~ CEBU ~

 THE HISTORY OF CEBU IS STEEPED IN DANCES both bloody and business-like, but most of all spiritual. As far back as the 13th century, it is said that the natives on the island of Cebu had already been dancing as a form of tribute to their pagan idols carved of wood and animistc spirits (anitos). Even during this time, Cebu was already a busy bartering hub known throughout Southeast Asia as a place where Chinese, Indonesian, Malaysian and other such traders would come to exchange their varied goods: spices, silks, pottery, precious stones and metals.These traders from many different places would partner on the market floor and make deals in a place that has always been popular for it’s central location, tropical climate, and stubbornly welcoming people.

However, things changed when a Portuguese explorer named Ferdinand Magellan landed on April 7, 1521 to claim the island for Spain and to spread the doctrine of Christianity. He was welcomed with open arms and minds by the reigning Datu, Rajah Humabon and his Queen Hara Amihan (later christened Juana). On April 14, 1521, the first Christian mass was celebrated in the Philippines, marking the conversion of the two leaders, their children, and about 800 Cebuano villagers.

It was here that the intrepid explorer presented the Cebuanos with the image of the child Jesus (El Seņor Sto. Niņo) as a gift to the newly converted people, along with a cross planted along the Cebuano shore (both of which still stand as a historical landmarks today). The little wooden image of the child Jesus and the faith imbued within it replaced the pagan idols as the object of the Cebuanos’ dances of devotion- the origin of the modern day Sinulog, an annual pageantry of faith that gives Cebu an excuse to dress herself up and go wild with a Mardi Gras.

We return to our intrepid explorer’s sad story- ten days after his triumphant mass, on April 27, 1521, he stormed into a dance of death on the offshore island of Mactan, territory of the mighty Lapu-Lapu. Overmatched and undermanned, Magellan and his compatriots were slain by this first of local heroes.

Today, a statue stands as tribute to the power of one man’s pride in his own territory… a lesson in patriotism to this day. It was 44 years later until the the next wave of Spanish conquerors would attempt another (more successful) foray to the Philippines. Based on the reports of the survivors from the last trip, they were optimistic with the willing conversion to Christianity that they had encountered in the first journey. On April 28, 1565, Miguel Lopez de Legaspi landed in Cebu, forcefully taking over the village there and establishing the first Spanish community in the Philippines: the Villa San Miguel.

He established dominion over Raha Humabon’s nephew, Raha Tupas by bombing the village and setting fire to the huts. Out of this dark episode, the mythic power of the Sto. Niņo was further spread. For left undamaged in one of the burning huts was the very image of the Sto. Niņo given to Humabon and Juana by Magellan. This incident triggered the town’s change of name into the Villa Santissimo Nombre de Jesus. Throughout the 1800’s, Cebu maintained its place as an important trading center in the Philippines. It served as a major distribution point for sugarcane, tobacco and hemp as well as for foreign goods that continued to come in. It was also one of the major sanctuaries for the influx of immigrant traders from China and the southern regions of the Philippines as a direct result of its distinctly central location.

The 1900’s have been very good to Cebu. Over this century, it has emerged as a fiercely independent and powerfully contained second capital to the Philippines. The American regime brought with it the country’s best port, which in turn brought the concurrent rise in infrastructure, urbanization, and increasing commerce and industry. Cebu today is a constantly growing city and province in terms of economics and culture. It is also the seat of one of the country’s two Archdioceses, along with being established as the premier commercial hub of anything south of Metro Manila. Through it all, the dance of the Sinulog has been performed year after year to testify the faith and gratitude of the Cebuano people.

Entering into the year 2000, Cebu has not stopped growing. Through crises and depression, it has remained almost untouched in its forward momentum. It has in the past years garnered accolades for being one of the most livable cities in Asia and looks to continue to do so for the foreseeable future. A bustling, cosmopolitan metropolis that nevertheless remains true to its grass roots origins.




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