd, 4th and reverse, this was necissary mostly due to the extra length of the trans-axle. The BFH came in real handy now to bend the mount for the rear half of the center counsil backwards and level again (to make the e brake part of the center counsil move backwards). Now the clutch cable mount needed to be modified too!! The new one mounted similar to the way it does on the trans-axle. I thought about cutting the mount off the old trans-axle, bending it and bolting it. But instead i found a quick way t orig it that has seemed to work so far. I took the existing clamp tightening it and then craming the washers in the slot on the mount and grinding the side off a washer and slotting it to use as that little spring clip to hold together the little rubber washers. Then to make sure that things stay in the little slot use some bailing wire inbetween the rubber washers wrapped to the slot. a picture to come soon.
I tried to make this as clear and as informative as possible if you have any inquires or questions feel free to e-mail me but no spam mail please!!!!
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